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aide

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Posts posted by aide


  1. Can you post a link mate I'm terrible at finding stuff on the net , where do you find all these artists is there a certain place or just word of mouth I never seem to find good music but then people like you come along a stick links up for ace stuff I've never heard of

     

    here you go for M0, album out in March.

     

     

    Dead easy to find this stuff mate, I just check out http://www.indieshuffle.com 'latest' tag on daily basis, you can follow them on facebook too. After a while you'll see the bloggers who post stuff you like, and then you can follow them.

     

    Also listen to a lot of DJ's like zane low and annie mac who are always pushing new stuff. If you have patience for it there's a lot on http://www.soundcloud.com, but you have to wade through loads of rubbish.


  2. No you're not weird, I had a gt2 and loved it, space permiting I'd get one tomorrow. My dad gave my sister a mark 1 as a first car which she let rot away in London - still irks me now!

     

    agreed they look their age, but they are beginning to get achieve that quirky cool angular look when compared to all the curvy stuff on the roads today.

     

    i really don't like the mark 3's either, Though I wouldnt say no to the r version....!


  3. Now you've done this mod would you recommend this to others.

     

    I did this years ago to a valver but I wouldn't again - but i don't blame ones trying it out!

     

    It sounds better because you're letting induction pulses partially escape rather than reflecting them back into the system where they aide cylinder charging, this equals less efficient cylinder charging and lower power. At idle/ in traffic ambient intake temps rise equals less dense air and less power. At speed there's a lot of turbulent air in the engine bay, by chopping the airbox you're allowing that air pressure/ vacuum to influence the induction system, further the stock system uses a funnel type arrangement to gather air from behind the headlight to generate a positive static charge in the induction system when moving, that static pressure cannot be generated if there's hole behind the intake = loss of power.

     

    Like I said, i've done it and it sounds nice and there's probably a placebo power effect, but I would never do it again :)


  4. depends on the grade of stainless twin wall flue liner, 316 cheapest, then 316/904, with 914 most expensive. they'll all do the job, but 914 will outlast the others.

     

    for 914 i got quoted £160 linear meter fitted by two different people, plus £200 for ancillaries, you'll get the 316 for half/ third that price per linear meter.

     

    job takes a few hours for 2 men, access should be via an aluminium tower.


  5. the reason for this mod is the 1.8 valver ran lean at high revs, so theory is you get a slightly richer mixture at top end by adjusting the control pressure to the metering head, don't expect night and day performance difference.

     

    first you need to be able to identify system and control pressures, so as steve says above you need pressure dial/ pipe/ fittings. the system pressure needs to be set at 72psi. standard WUR pressure ranges from 49 to 55psi depending on engine temp. I set mine at 48psi, again as steve says above.

     

    bear in mind you need the engine to be at full temp, so the bimetallic strip in the WUR is at maximum bend and is metering the supply at full engine temp.

     

    at the same time you should check your c02 and timing advance (6/7 degs recommended).


  6. meet the ignition switch screw = the smallest, most inaccessible, body contorting, back hurting, stuff falling in your eye whilst undoing screw EVER!

     

    i filed nail grooves all way round edge to make it easier to turn most way back in.

     

    [ATTACH=CONFIG]76201[/ATTACH]

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