Henny

eye, John's 16VG60 was mental... I seem to remember that he'd not had it tuned to it's maximum potential either and it still had more to come when he took me out in it.... I'd have loved to do a head to head with his and my G60 when they were both on the road to do a comparison... 8)

Yan? yours has as much, if not more, potential as John's did... keep going, it'll be a beast and be worth it... I ended up doing late night laps of the M60 (got some weird looks from the police and got questioned about it too!) to get the mileage on my car to get it bedded in... :cuckoo:

or get a BIG jubilee clip around it to hold it in place and stop the rattle... ;)

black metal squared hoops about 2" wide and 10" apart coming out of where the base meets the back? Sounds like Iso-fix baby seat fittings to me...

Bit like these? (yup, quick google there for you... ;) )

I need to get a replacement Hella lens for my passenger side indicator, it's a 92 G60 so presume it's the late model. Where would I get one and does anyone know the part no?

'92 G60 could still be either type... if it's flush like the one above, then it's a late one, if it sits further into the bumper, and has a round black cover in the top inner corner, then it's an early one...

You can't buy just the lens, and if it's a late one, it'll also come complete with the black plastic surround that the fog lamp clips into too... :|

I can't help with where to get them from as I've not bought any bits for my car in three years as it's not moved in that time... :(

yup, my 1940cc G60 was crap compared to before I rebuilt it for the first 1500 or so miles... then I got it mapped properly and could give it some beans and, whoooaaaaa momma, it was better, ooooohhhhh so much better!

Keep at it Yan, it's sound engineering you've done there and it should give you some very good power once it's bedded in and set up fully.... 8)

your front wings need adjusting to get the grill in... have you tried placing the bonnet (very, very, very carefully!) into location yet? Bet that the panel gap down the sides is closer at the front than at the rear... ;)

Grill should sit out further at the top than at the bottom, so that's pretty normal...

Nice looking project this... 8) although a white engine is gonna be an utter **** to keep clean! :eek: You could get an under-tray from a GTD MKII Golf which'd stop road crud getting into the bay and keep it somewhat cleaner though... ;)

refitting them, in my experience, involves liberal use of Araldite.... ;)

...there's a how-to on here somewhere on changing the resistor values in the control box to make it raise/lower at whatever speed you want it to... :wink:

Are you not able to get hub centric spacers for the rear to push the hub out by the extra? I know it's common on fords...

Stretch? I think you've got your wires crossed a little there... Hub centric spacers are just normal wheel spacers which center themselves on the original wheel hub... What you're talking about on Fords is actually spacing the HUB out from the axle by putting in a plate between the part of the axle the hub bolts onto and the hub itself...

That'd work at the rear, but not at the front...

do you mean that the windows and mirrors NEVER work? If so, try opening the drivers door and seeing if the windows will work from the switch... if not, it sounds to me like you've got a broken earth somewhere or a connector off the back of the fusebox...

Would it also be ok to use some blobs of clear silicone?

Silcone's basically the same stuff, just Sikaflex is much, much stickier! (and tends to be black)

Yeah, big blobs, or multiple layers (build it up so it'll make contact) of silicone sealant will hold it on too... 8)

*cough* Sikaflex *cough* :grin:

 

I've got some superstrong double sided for the bottom, but there's nowhere to attach the top portion of the plinth as such.

You're not using enough... ;) BIG blobs work well... ;) :geek:

what colour is mine midnight blue?

 

That's Aqua blue pearl matey... 8)

yup, sounds like the switch to me... what's scaryest is when you turn the engine off at the key and it keeps running... :shock:

*cough* Sikaflex *cough* :grin:

the reason I did mine was 'cos the dreaded tin-worm had gotten in behind the middle VW badge, so I thought, "well, if I'm getting rid of that one, I may as well have the three holes for the Corrado badge removed too"...

I kinda figured that if I get bored, I can always just stick the Corrado badge back on again with some sikaflex after removing the three lugs off the back... I still really like it now, and I'm glad I left the seams in as I feel that it breaks up the rear a little and stops it looking a little too rounded/flush...

bugger, sorry, I got that wrong...

I debadged and de-wipered the back of mine, but kept the seams...

as far as im aware that all thats been done to the car. All the work done was by the previous owner. I havent got alot of cash so turbo would be way out of my price range but i was hoping to get it to around 250 bhp without to much major costs. Ill look into those things you have mentioned though

 

thanks

As someone who's just sold off their 252bhp G60 engine (still one of the most powerful yet built), keep hoping... 250ish BHP out of a G60 without too much cost simply isn't possible, sorry... :? (unless you run a silly small pulley and rebuild the charger lots!)

Your best bet is to find out exactly what has been done to your car so far, and build on that... Getting more power out of the G60 engine is all about getting it to breath better... gas-flowing the inlet tract (manifold, throttle body and charger) helps, but won't do much on it's own. A free flowing exhaust manifold will help lots (the standard one is quite restrictive). A more aggressive cam will boost power too...

After that, you're onto head work and/or capacity increase, both of which don't tend to be cheap... :?

Robg60? That's gonna be a good combination if you've got a decent map for it... I reckon that'll be at the 250bhp mark with similar torque too! sounds very much like my old engine spec... 8)

Henny

 

The earth strap is aliitle green etc.

 

Where is the best place for a replacement?

 

Cheers

Have you checked that's the cause by using a jumper cable as I suggested? If it's no better with a jumper cable between the battery -ve and the gearbox end of the strap, then that's not your problem... ;)

Best place to get a replacement is VW... they're not horrifically expensive - I think the last one I bought was about £30 inc VAT, but that was a few years ago now...

..and now you've got it, I'd bet that you could do it again in just a couple of minutes, no? ;)

It's definitely a knack that you have to learn rather than one that can be explained... :? :lol:

Glad you got in though... now take the handle off the door and get busy with the plus gas and white grease so it doesn't happen again! ;) 8)

they're the engine codes for the 20VT engines...

a G60 is a PG engine (or a 1H if it came out of a rallye) a 1.8 16V like in your Corrado is a KR....

Every different type of engine has a different engine code, it's the first 2 (or more recently 3) letters of the engine number that's printed on the block... 8)

what exactly is the problem? If it's a problem with the key not turning, or the steering lock being a pain, then it's a new barrel... if it's mainly electrical related (ie a pain to start, not turning things on/off as you'd expect) then it's probably the switch...

it's bonded plastic... as far as I know it's not possible to dismantle it without the aid of a hammer, but that kind of defeats the object if you're wanting to use it again... :roll:

I suppose some very careful use of a dremmel may get one into re-usable separate parts, but you'd have to have a much steadier hand than I have... :scrambleup:

Passat B5s actually have a green filter inside the light housing to make the red rear lights shine orange, so the theory is definitely sound... ;) (I know this as I've just had to change one of my rear lights on my 'ssat after reversing into a BMW... :censored: )

HOWEVER, The trick is that they have some very thin clear strips in the outer plastic to let some unfiltered light out too... This means you have a mix of:

pure white light (the filter isn't all the way around the bulb) + red coloured plastic

green light + red coloured plastic

White light + CLEAR plastic (but not a lot!)

green light + CLEAR plastic

This gives you a nice orange light when viewed from anything more than about 12 inches away from the light unit...

With a completely red coated rear light, I'm not sure how you'd do it, as you need some green light to escape without going through the red filter along with the red light to be able to mix them and make the orange you require by law... :shrug:

I can see a high brightness orange LED based bulb working though, as it should simply over-power the red filter... whether it'd be road legal though is a different question... :shrug: