nmahi

ouch......did you get the cat then? charge it for the repairs.

bent stub axle....

Good guide info here - but I'd suggest that rather than use insulating tape to seal the relay containers you use 'self-amalgam' tape, which is better than insulating tape - its sticks to itself very well and moulds itself to shape better. Maplins sell it.

 

Good guide tho :)

cheers, is that like wiring/loom tape?

basic principal applies to anything water tight.

 

you can buy small round/square tuppaware type pots from asda for cheaper than this, grommets might be fun to find but im sure you would get hold of them

i looked that the loom diagram you sent me......still i gota say im confused..... :shrug:

Ah tuperwear box, good idea!

 

By the way, just to confirm, are they the large or small relays you have there. Cant work out the scale.

im guess mine are small ones.....

The plan was to find a nice metal (polish-able) box, been looking around, couldn't find anything, the i found the sharpener alu tube and i spent about 15mins looking at it.......i was asked like 3times "are you ok sir, do you need help?" lol

WHSmiths have loads of different shapes and sizes, which can be adapted.....

i just thought it would look good - another polished thing in the bay which people will point out thinking "whats that?" lol

bob

any1 like the guide? :shrug: :roll: :scratch:

depends what needs doing to fit? im picking up a bonnet from brum on friday so you never know might be able to lend a hand

im not sure what wire to cut....... im free friday morning .....start work at 2.

Hey guys, before i write my guide i thought id just say i ain't fitted my loom yet, however i have read all the problems with it not being water tight. I mean to lose you headlights in the dark is pretty scary alone, but in rain is worse.

Any how, this guide may not be your "up of tea" but you can adopt it and use other things.

1. Buy a loom (i have a 2relay)

2.Buy some sliver aluminum can pencil sharpeners - £1.72 each x 1 relay WHSmiths (or find similar)

Cut/break off the sharpener

3. Drill/cut the hole bigger so you feed the wire spades through.

4.Feed wires through one at a time (unless you know where they all go.)

5.There you go, all you got to is mount them now.....I'm going to polish mine up, would look ace in the bay.

happy days.........you can seal the bottoms with abit of insulation tape.

I need some to help me fit my loom.......any1 willing to help me? im in bham?

bob 8)

cool, gess I will have to pop into my stealers to find out.

 

Will be the first time and defo not the last time I will be going there :lol: :lol:

lol, get a part number and price and post it on here......might be interesting....

so how much would a new valve cost from the steelers? and how easy are they to change

i dont how much new.....but a bolt off and on job. simple

HAHA no worrys, I dont think it is the switch or cable as Dave and Graham both looked at that when I payed the a visit a few weeks ago and they said they are good.

 

Only thing I can think of is either the cold start valve has a intamitent problem, or its the cold start sensor thingy :confused4:

 

I know I couldnt belive how dirty it was and the car has only covered 85K miles.

 

I'm not to fused about the inlet manifold as I have a nice new and clean one to go on soon 8)

could be cold start valve......i know my brothers 16v mk1 (corrado 9A engine) had problem internally in the cold start valve and John at stealth racing used two old ones to built 1 good one...

ok then......thought id ask before spend 15mins writing one up.....ok then, watch this space.....mind you i haven't fitted it yet.....so whos gonna help me fit mine? im in bham?

p.s them throttle bodies as nasty,you should be ashamed at yourself... :salute:

Cleaning my thottle body seams to have half sorted the probolem.

 

In the mornings when I leave for work ( 5.30 am) it starts no probolem what so ever, may rev a little high but no probolem in starting.

 

Now when i leave work to come home or when the engine is cold but warm (like when the engine has been running but not for a couple of hours) it struggels to start properly. It will start but the revs will be very low and the engine will realy ruff. Almost as if you could hear each cylinder going off one at a time, it will pick its self up after a few seconds. Then it may run fine or it will rev high ( around 2K )

 

I've all ready cleaned the ISV

 

Any one got any ideas as to what could be causing it :shrug: :confused4:

ive been looking at mine today, im thinking it maybe to 1. your throttle cable or 2.the switch on the throttle?......thats me guessing

Anyone interested in how to make you upgraded loom water tight for £1.72 per relay? :)

i wrote them an email, any other places where i could find any?

not that i know of......google "carpet moulds/moulder"

No worrys

 

Well I've all ready given it a clean with carb cleaner

time to change it then?>

Cleaned mine today, was rather dirty one side but clean the other.

 

Had a bit of trouble undoing the 4 bolts they did start to round off but a few light taps with a hammer on the alan key sorted that out :D

 

Gave it a good old clean and put it all back on then went for a spin

 

It hasnt curred the problem but the car feels more urgent when i put my foot down, also when the revs do decide to drop down when i engage the cluth it happens alot quicker.

 

The how to guide was very helpfull, so much easyer when you have pics to help you out. Especialy when you know hardly anything about the engine bay :D

 

Have a few pics I will upload later when i get the time

 

:salute:

thank you mate 8) .....i would say its your ISV then.....

I used carb cleaner.......some STP (?) stuff.

yeh thats good stuff

I will be giving my throttle body a clean this weekend then to see if it works :D

 

 

lets hope so :notworthy:

 

Even if it doesn't sort the problem completely, I think it's a worth while task anyway that will give you a difference in the way the car performs :)

did you use brake or carb cleaner?

no guide with pics but it's pretty simple really.

4 connections on a relay:

1 (pin 30)the relay needs power straight from the battery, via a fuse for safety.

2 (pin 86)it also needs a switching feed (one of your existing headlight live connections, removed from back of headlights or cut into wire before headlight)

3 (pin 85)it then needs an earth (back to battery or suitable chassis earth point)

4 (pin 87)then lastly the output from the relay to the headlight live on the back of the headlight unit

 

if a single relay is used and only for say dip beam, then you need to split the output of the relay (87) to the backs of both headlight units

 

if both dip and main beam are to be 'relayed up' then you need two relays, one for dip circuit, one for main.

if you want the additional safety of left/right separate circuits then you need four relays, that way you'd only ever lose one light if a relay stuck or a fuse popped. Doing this you'll also need to use the existing feeds from both headlights as switching feeds.

 

the corrado splits the main beam +ve to the twin filament main/dip bulb and the centre spot lights inside the light unit itself, so no need to worry about that.

 

If you have a loom kit with VW connector blocks already attached then it should be plug and play apart from the +ve feed from the battery and possibly earth back to it. If you just have a bunch of wires, then you need to cut into the existing feeds to the lights and connect up with male/female spade connectors, preferably covered in waterproof sheaths.

thanks.......i think :confused4:

i got a 2 relay one. i know where the battery ones go, (live + earth), ive then got a wires saying:

"Switch black/white" - does that mean there's wires that colour i need to cut into?

"Switch black/yellow"

headlight main beam - wire colour?

headlight dip beam - wire colour?

bob

I will be giving my throttle body a clean this weekend then to see if it works :D

lets hope so :notworthy: