dirtytorque

..yeah maybe,but i'll try not to be so ham handed next time so I shouldn't need them. :oops:

vdub now sell the guide pins separately. 20 odd quid. I also bought a one man bleed tool thingy so hopefully once the parts come 2morrow I should be good to go. :)

ok,thnks the brake size to quote being 280 mm right?!!

Hi. Ok some progress. I clamped the brake line and took the caliper off.(I should have done this earlier) This gave me better access and room to maneuver without worrying about the brake line. A few gentle taps of the piston with a hammer to re-align it within the caliper and hey presto,I can now re-tract the piston. I re-attached the caliper back to brake line and then retracted the piston some more. I wanted to see the brake fluid level rise.(I was worried that the brake line had been damaged.).Brake fluid level rose as it should,and no I didn't take it above the max level. :) The down side is that where I had previously attempted to retract the piston the force has somehow bent one of the guide pins. Also the brake pad housing was pushed off the guide pins with the bolts still on. Does a replacement caliper come pre-assembled with a replacement brake pad housing? Not sure what to replace and what to salvage. Also how do you guys mate a foot pump or compressor to the caliper to blow out the piston. I tried the adapter for connecting to a tyre but with little affect. If I do decide to re-use the caliper then I would like to inspect it internally and then replace any serviceable parts etc as suggested above. thnks in advance.

i was just about to have another go at this so thnks for the words of wisdom.

£360 quid :shock: stand and deliver!?!!!

wot about driving it the whole way out and then maybe trying to put it back in again? I'm strating to think new caliper now.

No i never noticed any uneven pulling etc. Ok even weirder. When I undid the brake nipple screw nothing came out. the reservoir is about 2/3 full??? wot does that mean. I've broken it havn't I. :(

its a very common prob,most corrado owners come across it at some point. i reckon it will be that. dunno about a bypass method mate. sorry. cheers. :)

NoooOoOoo I also tried to remove my headlights 2day,but i decided in the end that for what I needed to do i needn't take out the headlights,as I could just take the whole front panel out.I think with the panel out I think I may be better access to the recessed rounded screw!? The whole front area is suffering badly from rust.I took the old intercooler out and one of the screws were so badly corroded it just snapped in half. I'm going to have to replace about a dozen screws etc.. Can you guys use a socket on an extension on the 3rd screw? Will probably have to hold the socket (tight fitting one on screw head) under the slam panel,and pass the extension through (if it will fit?) and then tap the extension/socket onto the screw head? May not be possible...just thinking aloud as i havent got mine in front of me to look at. Neil. I havn't given up on that one yet and will bear what you said in mind but its slipped down the list of corrado woes at the moment. Now lets see what did I do to my corrado 2day? Oh yeah,I fuc&£d my breaks up. Pah, brakes are over rated anyway.

nope its in the housing that you push your key into. can be a bit of a nightmare to change,well i thought so anyway. There is a howto in the knowledge base electrical section. I just used the Bentley manual when i did mine.

do the normal ignition lights come on on the dash?

sorry but it wasn't really clear if the engine is cranking or not?

:( this thing has to be seized up. its not budging. I even bought a caliper piston retraction tool that uses a 1/2 driver.

thnks chaps.

as per the bentley mate it says.. "always remove some brake fluid from the reservoir b4 installing new brake pads.When the caliper piston is pushed back fluid is forced out of the caliperand into the reservoir." and isn't it the rears that need windingin and not the fronts? anyway i tried wedging th piston back in using a g-clamp but its like there is too much pressure to overcome.

I need to push one of the front brake caliper pistons in a tad after re-fitting my break pads and disc. I have done some searches and it looks like i will have to draw some brake fluid off b4 doing this from the reservoir and then once the piston is back in top it back up. then once everything is back in place stomp on the brakes a few times to bed everything in??? Anything else? Does the ignition need to be on through out this procedure? Do I then need to bleed the brakes after all this also?? thanks as always Robert.

for anyones future reference. basically i did exactly stuart4zr400 did, It was the only way to get it out. Once I was just jeft with the outer metal outer ring i just chiseled it until it collapsed.Then I punched it through the hole with the chisel and it popped out. :)

are all the relays properly pushed home?

sorry i tried my best to read through the whole thread but It's so long.... Have you tried changing the ECU relay. Did you arrange for anyone to come and help you in the end(sorry i got to page 17 and then gave up) If you know anyone with a G60 you could quickly swap a known good ecu relay in and see if it helps. Has anyone checked the fuel pressure?

Nice. R u going to drop it a wee bit or our u happy as is?

thnks for the tips. one of the 17mm bolts does not want to come out so i will have to take supercharged advise and buy a heat gun. 2 b continued. :brickwall:

I tried levering it out,to no avail. I guess to drive it out I will have to remove the break discs!?

I have removed the retaining allen bolt,but it is still jammed on pretty tight. Its just the one bolt that holds this thing on right?

I don't think you should be concerened.Keep an eye on it and as long as its stable then i think your ok. Not unusual for a g60 oil to get to 130 altough If I see those types of temps I back of the right foot.(got to 140 once on a warm day :shock: )But iwas was opening her lungs a bit at the time. My oil seems to sit at about 114.Obviously the more power your engine is producing the hotter it will run and thus the more demands will be made on oil/cooling etc. If you get too concerned you can fit an uprated thermostat switch so that the fan comes in earlier and an aftermarket air to oil oil cooler. I'm buying a mocal oil cooler soon. I don't need it yet,but I plan to. 8) cheers