potatonet

I agree with both these fellows.

oh and if I rev my engine and I hear something like rotating a fingernail on cnc'd aluminum Im guessing thats my supercharger and its displacer rotating on the wall of the charger. I guess I did lose an apex seal =-/. oh well rebuild time I guess. =/

ok so does anyone know the thread that tells me what belt size to buy so that I can run my c without the charger while I get it serviced? and if this account for me having AC?

problem was fuel mixture and gadada noise was a loose cover bracket for timing belt. now works great! thanks for the help guys =-) my car is now done and up for sale.

ahaha turkey hahhaaa love it. no the car is going into the shop today and once I get it back its going up for sale, 8k obo. Im dont and Im buying a 1999 audi A4 avant VR6 w/5 speed. the thing about it is that the boost levels were dropping which made me think it was an apex seal. =-/ I dunno they will find out at the shop thanks for all the help guys and diesel for the slight cheering up. =-)

driving tonight and all of a sudden I get this gadadadada tapping noise coming from one of the components, it sounds bad like supercharger but I dont know if its the supercharger or not. what does a jumped apex seal sound like? this sounds like tap tap tap tap and increases when revs increase. but you hear in inside the car, its not a rod I know what that sounds like, taking it in tomorrow.

hehe I can get another easily =-)

yep it helped I just realized that it would only put about 26.5 lbs of fuel per hour in my system unless I got a 4 bar FPR which I dont think I want or need, anyone want 3 volvo turbo injectors?

ok so I checked the wiring on the O2 sensor and rewired it using solder instead of contact fittings, this changed nothing except my peace of mind that my o2 sensor isnt the problem. once again the car lopes and shudders at idle, and is pretty slow to get up to revs, once revs are up they are fine but there is a loss of power throughout the whole powerband. TIMING IS DEAD ON, O2 sensor is ok (checking voltage readings tuesday, how do I do this BTW?) BTS is ok recently replaced. anyone? Im thinking quite possibly that the ignition coil, voltage regulator, or something delivering spark power to the engine could be weak? hence why it jumps when I put more gas in, not enough spark to burn all the gas and hence the lower power and backfiring? going to test ignition coil, anyone got any values to reference from? and how do I test the voltage regulator?

they come from a 1997 volvo 850 T-5. I was wondering what size they were because I might use them on my C. they look big....

my engine lopes at idle once I get the revs up I get some decent power, but starting off the line is slower than shiot. I press the gas in 4th gear at 2000 rpms and my engine starts jumping, this happens in all gears if my revs arent high enough, before it just did nothing. now it jumps. also I backfire some pretty decent sized flames says my friend. o2 sensor wire maybe?, o2 sensor is semi new so I know its not that.

rgr that thanks

if I feel vibrating everywhere, pedals, steering wheel, somewhat on the shifter, seat, when I accelerate, which engine mount is fried?

something like that Supercharged, I am checking to see how much I actually lose to the AFR itself, other than that the car screams like a bat out of hell and I

got my car back today, HAHA only 3 days more than it should have been. I DROVE THE CAR UP A HILL AND THE TEMPERATURE WENT DOWN! OMG IT WORKS! only problem I have now is the idle being erratic, and the backfiring/no power issues. I belive that the AFR gauge I have is pulling 2 much juice from the AFR and is causing messy signals in the ECU, AFR comes off this weekend unless someone can give me a reason not to.

I am researching High end digital security systems and I need to figure out what to get, something close to OEM with digital signal. anything would be great, and I dont want crappy remotes, I want to be able to program a MK4 remote for it.

*crosses fingers* dont get it back till monday tho, thanks henny :-)

thats correct cause I had 2 and they both didnt seal correctly, I have a shop putting in a new G60 headgasket and timing it right now.

okay george =-)

its gonna be loud, trust me.... 1 intake makes a huge difference, 2 and there will be sirens on ure ass.

recently replaced the line and its the correct length so its not that.

how much louder do you think it would be, and of course are we sure that there is no improvement in hp or torque here?

naw man I have one but im throwing coolant out left and right, not the ecu.

hi chris, we've chatted before

ok guys, sorry but I ahve to say I am done dealing with this thing, I have scheduled an appointment with the local shop and am taking it in thursday, the copper headgasket didnt seal so I am leaking coolant into the engine and out of the front of the engine. I am going to order a multi layer headgasket and hope it does the job, hopefully it will. im kinda done with dealing with this issue.