corradog60stage4

do you have a part number or is it the same from passats?

Just like to know how do you install headlight levelling motors in your corrados? What parts are needed? I know you need two headlight motors and the switch. But what about the wiring? relay? what number on the fuse box etc...? I want to be as OEM as possible.

For all you skeptical people out there. VW wheels are hubcentric meaning that the wheel uses the hub to take the load and not bolt centric wheels which relies on the bolts to take the load. The centerbore on the bbs wheels is for VW so the hub to wheel face is perfect. Also everyone should know that BBS RS centers are forged aluminum and not like the weaker cast stuff. FYI there is another wheel company SSR that makes wheels with the identical universal bolt pattern for 4X100 and 5X100. So these are structurally safe.

It seems the color of the light is giving off alot of glare. The purple violet halo around the headlights. I have MC with a color temp of 4300K. I do not have a on road photo. HID for the low beams HID for both low beams and fog light. closer picture and the going with a higher color temperature like 6000K as pictures in the high beams you start to notice the glare.

wow that picture shows much more glare than my HIDs in my light setup. what color temperatures are those?

pictures of the process would be nice to see.

where can you find the in pros now?

no i don't and i have to drill a RS001 to be 5X100. before back front countersink My RS001 are finally assembled and test fitting it on the rado for any clearance issues. not going to rub the fenders This is not for the faint at heart :notworthy:

well i started to tinker with a spare tb with some flap wheels.

one picture :clap:

used this before

they are still heated and you can see the heating element behind the glass is still intact.

Looking for a better lower tie bar than what i have. Something that ties the rear lower control arms too. The one I have is just the front.

one set done now 10 more sets to go.

These wheels are atleast 16 years old so I sent out the cores to the wheel refinishers to have straightened and painted. Now to piece them up

any flow figures? this looks pretty interesting. my TB is holding back

Yes HIDs are good and gives more light output than the halogen setups. When you go blue in the same headlight housing the blue hue give a greater impression for glare. Originally the corrado comes with 9004 bulbs so I wired them up with the same plug going to four relayed harnesses. I think first stage is dipped, pull on the stalk and both dipped and high are on. push the stalk and only high beams. The fogs on the other hand I added an independent OEM switch and relayed circuit so regardless low or high and I have on or off control of them.

yes correct. I have the 6000K just to test the color and it is just too blue for me but my honda ricer buddy loves them blue. I will be putting 4300K for the highs as well.

car is stored during the winter and now we are having a snow storm. Will have to wait on them road shots.

more pics had a problem with the high tension wires for the high beam not being long enough on the passenger side. There was nothing on the market so I custom made this HID extension a la maison. :clap: testing high beam with 6000K hid capsule low, high and fog on. :salute:

Make sure you are grounded before doing any of this and the notch on the chip is on the same side as the mark on the base.

For your information all halogen headlight housing do give off a degree of glare. When using regular 55 watt halogen bulbs this glare is unnoticeable but when you use something like 100 watt competition halogen bulbs this glare becomes noticeable. So if you are putting in HID capsules that have 3 times the light output of 55 watt halogen then you will noticeable glare that everyone talks about. Color temperature also adds to the perception of glare as going over 4300K on coming traffic will notice 6000K as glare while 4300K they will not. In my opinion the best would be to get 4300K H4 capsules with the arc with the closest specs. :notworthy:

I was experimenting with two types of bi-xenon mechanism on the left is the mcculloch with moving shutter and on right was no name telescopic mechanism here are H3 for the fog lights.

Well you don't need fancy bulbs, but if you're putting in an uprated loom, it makes sense to put in a set of Silver Stars at the same time. I was just using it to compare price really. If you use the posh kit that DDI sell then it's going to be over double the money, especially if you want to go overkill and get 2 sets - one for the H4s and one for the H3s! I'm still very tempted though, the buggers are fecking bright! :lol: they better be bright at 3200 lumens each hid capsule. :clap: with my setup you got like 19200 lumens with everything on :salute:

Possibly, I'm not sure... I'd heard that too, but I know quite a few people that have had them through on an MOT and said that all the light needs to pass is the beam pattern. Could be wrong though I thought so too, but it's apparently not true as the HID kits are made to the same beam pattern as whatever bulbs you have to replace. So if you have H4 bulbs now, you buy an H4 HID kit... I have H4 for the lows and H3 for the highs and fogs. As long as you don't get blue lights or higher than 5000K it should be okay.