coullstar

Yeah I always go with same front to rear then you can rotate wheel if need be. Make sure to double check regards wheel design, if they are really dished then it might be close. What wheels are you looking at?

You'll be fine with 7.5 or 8x17 between 35-30mm offset running 205/40/17 tyres.

Try the engine first and take it from there, if its goosed then swap makes sense but Id be looking at another VR or 4mo and spend the money on lightening, suspension and brakes. That's the bits that really make a difference on track. I tracked my old VR6T and a relatively standard one and they don't understeer as bad as you think. You could argue the lump gives better traction. Std VR6 gearing is rubbish for the track though.

If it were me Id just get an oil cooler, baffle sump, fiberglass bonnet/boot, lighten interior then brakes and suspension and see how that goes before going all out as it sounds like a pain doing full conversion. You might enjoy yourself enough. Then look at lower FD in gearbox and few other little tweaks. Power isn't everything on track and higher power 20vt's will need progressive boost to stop front wheels spinning up coming out slower corners.

Well a little progress on this. I was away last week on holiday so I had a Sachs clutch kit fitted. There were some of the usual internal gearbox wear with selector fork etc so had that all replaced as well along with new gearbox oil. At the same time the thermostat and fan switch were done along with a CV boot. Managed to give it a run over the last couple of days and its much better. Still need to get it up on stands and clean/coat underneath along with having a good poke around. I think rear suspension needs adjusted as it is a little unstable on right hand bends, maybe rear bushes have gone. Garage complimented me on the overall condition and got a couple more chufties today so happy with it. Some pics of my own, not very good Im afraid.

Has anyone done this? Been let down by various people on this so might try it myself as I know someone with vagtacho. Also wheres best to get spare bare keys with transponder?

Who's doing it and are they familiar with these engines? It not too hard from what Ive seen but few check to follow to make sure its all perfect.

Doing it yourself or getting someone else? Im getting clutch replaced and was thinking about chain etc as Im at the same mileage but decided just to go for clutch as Ive just got the car. I'll inspect the top tensioner at some point and make that decision later. If mine goes I'll get another engine and do chains etc at that point. Maybe that's the best thing to do if you can, inspect the top tensioner to see what its like and make a decision from there. My old car had 136k miles on it with original tensioner and there was minimal wear. I know other bits break but when was the last time you heard of someones engine detonating due to the chains and tensioner giving up? Are you intending on keeping it or have the cash ready to do chains? If so then might be an idea to do it but look at bigger picture and decide if its really worth it.

Ace, I think I would have been divorced before married if Id suggested including any of the car in the photos....lol. That a lie actually the one car my wife has mentioned about showing any sort of affection is the previous and hopefully current Corrado.

Okay if it's the same as mine I'll take it.

Any visible damage? How much you wanting for it? I need to double check mine to see if its the same as I believe there are some slight differences.

Lol, thought so. It will be whatever the last one came with.

Is that not the brake master? Im looking for the clutch master i.e. the one that attaches to the brake pedal.

With gear wheels as well?

I'll get in touch if or when it's swapped out.

Decided to just go for new Sachs clutch kit and run the car for a while. Bought a new slave cyl and will get a master refurbed. Changing out thermostat as well. Had to get another headunit as the one that came with it was goosed. Found some Redline gear oil in the garage so will get that swapped out when box is off.

Mmm don't know. One for my car, 95 reg. Didn't realise there is a difference. Going to get it refurbed and replace slave at the same time.

As above, anyone got one for sale?

Just wondering if the current situation is still best to get the master cylinder refurbed by Pastparts? Im going new clutch so will fit slave and new master as well or refurb if that's better.

Just thinking if the ABS light and clutch slipping is linked. Been a while since I looked at the system so maybe clutch slave or master cylinder is faulty. Bite point is almost as pedal is fully out and it judders initially.

I wasnt expecting anything perfect, no car this age will be. Its just frustrating that it will potentially be a big bill straight away and to me its fairly obvious its was starting to go. Chance I took buying this way and I totally accept that. Where's best for chain kits now? Ive seen a few on ebay but obviously wary of the components.

I should really but I'll inspect the top tensioner and see what its like. Don't really have time to do it myself at the moment so it might just be a local indy for quick clutch swap. Annoyed that there was no mention of clutch during the deal, even if it was mentioned I wouldn't be s bothered. Just leave me feeling what else is hidden. Oh and ABS light is coming on now as well. Should have bought a Mk5 Gti afterall..................

Well looks like I'll be doing clutch sooner rather than later ...

Thanks, look good for £100 if doing a DIY refurb. Think I'll leave them though and concentrate on getting the new car right for now.

Yeah thats the one. Brought it to work this morning so 20mile a-road commute. Definitely changing the thermostat out, it barely ran above 70deg. Rear spoiler is sticky so need to sort that and stereo has no sound so all in all small issues. It felt tight for the age and runs well enough. Don't think there much life left in the clutch though but I suppose when doing that it will give me a chance to do chains etc.