corradog60stage4

yep thieves want to steal a 17 year old car.

new stage 5 chip arrived this morning installing the chip today

got some new plugs tried to look for some W5 but no one had them so went with stock W6 possibility of old skool sound system possibilty of three sets of wheels with new tires 15 inch bbs 17 inch Oettinger 17 inch FKs FK coilovers FK wheels and tires installed interior rear leather autometer gauge pods peace of mind with metal impeller water pump

I have a few vws that needs shoes. but not all of them need the shoes to be new so I paint it myself.

Since I have a Eurosport ceramic coated race headers for my exhaust. I will wrap my headers with woven glass tape to keep the heat as low as possible in the engine compartment and to accelerate exhaust gases. Here is a 100 foot spool of tape. Looks like i got enough to do the entire exhaust line. here are some progress pics should have wrapped them when I had the headers in my hand. still three more to go.

There must be something that we c owners can do to prevent this from happening. I remembered that there was armour door guards for my scirocco.

the finished product bolt originally are in this state. DIRTY after being wirewheeled. threaded part is hard to wirewheel and need to be individually passed on a die. So i made this contraption to facilitate this process when i'm watching television. threads are clean once the bolts are all clean they are ready to be chromed. My buddy works at a chrome shop so we do it during his break time at night. in by the back door. why i feel greek? it is not a mickey mouse operation. they chrome all sorts of things what is this for? here are the vats here is where the plating process occurs. they charge the item to be plated with electricity. acid dip is to clean the metal before plating but it will not get rid of silicone, clearcoat, etc... you need to string each bolt individually with copper wire. I wrapped the copper three times just underneath the head making sure the bolt rests vertical. this is probably the most time consuming task. each string holds about 8 bolts and there is like over 15 strands. first is to dip the bolts into an acid wash second is to wash it in a rinse third is to plate it with copper first and rinse fourth is chrome plating and rinse fifth is second chrome plating and rinse. then you are finished before after there will be a few rings where the copper wire was wrapped will not be chromed.

more pics Since I will be using the AUDI 5000S turbo intake plenum which is much bigger than the stock diameter. Port matching them would benefit greatly for increase in power. Using a BBM assymetrical camshaft, BBM adjustable cam gear, Autotech heavy duty valve springs. i used a mastercraft big rotary tool with a combination of 25 to 400 grit sand wheels. after porting i will just send the head out to get completely rebuilt. need to remove lotsa of metal to get them to match. too much that the injector holders are showing now it is starting to match the gasket for those that do not know AUDI 5000S turbos are 5 cylinder motors so the gasket you see has an extra inlet/port that i will cut off later.

Today had some time to put in the MOCAL thermostatic sandwich plate I had. Bad thing was the barbed fitting was bigger than the 1/4 hose i have. remove the OEM oil cooler. now you got two open ended hoses that you need to plug or connect. Two options 1. get bigger hose 2. get smaller barbed fitting went to turboquip yesterday and ordered some fitting. picked them up this morning and will probably install them this weekend deleting the stock oil cooler leads to another issue. what to do with the two coolant hoses? I got one hose that does not have the extra oil cooler part. so now left with the other hose so i plugged it with a copper plumbing one. copper plug i put it in this way in case in the future i need to remove it easily with needle nose pliers clamped it shut got some teflon tape to get the fitting on the sandwich plate pushed in the hoses on to the barbs routing the oil hoses instead of using a 9 row cooler i had from a volvo. I decided that running high boost and the spirited driving i like to do. I picked up a Brand new Mocal 19 row oil cooler instead. the width is the same and mounting holes in identical spots. so no need to redrill. it was only the height was another 2 inch more which I have clearance for. so upgrading was no problem.

BTW camera was set with no flash and the lights are much brighter than the actual picture. Also it was raining.

Possibly, I'm going to stick it in my Mk 2 GiT and see if it works better with a more conventional headlight - if it does I might hang on to it. If not, it's for the chop. It's the H4 bixenon kit btw, but like I said, it doesn't seem to suit the Corrado headlight. I'll PM you if I decide to flog it. well i guess it depends on what kind of bi xenon design you have. they have some with the bulb attached to a magnetic solenoid which retracts when the highs are applied. they hoave some the tilt on an angle when the highs are applied and they have some that are stationary but with an added halogen bulb right beside. the one I have is made by McCulloch one of the first few companies that were manufacturing HID when they first appeared on the market. They have a stationary bulb with a moving reflector design. As for cutoff i say it is not perfect as my sister's MK4 jetta with projectors but not that bad as with using NA housing. Let me see if I can find some pics of my sister's cutoff for a visual. here is how my sister's jetta looks with 6000K McCulloch HID installed before after :thumbup: :thumbup: :thumbup: WITH PROJECTORS Yes I got Helix projectors with fog lights and put H1 5300K HID lows and H3 3000K HID fogs. these are the lights it has a separate low beam, high beam and fog light as well. first thing was to prepare the HID bulb installation for the low beams and fog lights. She wanted the high beams to be HID as well but I convinced her it was OVERKILL and you don;t need it. picture of the fog light H3 bulb comparison H1 bulb comparison H3's new home H1's new home drilling hole into the boot connecting the wires for the ballasts heat shrink HID bulb wires one side installed projector vs stock stock I had to remove the bumper to get at these two torx screws remove the top two torx screws projector for driver's side installed screw back these two torxs piggy backed the ballasts (one for the yellow fog HID 3000K and the other for the low beam 5300K nothing was adjusted right out of the box. low and fogs

now to assemble it all underneath the c

now to assemble it all underneath the c

some more pics most likely will be installing the exhaust tonight. but when you start to calculate and add all costs of the parts it really goes up. those flanges are really expensive even for cost. I got 8 flanges @ 20.34 plus tax each.

here is pics of the 90 degree after the second resonator.

The Volvo's 12 row oil cooler should be adequate to cool the oil but if you know me i like to drive my cars really hard so I went with a Brand new MOCAL 19 row oil cooler instead.

Never trusting anyone beside myself working on my cars and having gone through formal training mechanics since 1996. I purchased a TIG welder to do my custom exhaust and intake for my rado. Getting a local speedshop to do something custom as this will run you atleast 1000.00 or more. But since I have contacts in the industry all the parts costs me less than 500.00 for a real stainless custom exhaust system. so here is the exhaust part. I purchase a box of stainless steel Vibrant flanges to make my custom exhaust as user friendly as possible. Since I'm using Eurosport ceramic race headers there is no provision for a catalytic convertor but incase i do get stopped by the cops I can remove one of the resontaors and put in a magnaflow catalytic convertor. As you can see I'm ging with a dual magnaflow resonator setup as I don;t want my rado to be too loud. Being too loud attracts police and ricers that want to race you. It is very straight forward TIG welding the flanges to the resonators. I will stop by the local hardware shop to pick up stainless bolts, washer, split washers, and nuts.

O2 installation important not to get any on the probe. if you do it is garbage

install the serpentine this was how the O2 wiring was being butchered from previous owner

remove the wheel liner to expose the hoses/tubes to install some new clamps. Looking at the stock setup it seems there is a funnel that channels air from outside through the intercooler and then it hits the wheel liner. Seeing that autotech made some sort of vent for the 1.8T so the flow of air does not get backed up. Since my FMIC looked bleek as I need to hack 80% the rebar. I decided to do my own thing using a metal vent I had lying around. size of the metal vent was not the greatest but it managed to fit okay. The slats on the vent are angled 45 degrees so that road crap from the wheel doesn;t shoot through to the intercoolers backside but still allowed the air flow to pass. Even though the opening is not really big this theoretically should lower the temps of air passing the cooler thus enhancing performance as opposed to no opening. I mocked it up with some longer bolts I had lying around to see how it would look and then after made a trick to home depot to get much shorter nuts and bolts to finish off. This is not a DIY so here is my plethora of ghetto pics with no step by step procedures. :lol: :lol:

Some would say overkill but for me I want to see as much as possible when driving at night. Wait a minute, actually I don;t drive much at night LOL!!