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Everything posted by fendervg
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Wanted: Full Black Leather Interior (prefer Recaro)
fendervg replied to oxfordpaul's topic in Wanted
For sure. Unicorn genitals come to mind. The recaros are actually not as nice to sit in as the standard heated leather, so not worth the scene tax in my opinion. Now cloth electric Recaros are another thing altogether. -
The two terminals I. The sensor form a circuit via the coolant. If the level drops, the circuit is broken, hence the light goes on. Check the wiring to make sure it is working and bridge the pins on the connector. You might have a dodgy tank.
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Replacing the front end underside , where to lift the car from ? .,
fendervg replied to robrado974's topic in Exterior
If you look near the jacking points on the sills and then go inwards you will find a number of strengthened points on the chassis shell that you can use. Be careful to protect the top of your jack stands and jack with something (I use a rubber ice hockey puck) so as not to damage the under seal. If you do a Google search, there is a picture about of the Corrado from underneath with all the jacking points and reinforced sections marked. -
Apologies for the late update - mine arrived last week - all good. Keep up the good work, really appreciated.
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Strange experience with wheel alignment at Kwik Fit..
fendervg replied to Jim's topic in General Car Chat
IMHO your best bet is to find a good independent mechanic and build up some trust and a business relationship over time. I'm happy to do nearly everything myself, but don't have access to a lift or ramps. Some jobs are just not worth it if you can't get the car into the air at a comfortable working height. Talking in general rather than just camber adjustment. -
Strange experience with wheel alignment at Kwik Fit..
fendervg replied to Jim's topic in General Car Chat
They don't know monkeys about older cars as a general rule. The guys that knew how to do it are probably retired. Just because they have a fancy laser test rig doesn't mean that they know anything about how suspension geometry works. You can do it with a piece of string and a few basic tools at home. -
Any mounts other than rubber will result in increased feedback and vibration. There are also rubber dampers on the subframe that you can look at. Another reason can be a tired gearbox shift fork mechanism or an incorrectly fitted clutch disc.
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Engine and gearbox mounts need checking?
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WTB: 94 vr6 lambda probe connector piece with cables
fendervg replied to hendrikbmx's topic in Wanted
I maybe able to help, but why do you not simply return what you bought and get the correct one? They are easily available. I think I have a 93 VR6 one at home and will try to dig it out later this evening and have a look. -
Cheers.
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You're on the right track, I'd say. Good work.
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That's just the name. There are junior and power timers depending on the size etc.
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Thanks Jim. Anyone else?
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Looks like your MAF or inlet manifold temp sensor is disconnected.
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If the part numbers don't match up I would say the answer is no. You might be able to swap the whole assembly over though.
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There is a speed sender wiring point behind the fuse box. This feeds the clocks, spoiler and radio volume control. I think it's a blue white wire. It takes its signal from a sender in the gearbox.
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SEAT nuts and bolts part number - are they the same as VW
fendervg replied to edd's topic in Drivetrain
The answer is yes for all VAG cars. Some items are also even found on other manufacturer's cars. -
I have a Meta alarm and it's connected to the central locking - there is a wire on most cars for remote close already in the loom - when I press the "close" button continuously both the sunroof and the windows will close as the car locks. Well, most of the time anyway ;)
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Ok - that is a breather/filter for the idle control valve - it's a common failure at this age as the plastic goes brittle over time due to the relatively high temps under the bonnet and cracks with age. Oil can also get in there and contaminate the foam. They're not strictly necessary, and many people delete and bypass it, but a replacement can be got easily online if you search using the part number for about £50 or less if you decide to keep it as God (VW designer's) intended. Your ISV will now likely need to be cleaned as well. The charcoal cannister is for the fuel system and is different, but can also be removed, but it is a bit more work. If it's working now, there is no need to mess with it.
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Thanks guys - let me know whenever you have had a chance to have a look.
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The system is operated at rest at atmospheric pressure I believe. This is via the reservoir. You don't want any leaks anywhere from the master cylinder onwards. It's hydraulic and depends on moving a liquid that won't compress in volume around to exert force at the brake discs. The risk with the feed pipe is that air or other contaminants could get into the system. This will either cause soft brakes or internal corrosion in the system. Please don't take any chances when it comes to the braking system if you are not sure. You are potentially risking your own and other's lives. IMHO
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B3/B4 seems to be the best option. The others don't appear to fit correctly because they don't match the curvature of the roof exactly, so you get wind noise at speed. You will also need to make sure that the deflector at the front is working properly.
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Cheers Jim.