fendervg

If anyone has a good VR6 OEM centre pipe around, please get in touch.

I always thought there was nothing wrong with the OE exhaust for a standard or mildly up-rated car - it was long life, good quality, solid and very refined and suited to the engine - but damn expensive to buy new!. I fitted a Milltek, and though I'm happy with it, I now wish I had kept the original for a few years more and would go back if I could.

The whole dash comes out to replace the matrix - it's a little radiator like thingy that is fitted on the bulkhead just behind the centre console - about where the ashtray and storage compartment are. The aux pump sits on the right of the engine bay, just up a little from the coil pack/distributor, and to the left of the coolant expansion tank - depending on model.

Electric pump under the boot floor in the petrol tank. It should run at 4 bar. Test your fuel pressure at the rail and check your fuel pressure regulator on the right hand side of the rail. You might have a problem with residual pressure due to a leak somewhere. You won't hear a good pump prong or running, but the relay should energise as above. Most of the info is there.

Take the cap off the expansion cap when cold and let it warm up slowly while squeezing all the hoses to get air out...

Would be the aux pump alright. Is it noisy when you listen to it with the bonnet open? It could be on it's way out. Also do you have aircon? heater matrix is at ankle/knee height behind the centre console.

Ha ha - IE road tax #rip-off

Sure - PM and we'll work something out.

Current sorry state of inside driver's door! This is after a succession of glass fitters and alarm installers have been at it over the years: [ATTACH]84160[/ATTACH]

Things done recently (just a list for my own reference more than anything): - fitted control box, speaker and mic from an old Nokia CK-7W car kit, very stealth and OEM and works with iPhone! - New ISV - replaced headlight bulbs - New distributor, cap, rotor arm and HT leads - fitted non-return valve on fuel feed from tank to stop leak down (works a treat) - new crank sensor - new VAG rear axle beam bushes fitted - New Lemforder top mounts and strut top bearings all round Now runs beautifully and handles really well - apart from the odd cut out when returning to idle - #tears Things to do (on the long finger): - replace sunroof motor (again!) - fix rear wiper washer jet - fit headlight adjustment motors - fit cruise control - sort out some paint and rust issues - replace RHS door handle with repair kit and clean up membrane and door card - same for passenger side - clean throttle body and adjust - change brake fluid - fit refurbished injectors and seals - fit refurbished ABS pump etc. etc.

[ATTACH]84158[/ATTACH] Current engine bay pics with new dizzy and Bremi red HT leads fitted. [ATTACH]84159[/ATTACH]

That's the question really - I can't tell - I don't have access to the back end. Most of the VW dealer stock system is still out of date and not real-time I've discovered recently. That is probably the part where you are going to get stuck - but it looks like it's just a plastic nut insert, you could actually make some up on a 3D printer and drill a pilot hole for the screw to grip. On the other hand you'd be surprised what weird little trim clips are still available from a friendly dealer as they made thousands of them spare and some are used across the range. And don't get stung by the dealer that says you have to buy a box of 50 etc., they are listed as individual items and I've never had issues buying them as such.

I have the special VW tool if anyone in Dublin, Ireland needs to use it - I know it's not much use to you guys in the UK but I thought I'd let you know.

Hmmm.... http://www.clubgti.com/showthread.php?103456-cable-change-gearbox-(linkage-adjustment) http://the-corrado.net/showthread.php?32297-gear-linkage-adjustment/page4 There's plenty more. If you get hold of a Haynes or the Bentley manual it will explain the procedure and an experienced mechanic should be able to do it by feel...you won't get anything out of the forum really unless you have a look at the search function.

Google ;) Use the search on here, I'm sure it's been covered before - or there are very good sites in Canada and Germany as well.

You can still adjust the cable change linkage - it's done using a screw on the tower at the shift lever end and one at the gearbox end. If your gearbox was ever out for a clutch change or other work it may have gone out of alignment in the past. Or, worst case, your shift fork in the gearbox has worn. Try the free stuff first, then the oil change, then take a look at the gearbox itself. VWs from that era are notorious for poor shifting anyway. Just my two cents.

Right, this is what I think you need per side: 3 x N 10657201 - oval head panel screw 6,3x16 3 x 443821699 - plastic clip for screw to screw into and 5 x N 01396921 - oval head panel screw 4,8x16 5 x N0116653 - washer 5,3x15x1,6 You can probably just get away with the first two line items. Get your dealer to show you the parts diagram to make sure they have the right ones.

Have you changed your gearbox oil recently and adjusted the linkage? There's a special tool for centering it but it can also be done by feel. A quick Google will find instructions.

If it's on the move there should be more than enough air getting to the radiator. When sitting in traffic it's down to the cooling system and the fans. One slat more or less won't make a huge difference.

If you can talk to the ECU and get an error code back there is not likely to be anything wrong with it. It's not like it's a Pentium or anything. Check all the engine sensors that feed into the ECU for continuity and signal. Just my opinion. The Motronic ECU uses crank, cam, inlet temp, lambda, MAF and coolant temp (all I can remember for now) to make its decisions. Might also be worth getting your fuel pressure tested and checking for any air leaks. Oh and there's a throttle position sensor too.

Fuel pressure regulator is worth a try.

Probably worth addressing any general issues with the cooling system before butchering the grille! Check out the "definitive VR6 cooling" thread on here. What issues are you trying to address?

Are you putting on a new liner? Be aware that the hole will have widened with age and you'd be better of using a slightly larger self tapping one.

They are just standard self tapping. I'll check the part# when I get a chance.

You'll get from the dealer. Pretty standard item. They have a washer attached and new ones will be gold/brass in colour. Or is it the wheel arch screws you are looking for?