Henny

if you're having problems with it taking forever for the water to get to your rear washer, you need to fit a one-way-valve into the pipe to the rear washer just by the washer bottle and one just before the boot lid... this will stop the water draining back out of the pipe between uses and mean that it's a lot quicker for the water to get out of the pipe when used... :)

mine was sat where the original G60 intercooler is supposed to sit, just behind the bumper and in front of the passenger side wing... I've even used the original shroud/air-guide to feed the air onto the cooler and out into the wheel arch... 8)

Knocked the temps right down, and on a 140mph thrash at Bruntingthorpe the oil temps never went over 120c... :D

Oh, and never had any problems with it rusting either as I used Stainless steel to mount it and made sure that any parts on the cooler that could have rusted were painted first before fitting... :)

Or get a huge jubilee clip (or join 2) and wrap that round the cat and shield and do up tight.

 

 

this is the right idea, did exactly this to my VR highline years ago, only because i couldnt be arsed to rip the thing off mind..

Yup, did this on my valver waaaaayyyy back in the day (circa 1998!) and to my G60 before I got silly with rebuilding her... B)

A pillars aren't listed on VAG-CAT as such... I think the closest part is part 4 (or possibly part 1) on the diagram below... :|

It should be according to Chassis number looking at Vag-Cat... So VW should be able to tell you which one you need if you give them your chassis number...

Personally, I can't see why there'd be a difference having had a G60 either side of the cut-off chassis number, so I think either would work....

(30) 536721555 accelerator cable / F >> 50-S-004 000* rhd / PG,KR,9A,2E

(30) 536721555D accelerator cable / F 50-S-004 001>>* rhd / PG,KR,9A,2E, ADY

It also lists this one too... :?

(30) 536723555 accelerator cable rhd / PG,KR,9A,2E

Oh, and don't forget to order part (11) on their diagram 191721559 bush/ manual gearbox

This is the rubber bush that goes through the throttle pedal which the cable sits in... if these go soggy (which they do over time) then the throttle cable just falls out every now and then which can be very embarrassing and potentially dangerous...

i always thought taking the pipe off between charger and airbox was the best way to tell.

Check the pipe between the airbox and the charger won't show you anything... That's where air's being pulled INTO the charger from the airbox before it can go near any oil! You need to check the pipework where the air going through has already been THROUGH the charger to pick up any oil being leaked!

could be... take the boost pipe off where it connects to the charger and see if it's got more than a very light coating of oil in it... if it has then it's likely the charger oil seals are on their way out... If not, then I very much doubt it's the charger, and it's more likely to be rings or valve seals/guides...

Airlock?

That'd be where my bet would go too... ;)

interesting... :)

Mid-engined V10? :notworthy: Do it!!!!

it'll probably end up being a daily driver when it's done (again) so the engine will be somewhere sensible, probably in the front... :lol:

My guess is a 20v ITB's

ugh, no, not ITBs... not my style at all... :?

Twin charged 1.4 maybe :?

That's on the list, but not as a 1.4! :nuts:

the 2.5 TTRS engine? :eek:

That's one that's way up top of the list... :norty:

could also be that the level sensor in the expansion tank has given up due to the overheating... (yes, I've suffered that myself... :roll: )

no... this one's under-wraps until I work out what I'm doing 100%.... I'll be documenting it all and will post up after I've done it all, but I don't want any pressure with this build, or any expectiations... I also don't want to give anything away until it's done, as it's possible this may be a UK first... 8) (although with the time scales I may be looking at, I doubt it will be... :roll: :lol: )

right, well, that's the 1940cc engine and supercharger sold... :help:

So, what's next for the engine bay? Well, she's going to get a damned good clean and a bit of a paint work touch-up in there over the next few months as it wasn't done when the car was re-sprayed, and then it's time to find a new engine and gearbox to put in there... what's going in there? :shrug: I dunno yet, but I've a few ideas.. :ignore: :norty:

and as for basic good value tool kits, try the Halfords Pro 150 piece briefcase type kit... My mate has one and it's excellent for most things...

to really clean one up takes quite a bit of work...

Obvious things to remove are the carbon cannister (as you mention) and the boost return pipe which does free up quite a bit of space over the bell housing area, and, if you use a couple of small filters on the breather and ISV, it'll neaten up the cam cover too...

Adding in a front mount intercooler using something like a Rallye/Golf G60 U-Bend charger outlet will neaten up the front of the bay by removing the "big black leaky boxy charger outlet"© and neatly tucking the pipework back under the charger out of sight.

A slim line aftermarket fan saves a shed load of space by the radiator and are usually more efficient/effective than the standard fan too (12" one fits nicely on a G60 with just a couple of brackets needing to be made up). This also gets rid of the big metal fan cowling which really does neaten up the front of the bay...

Then it's a case of tidying up the loom and making sure everything's clipped in properly where it's supposed to go to tidy up the rest of the bay...

You could at that point go a bit more mad and start trying to hide the loom, move the battery to the boot and smooth things off, it just depends how mad you wanna go... 8)

Hope your not putting a 20vt in there Henny!

 

AJ

Maybe, but I've got a better idea if I can get hold of the engine and box I want... :norty: She won't be powered by a G60 anymore though... :? Need something that'll be more reliable and the G-laders are all getting a bit long in the tooth now... and after having one with 252bhp, I've done the "nervous twitch every time the engine makes an odd noise" thing :pale: enough now and want more power, so it's gonna be a different engine this time...

wow! :eek:

Hats off to you matey.... that's some task you've taken on and you seem to be both enjoying it, and doing it right! 8)

I think you are stark raving mad :cuckoo: but in a seriously good way! :notworthy:

I'll be following this thread with interest as this car is something a little special... Keep up the good work... 8)

It would be good to see his on the move again.

Yeah, I agree! :lol: The bodywork has held up well, and I've cleaned her every now and then to make sure that any moss/crud that builds up on things that are just sat around doesn't get a hold and damage stuff... So far the only bit that's showing signs of any problems is a spot (about the size of a 5p) on the tailgate which has been slightly scratched at some point and has now started to blister slightly... :(

Once I get an engine and gearbox back in her, she should be good to MOT and go! :)

Just need to decide what engine and gearbox to put in, save up for it and get them bought and rebuilt.... :shrug: :grin: :ignore:

Ooh, I hadn't realised I'd not updated this thread in ages... :roll: :tumbleweed:

She's not moved in over 2 years now (and that was only after we moved house so she was towed to her new driveway!)

I've since sold the gearbox and top end of the engine... We then discovered that the cause of the engine problems was the valve springs... several of which had snapped, hence her running perfectly when first started and getting worse once revved as the valves then failed to seal... :brickwall: Should have been a quick and cheap fix, but I never managed to get the time to find this fault...

Anyway, I'm hoping that over the next 18 months or so that I'll be spending some time and money on her to get her back onto the road again... I'll update when there's some news... 8)

what software is that you're running on the PC? Looks quite good...

I bought a pair from Matalan a few years ago for £5 each (the boxes were water damaged, but the contents were sealed into a plastic bag!)...

Worked really well and didn't mess my leather up either... I planned on stripping the seats down and installing them between the foam and the leather so that I had heated leather seats...

The only problem I found using them on top of leather was that they tended to slip around a little, so you really had to make sure you attached them properly... 8)

GSF have them on the shelf...

43806B STUB AXLE-REAR LH CO 9/88 > Rear Disc Brakes 42.50

43806D STUB AXLE-REAR RH CO 9/88 > Rear Disc Brakes 42.50

And don't forget to ask for your Corrado Forum Discount (should be in the region of 10%... ;) ) 8)

When Sam had it built it was said to have a C/R of 9.5:1... but no-one's ever actually proven that...

Mine had (before I sold the head!) a C/R of 9:1 and I had no problems with the compression ratio... Oh, and Race Power essentially built the bottom end of my engine too as JMR commissioned them to do the work to his spec when I got him to build the original 1940cc lump for me... (it's since been rebuilt twice for various reasons, and is about to be rebuilt again around a PG block instead of a 1H one! :cuckoo: )

Ah ace, will be a lot easier to diagnose then! Will give that a shot!

 

Was just battling with my o/s headlights middle screw. Its turned to a pile of rust :lol:

They do that... I have a special long drill bit now that's long enough to drill through the hole in the slam panel and take the head off the screw... :roll: :lol: