fendervg

Well, IMHO all types of brake lines need to be inspected regularly. The standard ones are rubber, and will age and expand under pressure and should really be replaced every 3-5 years. The braided ones add some strength by having metal braid around the rubber. So you will probably just have replaced old worn ones with new ones in any case, and will also have bled the system - so that will improve the feel on two counts. Note that the braided ones can still perish underneath the braid and are actually harder to inspect then. A lot of older cars will not have had these items replaced in a while so it's a good precaution to take.

My opinion would be: track car, no ABS required, but if it's a daily keep it working. One day it might save a life, possibly yours.

Yep. That's about par for a late 80s generation car. The foot brake efficiency is a little low and it might be worth changing the fluid and giving it a good pressure bleed. Should be done every couple of years anyways. I've had an Audi Coupe Quattro, MkII, Polo and the VR and there is no way you will get the standard brakes up to the level of modern cars. You just compensate for it when driving.

Did ARZ-Tuning in Germany not have them new for a while? I might have a few knocking around - will keep an eye out.

Uh-oh - not looking good. My cats were both in all night but they, like me, didn't have a vote and live in the wrong country! ;)

Is the TPS new or s/h? Might be interested in second dibs on that.

6 years, bought her with 35K on the clock and there's approx 90K on there now. It hasn't let me down any more than more modern cars to be honest, and most of the work is preventative or replacing the older bits and pieces.

Sent pp there. Thanks and great work.

I think Passat B3/B4 roofs are the best fit. Can be found easily on German ebay.

Would be nice if they had the 16v G60 in them. A real sleeper!

[emoji41]

Cheers.

6 years so far. No plans to get rid of it yet. Still love it when everything works as it should [emoji41]

Are you sure about the Mk3 GTIs? Is it the 6 outlet unit with EDL? I thought the Mark 3s had the Teves 20 system instead of the Teves 04. The best way to troubleshoot is to get VCDS on to the car and pull the codes from the ABS ECU. Or replace, by trial and error, the four wheel sensors, brake position sensor, ECU, maybe loom and then the pump, I would think.

Let's see.

No rush. PM me the details and we'll sort something out. Thanks. Postage would be to Dublin, Ireland.

Would love to get hold of a set of these - does anyone have any they would like to part with or have any leads on where to get them? Using a set of Lidl generic ones at the moment - they do the job but don't fit right. Thanks all.

Well not today, but a few days ago, at my trusty mechanics as I don't have access to a lift: New Lemforder strut top mounts all round, new VAG rear axle beam bushes fitted, brake system bleed and a new lambda sensor. The car now handles appreciably better and the engine is nice and smooth. I've replaced nearly all the engine related sensors now, so lets see what happens to the idle and cutting out woes. Fingers crossed.

Can confirm needle does not move when cranking a fully working engine. I think the RPM signal comes from the hall sender anyway and also the ignition coil, so will only show when ignition is running as well as the engine turning.

Yep, having a lovely day with my four beautiful daughters! Got a nice set of Star Wars stacking mugs and some t-shirts. Hope you all have a good one. And remember, the Corrado IS a practical family car - two baby seats in the back when needed and keep a 7-seater as a your daily. ;)

I think I got one for myself, so will wait to see what BBA-Reman have to say about it when it arrives. They seem to be getting really hard to find and lots of them are past it anyway at this stage. There were loads of cars breaking a few years back, and now not so many. Keep an eye out on German ebay, and one or two on here may have ones from breakers. The common faults with the pumps seem to be crud in the valve block, dodgy wiring connectors and the dry solder joints and the ribbon cable on the circuit board. Any you buy now are likely in need of a good clean up or repair. Incidentally VAG still sell them new, but for the approx €2400 they are asking you could just go and buy another VR with working ABS! ;) Good luck with your search.

Great work. Thanks for the effort.

Pretty sure the needle doesn't move when cranking, but will check later.

I'd take two please, one if there's not enough to go around.

I think it depends on what speed the fan is staying on at, as the different stages are controlled by different sensors. When this happened to me (fan stayed on after car turned off with key out and battery running flat) it was definitely replacing the three pin sensor in the radiator that fixed it for me.