dr_mat

The book states it can use up to 1l/1000km, like all car handbooks; it's not a good sign to use a lot but the cost of a fix is very high, so you need to be sure it's what you want to do before going that way. Sent from my ONEPLUS A3003 using Tapatalk

Actually cheaper than VW! Sent from my ONEPLUS A3003 using Tapatalk

How many miles per month? Sent from my ONEPLUS A3003 using Tapatalk

More likely it's more accurate than the speedo... ;) Sent from my ONEPLUS A3003 using Tapatalk

Mine was doing less than this for the last few years. This year I've done a couple of thousand in the last two months.. but it's back to "resting" again now as I've got a daily driver to take the strain.. Sent from my ONEPLUS A3003 using Tapatalk

Is it Carcoat Damphands? Sent from my ONEPLUS A3003 using Tapatalk

Anyone able to scan it? Sent from my ONEPLUS A3003 using Tapatalk

They do sound different. The equal length intake runners do remove some of the off beat grumble in the midrange, but the extra torque there more than makes up for it when you're driving. The VGI doesn't have equal length runners so probably sounds more or less the same as stock, but I've not heard one so not sure really.

Well, I've also seen standard VR6s hit a mere 185 bhp. It's not an exact science without an engine-out dyno run on a properly calibrated machine so it really depends what you consider "proven" nunbers. You can feel the difference between a good one and a bad one.

I forget whose car it was, but yes it was dynoed at 245 or thereabouts. It wasn't just throttle body it also had cams and a few other bits of work. I wouldn't be so sceptical, I've also seen totally unmodified engines hit 207bhp with all the standard engine smoothness and rock solid idle that entails. Small turbo is a nice compromise, you can pad out the torque in the low to mid range and gain a little up top with minimal other modifications required. But it still costs you several thousand quid. If you're going to turbo it at all, you would feel like it's not worth it unless you hit 275-300 bhp, considering the costs involved. Sent from my ONEPLUS A3003 using Tapatalk

I think there are plenty of options. I've heard of cars with a big throttle body and polished and ported inlets hitting 245 bhp without forced induction, for example, but to go beyond this you would need more CCs or forced induction, which starts at a couple of grand.. Sent from my ONEPLUS A3003 using Tapatalk

Impressive what you can get out of a VR6 actually. Even on OBD1 I managed to get 37 mpg one time. Only once. More recently I'm seeing a good number off 33s and 34s. Sent from my ONEPLUS A3003 using Tapatalk

I would be surprised if 5mpg out is anything other than "to specifications". It's a relatively old design so I really wouldn't expect it to be accurate. Even bang up to date systems are rarely reliable within 10% or so. Sent from my ONEPLUS A3003 using Tapatalk

Correct. So if the injector is on for, say, 5 ms, then in theory it delivers X amount of fuel. Though a quick bout of Wikipedia reading shows that the CIS system uses variable pressure fuel distribution instead of individual switched fuel injectors - but the principal of computing the fuel delivery is the same. High pressure for X ms means Y amount of fuel delivered via the injectors. I was just trying to say that the ECU does have some sort of notion of how much fuel is delivered, so the maths can work, but I would be incredibly surprised if there was a user-adjustable correction factor. Obviously the assumptions inside the ECU only work if nothing major changes on the engine - so if you install high flow injectors, or radically alter the diameter of the maf without also recalibration of the ECU then although it will still get fuelling right (if it has a lambda) it will no longer be able to figure out the true mpg.

It's fuel injected, therefore it has injector timing...

There is a fudge factor in the firmware that is supposed to translate average injector timing to fuel use, then divide by miles driven. This self calibrates to some extent as the ECU is busy balancing the readings from the maf against the reported fuel/air ratio from the lambda. But as individual engines flow better or worse than others it's never exact. Sent from my ONEPLUS A3003 using Tapatalk

And yet, admiral were charging me £230/yr on the VR6 with modifications included. That's now dropping to about £120/yr on a classic policy as I'm going mutlicar. Sent from my ONEPLUS A3003 using Tapatalk

Even late VR6s are now over 20 years old, so are being offered classic insurance. I am going to put a toe in the system as we speak.. Sent from my ONEPLUS A3003 using Tapatalk

Funnily enough Admiral just told me they will do an agreed value policy on the VR as it's over 20 years old now. Price is likely to be around £100 for the year. Anyone have experience of getting the value agreed and what price range they are looking at?

Yes but it shouldn't come from there unless the exhaust has a leaky joint. Sent from my ONEPLUS A3003 using Tapatalk

It's worth replacing the engine mounts if they've never been done, but your knocking on taking up drive would also possibly point to CV joints or just slack in the drive train. Old cars get sloppy gearboxes and diffs, all that play translates into a difficulty to put drive on/off smoothly. Sent from my ONEPLUS A3003 using Tapatalk

I would stick to OE for the engine mounts, and a lot of people slightly uprate the front engine mount. As for the the gears, the stick has a cable connection, it's always a bit sloppy. Sent from my ONEPLUS A3003 using Tapatalk

Does seem likely it's the speedo itself. Don't know many people who have had this. Sent from my ONEPLUS A3003 using Tapatalk

Bosch sell them as direct replacement so they expect them to work with existing charging technology, so I wouldn't worry too much. I'm currently running a Bosch Silver that's two years old and it's charging fine. I don't recall noting any mention of specific battery technology being used for it though. I am a bit obsessive about batteries, so I have a Bluetooth battery monitor fitted that I can track live charge/discharge data with. I can see the alternator delivers 14.5v for fast charge and settles to about 13.8 volts later in a long journey.

Will do..! But I'll probably be sailing past on the M4 instead. Sent from my ONEPLUS A3003 using Tapatalk