potatonet

they cancelled all bidding darn.... thanks bc tho

found them on german Ebay but its in german, and they dont ship worldwide... =-(

I need mounting plates from FK, FKAM903. anyone know where I can get mounting plates for their N-look electric sport mirrors?

there is one above the catalytic converter (now just a pipe), and one above the main exhuast pipe that follows the cat, (the second heatshield towards the rear of the car (2nd in the exhaust tunnel) under what would be the rear seats, will removing this do anything, I think it will heat up more of the underside of the car, otherwise Im talking out my arse...

ok so my exhaust heatshield or glasspack is making a wonderful rattle noise that I have to get rid of, wondering if I remove the heatshield if this will cause the interior to get really hot, I have heavy duty sound deadening and insulating material in the interior right now so can i do the removal without any issues of heat and the interior getting hot...?

I followed the bentley to the dot, there is no failure of the gasket as there is no coolant in oil and vice versa. what BBM said is that you have to have both surfaces very flat (milled) and a lot of copper gasket maker, which I did both of. I am not losing any water, I only lose water if I step on it which causes it to boil over and I can still rarely do that without losing water, so this is why I think its AFR related. if the head was warped I would be losing water, and if it was cracked (even hairline) I would be losing water all the time, there would also be a significant amount of collant seepage as well. this is not happening. I gas it (no to full throttle) and it will get pretty high, I dont gas it (keep revs lower that 4k) and the engine is as happy as can be, low temps yadda yadda. bad AFR and a very lean mixture is what Im thinking here. the co pot is at 520 ohms. Im thinking neupseed chip as it does it moreso when its cold, chip could be getting bad signal from (air density sender?/co pot?) making it think the air is hotter making less fuel go in. I also think my pump is going cause I can hear it, it also turns on at random times when the car is off. yeah I know thats wierd.... or you could all be right and my headgasket is leaking, but hence the issue of not losing water... =-/

henny does your "weeping headgasket" cause you to lose any water from your coolant system? I think I narrowed it down to AFR issues, I was on the freeway and I never once floored it, my AFR was telling me "lean as a mother" and my temp was going up, I never got it to the point of full throttle switchness... could be the neuspeed chip, could be the fuel pump... what else affects the air to fuel ratio on G60's? my O2 sensor is pretty recent so I dont think its that.

whoa thats one expensive switch....... anyone got a better price than 104us, about 60 UK pounds! as I was driving today I did notice there could be something else, if the fuel pressure wasnt great enough because of a failing pump, I believe this would cause the cutting out at idle and the backfiring, but would this low pressure cause a lean mixture in the system? the backfiring only goes right when I turn on the car so could it be low pressure to start and as I start driving it builds more pressure, thus not doing the backfiring while I drive or cutting out?

yeah I have a FMOC thats about half the size of the radiator for a G60, oil temps stay about 188-192F which is perfect. Ill just replace the switch, WHERE do I get one because I keep hearing things about these switches but ETKA only replaces the WHOLE ENTIRE throttle body and I dont want to pay 242 US for a TB.... any help would be appreciated. Im so frustrated with the heating thing, Im kinda with henny on the weeping headgasket though because I dont think the torque values were the same all around when I tightened them. Does anyone have a SOLID torque number to torque to? not this 1/2 turn after the final turn BS that the bentley gives.

THE OTHER problems that I am having are that my idle is hard to adjust easily (stays about 750 no matter what happens to the screw). when I untwist the screw I feel like Im losing boost there or something... =-/, where do I get the O-ring if this is the problem? AND my AFR gauge is reading fluctuations in the mixture at idle. it will read rich then back to ok, rich then ok, only does it once the sender is warmed up, otherwise it reads rich. what are the conditions if your CO pot sensor is going bad, I just adjusted it the other day and it seemed fine while adjusting. it should sit at ok for the majority of the time and mine is cracked out, you can also read above that when it gets cold that it goes leaner as well. AND sometimes when my engine is warm my car wont go, then it will pick up and fly, the revs will go up but its like I got no power or very little, then it backfires and everything is back to normal and I take off... I thought it was the dizzy so I got a new one, nothing... still does it! when the engine is hot you will try to press the gas but you get no response and have to blip the throttle, it will then backfire a few times and go back to normal... anyone got anything on any of these 3 topics, plus whether I should get a copper headgasket again or not... =-) thanks Jonathan

is there any easy way to fix a weeping headgasket? IE tightening head bolts or is this a bad idea because they are stretch bolts... I have a copper headgasket and I am probably going to buy another one to fix this, unless someone can give me a reason not too... this would be the perfect time for a 2.0L conversion... no money = replace the headgasket... =-(. when i replaced the headgasket last time I torqued it correctly but the values obtained by my torque wrench were not the same on all 10 bolts, because of that extra 1/2 turn, I turned it into two 1/4 turns, got something different every time, its really easy to do i just dont want to keep doing it. kinda like my transmission...

hmmmm sounds like a plan thanks, yes same problem just easier to repost new topic, looks like a couple hundred dollars in parts and another saturday morning.

ok so the corrado keeps cool until I hit the gas pretty much, once I do that it will sit at about 200F. I have replaced a lot of crap, o-ring flanges, etc, the only thing I notice thats out of phase is that the Air/fuel ratio sensor says that my AFR is leaner when it gets cold outside, IE it fluctuates between OK and lean a lot! never in the Green (good) range.... anyone got anything. Only when I hit the gas, and only leans out like that when its cold, always drives hot with a 180F thermostat! fan is always on I just want to fix it! Timing was set today 6 degrees advance (in stock specs). the coolant BOILS over and explodes out of the top of the expansion tank, I get coolant inside from the hold in the firewall, running too hot for some reason? which sensors could do this? list them all and I will buy them all! Im tired of dealing with an overheating modded G60!

I say get this http://www.bahnbrenner.com/media/php/ca ... &catid=112 cause its what I have and I throw 16 psi at it like darts at a dart board and it just says HMMMMMMMM

rgr that, thanks Darren, Jonathan

so I have those main supercharger mods, also have high flow hoses, should I go 30# or 42#, In the future is planned big valve head and 2.0L conversion, keeping it 8 valves though, I like the torque. so anyone know which to go for and why, I have a chip by neuspeed but If I bought the injectors I would have SNS make me a custom map for my setup with my cam and what I have listed. so any help would be appreciated. I do realize that 30# is not actually 30# its more like 35# with the FPR that I have. also how much gas mileage will I lose by doing this? also whats the bosch number for the 30# injectors? is it 0280150945?

oh how many times we see different not starting things, man oh man. first off your plugs are completely drenched correct? well what I would do is take a plug out and watch the fuel, the fuel should be spraying in spurts when you try to start it, if it just sprays constantly your ECU needs some work on the interior electronics, check your main diodes to see if there are continuity issues between the sides. other things I may suggest are to get another ECU off of ebay or take a car somewhere to get it checked out, find out if you are near any of the good performance shops on this forum they can probably help you. Im going with ECU on this one cause mine did this... the problem is that it sprays fuel straight and no pulsing, bad data from the ECU, flooded the engine so that it couldnt even start. fuses lie! :twisted: any other conditions that we may need to know about? oh yeah check ure CO sender see if its working, it controls fuel mixture, just worth a try... probably not it tho.... If you are saying you get no spark at all, and you are just trying to start it with a plug out to see if you get spark and you get none then

ok so I found there is no size difference between the audi A4 and the corrado, its the same size plate, I won some audi mirrors off of ebay and i'll try them out, and let you know...

gsbellew, love the drawing mate

never had the taxi problem here in the states, taxi's here are minivans and big estates.

um, as long as your 16V corrado is a cable shifter and its an 02A tranny then yes it will fit!, my corrado has one from a 16V passat in it, =-). I have blown 2 now, looking to buy the quaife kit and a LSD, there's a chunk of money for ya!

my corrado was made in 10/89, my vin's last 4 are 61##, I think I beat VeeDub, I am US too.

anyone know what the size difference is between an audi A4 and a corrado's mounting plates on the door? I know they attach right before the window on the upper part of the door but how different are the pieces?

yeah those inpro lights really do need to have black housings... someone throw a few pics of A20Lees car up here, I love that thing.

well what my problem is, is that I have 93 VR6 fogs from the UK and I need a way to get them in, well they dont fit properly, something is hitting, what I need to do is to get the fogs from a VR and put the whole assembly in but it looks like there is a piece of plastic that the blinker notches fit into well mine dont fit, AND the blinkers are angled differently between G60's and VR's so I need the fogs anyway but getting them into the bumper should be interesting,