fendervg

Think I have one.

Hi all - I "urgently" need a RHS door handle and mech, ;) - with the central locking actuator loom attached. The striker condition is not important and I will change the barrels over. I have a few repair kits knocking around. Can these be got new or what are the options - what have you got? Many thanks.

I have the original dizzy if anyone wants it to refurb. Hall sender socket had cracked off on it but will start a new thread for that.

Yep. And my dizzy is a brand new Bosch unit!

Snap

Thanks Rich for taking my call the other day - very helpful. Just doing some thinking aloud on this - so far I reckon for a 1993 distributor early VR6 ABV I would need the above, and: - coil pack - cam sensor - some kind of camshaft cover or something to go where the distributor was - new OBDII diagnostics loom and connector to replace the 2x2 old style connector under the gear lever surround Can anyone think of anything else? Will it even work on a dizzy car? Will the ABS ECU still work on the OBDII diagnostic loom? There could also be unexpected interactions with my existing alarm and immobiliser setup (Sterling Toad Excel and Meta alarm) I think the plug leads are the same, just a bit shorter I will be taking the stock manifold off soon anyway to replace the injectors with refurbished ones with new seals, so that would be a good time to attempt such a conversion. Hmmmm. Thanks in advance for any advice and comments.

That's what I have in mine and the unit I have is new.

Want to do mine? [emoji3] looks great!

I have a switch light surround unit in grey. Needs the switch itself though.

Go ahead and get in touch. It's a pretty big job to convert and I need to do some research first as mine has a distributor instead of coil pack.

Might give you a call to discuss. PM me.

Hmmm. Tempted.

Ok. My mistake. [emoji1]

Hmmm. If it has a speedo cable going to it or a flywheel inspection hole you can refill through there. For the bolt, it could get messy. I used a huge allen key and a spanner to get mine out. I presume you tried heating it and penetrating oil? You might have to drill it then and use a stud or scre extractor with a reverse thread. I'm sure there'll be other ideas on here.

Great sarcasm here on this thread! ;)

Haven't fitted mine yet. Waiting on a pressure bleeder to arrive. And it's mysteriously behaved itself on the last few runs! Ah, nothing like a Corrado [emoji23]

[emoji106]

@edition - pm sent.

There is an ignition-off after-run delay timer on the fan controller to cool down the engine after a hot run. This is also why the electric aux water pump will run for a while after you have switched off the car. My old Audi had it too. Look for the "definitive VR6 cooling" thread on here for more info.

You may have disturbed some of the wiring to the fan controller or temp sensors while you were working. Check them all out. Depends on what type of engine you have. The heater matrix itself plays no part in the operation of the fans - it's just a small radiator.

I have 2 x no.1 and 1 x no.3 spare. These are new red, VW items with the cylinder number on both ends bought recently from Classic Parts or Germany. As far as I know they are made by Bremi, who still manufacture the OEM leads (that's what I have on mine). Let me know if you want any of them. Just to warn you if you are in a hurry that it might take a while to sort out postage etc. as I'm pretty busy at the moment in work.

I'll take a look later - VW Classic or Heritage may also have them.

Which ones do you need?

Rang them again - they are pretty helpful on the phone. However the guy reckoned that it would only come off with difficulty and could not be re-used, so that's worth bearing in mind. It's silver in colour (2mm), there's also a 3mm black version, usually used where it is visible. Not sure if I'm going to risk it yet tbh- but still trying to find a supplier of good butyl tape who will ship to Ireland for less than a king's ransom!

Do you still have some?