beastie4126

The water on the outside is from where I flushed the system previously and then ran the engine up to temp with the cap off to make so I didn't have a vapour lock. I had managed to clear the expansion of the brown gunk but once running the engine again more turned up. I may have another go tomorrow to see if I can get it all cleared out but it does have an oily smell and feel to it unlike anti freeze which is a bit oily between the fingers.

I managed to get stuck in a fair bit of traffic on the way home the other day and all of a sudden the coolant warning light started flashing on the dash. After a quick inspection in the heavy rain I could see that the coolant level was fine and carried on my merry way assuming that the level sensor had gone south and was next on the list of parts to be renewed. Further down the road my gauges went compleley schitzo with the temp, tacho and indicators turning off when the lights are on but I'll worry about that later. Took the cap off today to check out if I was right or not and I have now been presented with this mucky mess which I can only think is oil in the coolant system. Now I would have expected to see some kind of milky residue on the dip stick as well but nothing showing at the moment. What do you experts out there reckon?

I trundled along the M25 at 5mph and watched my mileage roll over the 100,000 mark :D

A set of 16" x 7 RX's on mine

Yeah I think that is a lot of the problem hence why I spent the day felting loads of it :lol: it's not too bad now, but when I 'crash' over something there's still noise, and I think the dash is a lot of it! Just leave lots of change in the door pockets to disguise it :D Reading through the stuff Kev has said has made me think about changing the rear springs in the near future as I would prefer betting handling just not at the expense of comfort, however you normally have to comprimise somewhere. Out of interest would you two use the same rates for the lighter 16v or would a lighter front rate be more applicable? Only asking as I am going to re-use the old FK's on my 16v trackday car for the time being and was thinking of changing the short springs and helpers for full length versions.

So you ended up with the same rates as me in the end, be interesting to see results if you do get the the firmer rear springs. As far as damping goes I have settled on 3/4 turn at the front and 20 clicks in at the back which seems to be giving a good comprimise.

I used a set of golf mk3 288mm discs.

Cheers Judith I found it eventually :clap: I'll help with further searches by bringing it closer to the top :) http://the-corrado.net/.archive/forum/viewtopic.php?f=23&t=57304&p=677601&hilit=#p677601 http://the-corrado.net/.archive/forum/download/file.php?id=43425

Quick question. Having wheels aligned tomorrow and I am not sure what the best settings for camber and toe are. I think I am right in saying standard settings are 0 degrees for both but I have read that 1 degree of camber improves handling etc. Any pointers appreciated

oh happy days - good spot that man

Spotted a White L reg heading southbound on the M25 just as I peeled off at junction 14. Must have been about 8am or there abouts.

Managed to get my Gaz Coil overs fitted today without too much fuss, quite surprised myself and had it done in about four hours. It does help when you havn't got to fight 15 year old rusted together bolts having changed the shocks recently. I still need to sort out the shock heights once they dampers bed in but after a few basic damping (guessed at) settings a ride around the local pot hole riddled country side has left me with a smile on my face. No more bouncing in and out of the potholes and no more violent jarring from the rear of the car like my old shocks used too. I have not been in a car with V1's etc so I can't really compare but I will say that at nearly three times the price of the shocks (FK Streets) they have replaced they definately feel worth it. Now need to get a four wheel alignment done and then I can start playing around with the damping settings properly.

Why not take off the so called "sports muffler" and run the engine to see how much difference it makes?

Mine have turned up today and they are still in the box (not for long). Won't be able to get them on until next weekend so hopefully you find the best setup by then :)

Well having driven my car with standard VW and poly bushes I can only state that I find the handling better with the poly bush. This is subjective though as the bushes replaced had almost covered 99,000 miles. It would be interesting to do a back to back comparison.

If it's the metal bolster support you will be better off stripping the seat down and having it welded up or seeing if someone has a generally tatty cloth seat that the frame is ok on and swap the base out.

Just wear really dark sunglasses and you will think u have tinted windows :)

Have you tried cleaning the plugs that actually connect the ABS pump? mine kept coming up with the same error and has only gone away after cleaning with a brass brush and a good squirt of contact cleaner.

If you can afford a bit extra, why not consider a "brand name" such as these: http://www.venommotorsport.com/manufact ... el=Corrado Ian. I have these on my VR6 and I'm swaping them for a set of GAz as they are way too harsh and back breaking at times. Save your pennies for a bit longer and go for something a bit better IMO I wish I had.

Having done this myself I know how annoying it is, lay time I removed it I put a line of tippex accross the top. The arb should be above the wishbone when installed with the middle loop/bend pointing down. Links should be above wishbone as well. Can take a pic later if stuck

I went for the standard supplied rate so I can be a true guinea pig.

Well we can both find out how they are as have just bitten the bullet and ordered them. Fingers crossed :)

Well I was having enough trouble deciding between a set of V1's and V2's and now you throw these in the pot. At that price I reckon I might be giving Corby motorsport a call in the morning.

Well I did tell ya :wave:

When refilling water system and no bleed tap/point is available I tend to fill up the expansion tank then run the engine topping up as required and squeezing those hoses you can get at to make sure no air is trapped. Once the level looks stable stick the cap on and keeping the engine running check for leaks as the intenal pressure builds.