Henny

nope, it's a cut and weld job... :?

if you're after high power from a 20VT, the engine codes you're looking for are:

APY - Audi S3 98-01

AMK - Seat Leon Coupra R and Audi S3 02-03

APX - Audi TT 98-00

BAM - Audi S3, TT and Seat Leon Coupra R 00-05

BFV - Audi TTs 05-06

all of these have K04 turbos, are as standard 200+ bhp and can be mapped to over 270bhp with no other modifications... (these are on a post-it note stuck to my monitor just in case one comes up cheap!) 8)

Like I say, I've been researching engine transplants a lot recently... ;) :lol:

yeah, The earth strap gets cold and damp over night which will make it more resistive, these same conditions also effect the crank sensor... If it were the starter switch, I'd normally expect it to be awkward to start at random times, not just the first of the day...

sounds like you're going about it the right way then... research, research, and more research! :grin:

Work out what it is you want to achieve from the car and that'll help you work out which engine you want to put in, or if it's going to be more simple/effective to sell up and buy one that's already got the engine you want (if you were considering a VR6 or G60 swap for example)... don't forget though, that by doing an engine transplant, you can make the car more difficult to insure, and also more difficult to sell on afterwards with some transplants... something that's always worth thinking about... ;) 8)

Good luck with it anyway, whichever way you decide to go... 8)

is your earth strap (from the battery to the chassis and onto the gearbox) white and powdery with some green bits on it instead of a nice clean copper coloured? Could be that your earth strap is going high resistance...

Simple check is to put a jumper cable (just one!) between the negative of the battery and where that strap attaches to the gearbox mount before you try to start it in the morning... if it starts perfectly, then you need a new earth strap... :)

yup, that's the bunny...

yeah, Kev, there was also a Type R Turbo powered MKII Golf kicking around Manchester a while back that was just silly, and then there's the Blackbird powered RWD MKI golf that was at Ed38 a few years back, now THAT was an engine transplant to talk about.... 8) :cuckoo: :luvlove:

By and large, any engine can be fitted to any car as long as it'll physically fit into the engine bay... and even if it doesn't, it's possible to modify the car enough to make it fit in most cases! Look at how Awesome GTI did the first MKI Golf VR6, he actually extended the front wings and bonnet to make the bay long enough to fit the engine in! :cuckoo: :notworthy: Hell, there was a 2CV around our way that some nutter had put a Rover V8 into! :cuckoo: :gag: :shock:

Which engine for an engine swap? well... how talented are you, how much time have you got, and how much money do you have? :?

Sensibly, you can pretty much go for:

1.8 G60 (Corrado, Golf G60, Passat G60 or Rallye Golf... 8) )

1.8 20VT (Audi, Skoda or VW - easy wiring kits available from the likes of QPEng taking the engines upto around 270bhp depending on the base engine)

2.8 or 2.9 VR6 (VW, Golf, Corrado, Passat or Sharan or Ford Galaxy - wiring should be pretty much plug'n'play, but you may need to change suspension and wheels)

V6 24V (VW Golf and others - See VR6 notes and add in some tricky wiring)

VW R32/Audi 3.2 (again, see VR6 notes and add in some tricky wiring)

1.9 TDI (VW non-PD engines - remarkably easy swap and can be modded upto 220ish BHP with silly torque with only a little know how)

1.9 TDI (VW/Audi/Skoda PD engine - wiring's a bit of tricky, but can be modded upto 200ish BHP with silly torque and silly fuel economy, just as Supercharged about his...)

Less sensibly and more of a challenge;

2.0 TFSI (Audi, Skoda or VW, the wiring's a bit of a pig as nobody makes an aftermarket kit yet, so you need to stay OEM wiring, but upto 300bhp is easily available depending on the base engine, although I've not seen a Corrado with one in yet)

1.4 TSI engine (VW Golf GT, Scirroco GT - Twin charged (Turbocharger AND Supercharger!) direct injection petrol engine giving 207bhp after a simple remap with upto 45MPG! never been done as far as I know so far)

Anything that's not a VAG engine that you feel would be fun... I've heard of and seen Rover V8s, TVR V8s, Ford/Cosworth Turbo lumps, even the odd Porsche 944 engine being used in MKII golfs, which are essentially the same engine bay size as a Corrado so would be no more difficult to do, as I said before, how silly do you wanna go?!? :cuckoo: :lol:

White Corrado G60 around Congleton (saw it in Morrisons carpark!)... seemed to have a V6 badge on the back, but was deffo a G60 (4stud wheels, and I'd know that noise anywhere! :wink: )

did you get anywhere with it?

Have you sourced an engine then Henny (or a complete front end would probably be a better idea)?

Nope, just playing with ideas at the moment... I have a contact who's looking for a complete, heavily rear ended or side impacted, cat B write off for me though... I'll probably end up using 90% of the wiring loom, the accelerator pedal and 90% of the engine bay components to get it to run... Depending on which vehicle I end up with depends on which Dash I end up using... I'd like to keep the interior reasonably standard (with mild tweaks, like the outside) so she's a bit of a sleeper from the outside...

I've yet to contact an insurance company to see what sort of premium it'd attract, but I can see the conversation being interesting... "you've put a 1.4 into a Corrado, and you reckon it's now kicking 210bhp +?!? " :cuckoo: :grin: :lol:

As cooling is critical for these, what about a charger cooler Henny?

Could be an idea... but I'd rather use NO2 or water injection, and I've already got a nice big intercooler.... :norty:

Kev the turbo and supercharger have an overlap period in the RPM range but the screwcharger is basically on an air con electromagnetic pulley.

 

As for initial charger running it still uses a boost bypass flap to prevent overboost under load.

 

I do agree the turbo on the stock engine is a little too small, that's one of the reasons why the torque curve drops off so dramatically towards the higher revs, it just does not breathe enough air. You should be able to fit a larger screwcharger too so the potential to get some silly numbers with a nice flat torque curve from a 1.4l block is there.

From what I've read, the main limiting factor at the moment is letting the engines breath, and , more urgently, getting the charge cool enough... The standard intercooler/s on the Touran and Golf GTs are pants... the Golf G60 intercooler on my 'rado should improve things considerably, plus the fact I don't need to run a cat in the exhaust, should mean for a lot easier breathing from the engine, hopefully making more power... if all else fails, I'll just put on a smaller pulley to the charger and a bigger turbo keeping it at 1.4 then a monster remap session! :cuckoo: :nuts: :lol:

Kev? This'd be the first non-corrado engine this car'd have had... I want to modernise the engine and running gear a little to make more use of the newer technology and the G60s are, IMHO, becoming a little long in the tooth... I love the Corrado to bits (you may have noticed! :lol: ) but I just feel it needs something a little newer under the bonnet, and I'm not a big fan of the 1.8 20VT or the 2.0TFSI engine... and she's not a V6, so that only leaves a few other alternative power sources, the 170bhp 1.4 twincharged being one that should satisfy a lot of what I want out of a car... and trust me, if I don't like it when I've done it, I'll sell the engine and stick something else in it, not sell the car! ;) Oh, and she's not got (and won't be getting!) ABS or traction control, so no fear of the ECU sh!tting itself and pulling back on the power... ;) :norty:

mattnorgrove, ever had a look at a gasket and then placed it over the item it's going to seal up? notice that you can see metal through the gasket? The gaskets are produced to the blueprint specifications of the engine design, the metal castings have a large tolerance around that size so tend to have smaller oil, water and air ways going through them than the actual engine design allows for... Blue-printing an engine basically means making sure that all of the castings are to the exact spec of the design... it's sometimes known as gasket-matching too as, in effect, what you're doing is making sure that the holes in the gaskets line up perfectly either side with the things they're sealing... It should make for an engine which runs cooler, more efficiently and more powerfully than the standard, mass-produced item would do due to their large differences in castings... B)

I'm yet to find one of these engines, but I'm now on the lookout... I can feel a test-drive of a new one coming up on the cards shortly though, just to see what they're like in their natural standard habitat! :wink: :norty:

damnit... you guys are too quick... :brickwall: :grin: I thought it'd be a bit longer until you sussed that out... :?

Gareth_16V seems to have been first to guess it: 170bhp version of the 1.4TFSI twin-charged engine is the way I'm thinking of going...

only I may then do some other things to it... :nuts: I'm thinking of upping it to 1.6, using the G60 intercooler (the standard ones are, apparently, pants) and, as I said above, going to town with the blueprinting stick...

I reckon that with that little lot, it should be good for around 250bhp, 350Nm torque and at least 40mpg! :shock: 8)

Anyone know if anybody out there has done anything like this before? :shrug:

Right, so, I've kinda been sat around thinking "what can I do to make my Corrado a little bit special once again, but this time with some decent fuel economy and reliability, yet still plenty of grin making potential"... :shrug:

I've been playing with the idea of all sorts of engines, but I think I've just made up my mind having seen the remap graph attached below... This is from a standard VW Engine, in a standard bay, with standard plugs, oil and paper filter that's just had a remap...

So, the point of this thread is to ask this question... Looking at the graph, and bearing in mind I'd pretty easily get another 10 to 20 horses outta it with some other tweaks I'd be doing (I'd be stripping and blue-printing/porting/polishing/gas-flowing/lightening EVERYTHING! :cuckoo: :help: ) before going onto messing with any forced induction stuff, do you reckon this'd be any good in a Corrado mated to a 6 speed 02S box? :shrug:

Oh, and I'm not going to tell you what it is yet... It could be the first of it's kind if I can find one and pull off the conversion.. :lol:

Thanks for that, I did replace a tail light bulb the other day with one I had laying about, so that may well of caused it. I'll take a look at lunch!

 

:)

 

 

Incorrectly fitted bulb i think causes that. Not sure why :lol:

The badly fitted/incorrect bulb tries to earth through the live of the sidelights when the brakes are pressed... this allows power to get to the front sidelights, thus illuminating them, all be it at a lower level than when they're on properly...

lever goes DOWN, not up... ;) you're not trying to unlock the door, you're trying to replicate the exterior door handle releasing after it's been opened...

If you can get it off without damaging it, it may be worth trying to take off the outer rubber seal and then spraying WD40/plusgas down towards the mechanism...

If you lived closer to Congleton, I'd pop over and sort it as I've become a dab hand at doing this as the one on my Corrado has done it a few times over the last 3 years while it's been stationary... :roll:

nah, the roof itself isn't designed to seal, hence the water guide plates down the sides... the seal around the panel is just to keep wind noise down when it's closed... If it's leaking, it's either a blocked, kinked or badly fitted drain tube... (or the guide plates are full of leaf crud which is stopping the water draining?)

the tubes coming off the mechanism are plastic... if you can get the whole sunroof unit out, then it'd be reasonably easy to plastic weld back on and then gunk over the outside with Silicone sealant to reseal it...

sounds to me like your drains are blocked... there's a rubber/plastic pipe in each corner of the roof mechanism which run down the A and C pillars... if these get squished or blocked at the bottom ends, then any water collected on the water guides around the edge of the mechanism has nowhere to go, so leaks into the car...

*EDIT* Ah, someone's suggested blocked drains... have you had the roof lining out to check that the pipes aren't squished?

The door not opening problem is common on VWs...

What's happened is that the mechanism that the exterior door handle presses on to open the door has become stuck half way... this means that you can't lift the inner lock catch, and can't turn the key... you get the same effect when some muppet passenger tries to open the door while you're unlocking it, the lock won't operate while the handle is pulled out...

To rectify it is pretty easy, get a steel ruler and gently put it between the outside of the glass and the outer window rubber above the door lock... feed it down gently until it's approximately above the lock on the exterior door handle.... now mash it around a shed load in the hope that you're going to hit the correct part of the lock mechanism... :nuts:

Sounds mad, I know, but it DOES work...

Once you've hit the correct bit of the mechanism, it'll move it back to it's proper resting place and allow you to unlock the door with either the key, or by pulling the interior lock pull. IMMEDIATELY you've got the door open, take the external door handle off and spray the door mechanism with white grease, then activate the mechanism in every way with your finger through the hole until there's no tight spots. Put the door handle back on again and you're sorted... one fully working, unlocking door... :)

That's a late G60, so the bonnet is correct for that car.... you'll also find that it has more flared wheel arches than earlier cars (both front and rear) and that you have the later bumpers and front fogs/indicators and that your headlamps also sit flush with the front grille (which is a 5 slat grille rather than having more slats).... All standard on a J-Plate G60, so nothing to worry about there... 8)

Looks like a nice straight Aqua Blue G60 to me... shame to hear it's a Cat C, but if it's been repaired properly, there's no reason it shouldn't be a good 'un... :D

I'd love to see one in AUDI Condor Grey (pearl)... we've an Audi A3 cabrio in it and it'd look stunning on a 'rado... beautifully understated colour that'd show off the lines and angles on a 'rado to their best...

Couple that with some subtle body mods (no side repeaters, stick 'em in the mirrors, frenched in rear high level brake light, debadged etc....) and you'd be onto a winner in my eyes... :)

Thats where i plan to mount mine when the time comes!

 

What was the temp like on normal driving??

On my mk2 its front mounted in air flow and i only get above 76 if in traffic or at idle,bit low for my liking!!

 

Car is only used for normal daily driving so thinking of blocking half the cooler to see if i can get the temp between 80 and 90 :D

umm, difficult to compare as mine was fitted to my 1940cc 252bhp lump! I did have a thermo take off plate in there though, so it would still warm up to around 85 but very rarely get over that unless I was giving it death... sounds like you either don't have a thermo plate on there, or the thermo in it has jammed open if you're not getting it over 80 degrees..

earth strap from battery to chassis to gearbox.... they get corroded over time and become more resistive with heat... this is how the starter gets it's earth,so if it's resistive then it won't be getting a true 12V at the starter and won't be able to spin the engine fast enough for it to fire up...

To test this theory, connect a jump lead (just one!) from the battery earth directly to the earth point on the gearbox mount when it's refusing to start... if it now starts, you know where the problem is... ;)