aide

i got knocked off a bike two years ago, classic commando roll across the lady's bonnet (she pulled out without looking properly) ripped jacket and bruises so i was lucky, her bonnet was fine!

so as a cyclist who drives daily I do mutter at some cyclists attitudes, and particularly those who meander all over the road, wear earphones (i mean c'mon), roll through red lights or hop on/ off pavements to avoid lights etc.

i thought it was just structural rust that caused MOT fail, could be wrong.

sounds like i had rust in exact same place and i cut the worst out, welded panel in then fillered and painted inside and out - see page 6 of my project thread via link below!

Got the car booked in the for a pre mot check on Tuesday, and then proper MOT on Friday. Stripped the lighting loom out as I've no sidelights with it, and then swapped the recarro seats for standard, decided to hoover it whilst the seats were out and thought it looked kinda nice mid hoover :)

True, you have to get stuck in, check out vrowner85 thread to see someone whose home sprayed to a decent standard.

Yeh live in Belfast, I'm a blow in, moved over in 2005 :)

if you're not precious about a show car finish, are feeling brave and have the time to commit to it, then consider the '50 dollar paint job' :)

good results can be achieved... http://www.meguiarsonline.com/forums/showthread.php?40341-My-quot-rustoleum-50-roll-on-paint-job-quot

i think we should be saying thanks to you (& mods and others) given the amount of archived know-how you and others have logged on this forum!

have you got a bentley manual for the wiring diagrams?

Defo need to make sure rob, from what I remember when doing mine TDC on cylinder 1 needs to be checked against the pulley wheel, flywheel through inspection hole and the chain gear markings.

I thought I had mine correct until I checked the chain gears.

x relay?

i think you need to get an auto electrician to do proper wiring trace to ascertain why you're not getting power/ signal to the coil - you've pretty much changed everything that usually causes this!

If it was me;

- Standard air box and regularly replaced paper filter

- Oversized throttle body

- Smoothed as far as possible and port matched inlet tract

- Refurbed or new injectors

- Port matched and gas flowed head inlet side, mirror polished and port matched outlet

- If you could stretch to it, bigger valves and angled seat job

- smoothed standard manifold or 6 branch

- sports cat or decat

- Cams

- Remap

- Overbore

- Balanced rotating parts

- 3.68 final drive.

as guys above say, remap and cams get you furthest along the route, larger tb and 3.68 final drive has to be high on the list too.

Personally think that handling and stopping are more important mods than power at the outset, powers nothing without control to use well worn cliche.

a few years ago there was a guy on here (bananawhip) who took the vr6 n/a nearly as far as you can without losing base idle, i think he topped out at 240bhp and similar lb/ft, eventually he went forced induction :) to be fair he did say he missed the na approach though.

Nice purchase, always liked that motor.

Had the same issues as you, and mines now running, was alarm immobiliser in my case. The ticklist of stuck to check, which you've done most of I think;

Two relays 109 and 67

ignition switch, will crank fine still if broken, but will not power the ecu to deliver spark

crank position sensor

coil

dizzy or coil pack

leads

alarm imobiliser

ecu

After that lot you're into the fuse box and wiring.

Tow bar. Caravan.

​Sorted :)

i lived in Devon for years and used to travel all over Cornwall too, there was hardly any corrados back then, so bet there's even less now.

looks like one of those ionisation/ magnetic things.

think pete is suggesting changing entire rubber line from fuel rail to the hard lines that travel through the chassis, arrive in engine bay near the steering linkage. did mine few years ago, just used halfords pipe, 7mm i think the bore is.

Those useless ecotek things are generally located on a vacuum pipe to the inlet manifold.

Yes Rob thanks, pm me your PayPal.

Cheers Alex, i might get back in touch if youre removing a working set up... I might find its the ecu yet.

Want a tenner plus postage for it?!

Nice one cheers Rob.

Nice one Dave, let us know when the badges are ready!

been doing a bit of reading, understand the dizzy and coilpack coils are in fact different, something to do with how they're triggered. have to give it a miss i'm afraid.

still on lookout for a dizzy coil for testing...

i'm guessing the coil would be the same same, how much you want posted?

if yours is a later vr it would be coilpack distribution and not dizzy.

tracing a non starting fault and cant find parts local, need;

- known good coil

- mines an early vr, so known working dizzy and hall sender

now need help with this one - ive searched but cant get definite answer on whether a dizzy vr has a crank position sensor, figure i may as well get a known working cps to test if they do????

cheers.

Yep as above, parts manager is good as gold, ive emailed lists of obscure parts and he'll get them, he's double checked and corrected incorrect/ obsoleted parts numbers and let me know correct version, discount never an issue either....

Then there's the other guy, always huffy, engine code or reg number not good enough, always needs the chassis number even for generic parts. Last week ordered a fuel pressure regulator, I was presented with an oil pressure sender!