fendervg

Do you have the lower steering column cowling for a height adjustable wheel? Thanks.

IMHO your best bet is to find a good independent mechanic and build up some trust and a business relationship over time. I'm happy to do nearly everything myself, but don't have access to a lift or ramps. Some jobs are just not worth it if you can't get the car into the air at a comfortable working height. Talking in general rather than just camber adjustment.

They don't know monkeys about older cars as a general rule. The guys that knew how to do it are probably retired. Just because they have a fancy laser test rig doesn't mean that they know anything about how suspension geometry works. You can do it with a piece of string and a few basic tools at home.

Any mounts other than rubber will result in increased feedback and vibration. There are also rubber dampers on the subframe that you can look at. Another reason can be a tired gearbox shift fork mechanism or an incorrectly fitted clutch disc.

Engine and gearbox mounts need checking?

I maybe able to help, but why do you not simply return what you bought and get the correct one? They are easily available. I think I have a 93 VR6 one at home and will try to dig it out later this evening and have a look.

Cheers.

You're on the right track, I'd say. Good work.

That's just the name. There are junior and power timers depending on the size etc.

Thanks Jim. Anyone else?

Looks like your MAF or inlet manifold temp sensor is disconnected.

If the part numbers don't match up I would say the answer is no. You might be able to swap the whole assembly over though.

There is a speed sender wiring point behind the fuse box. This feeds the clocks, spoiler and radio volume control. I think it's a blue white wire. It takes its signal from a sender in the gearbox.

The answer is yes for all VAG cars. Some items are also even found on other manufacturer's cars.

I have a Meta alarm and it's connected to the central locking - there is a wire on most cars for remote close already in the loom - when I press the "close" button continuously both the sunroof and the windows will close as the car locks. Well, most of the time anyway ;)

Ok - that is a breather/filter for the idle control valve - it's a common failure at this age as the plastic goes brittle over time due to the relatively high temps under the bonnet and cracks with age. Oil can also get in there and contaminate the foam. They're not strictly necessary, and many people delete and bypass it, but a replacement can be got easily online if you search using the part number for about £50 or less if you decide to keep it as God (VW designer's) intended. Your ISV will now likely need to be cleaned as well. The charcoal cannister is for the fuel system and is different, but can also be removed, but it is a bit more work. If it's working now, there is no need to mess with it.

Thanks guys - let me know whenever you have had a chance to have a look.

The system is operated at rest at atmospheric pressure I believe. This is via the reservoir. You don't want any leaks anywhere from the master cylinder onwards. It's hydraulic and depends on moving a liquid that won't compress in volume around to exert force at the brake discs. The risk with the feed pipe is that air or other contaminants could get into the system. This will either cause soft brakes or internal corrosion in the system. Please don't take any chances when it comes to the braking system if you are not sure. You are potentially risking your own and other's lives. IMHO

B3/B4 seems to be the best option. The others don't appear to fit correctly because they don't match the curvature of the roof exactly, so you get wind noise at speed. You will also need to make sure that the deflector at the front is working properly.

Cheers Jim.

It's really just the CL actuator that sits inside the door, near the lock mechanism. It comes out as a unit and has a loom connector and a vacuum hose connection to the CL pump.

The part number on my old one is 535 953 516 C Cheers.

I have a complete door I'm stripping at the moment, but it's in Ireland - let me know if you don't get sorted anywhere closer to home.

You would have had a vacuum leak and that would lead to all sorts of fueling and ignition issues as the ECU would not have been able to obtain accurate airflow metering data. You can test the intake pressure with a cheap mechanical boost gauge and some tubing and a t-piece. The normal values are in the Bentley factory repair manual. Most of the vacuum system is hidden, so you need to strip the covers and trim off the engine to check the hoses and connectors for cracks and splits. Sounds like you would also have lost brake servo assist as the servo is linked to the intake vacuum system. Hope this helps.

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