owen g60

If your after a boost gauge I have one ready mounted in the drivers air vent.(early spec vents) It is now surplus to my requirements as I've fitted Audi 80 gauges

Just for info Venom motorsport are doing these at £90 posted Just ordered one myself

I have a couple of spares

If he doesnt have the ECU i have a couple of spares sat in my tool box

seems like you dipped out there... the one i got from GSF was a Valeo one and it had the gasket with it. Suppose its just pot luck with them as to what you get... Mine even had the VW/AUDI logo and part number on the plastic upper part

Heres a pic

do your matts have the plastic inserts in them to go over the screws?? I have 2 screws just no bits to secure them to the matts.... they should be push fit

one of two methods. 1: Solder sucker... heat the solder with a soldering iron then quickly use the solder sucker to suck up the liquid solder. 2: Solder wick.... lay it over the solder then heat with the soldering iron and it will soak up the solder

Couldn't find a thread on relay repair so thought I would make one. 1: Remove the relay from its position 2: Sit it with terminals facing up 3: Prise it open using a small screwdriver on the 2 securing clips You should end up with this 4: Remove the plastic base plate and wobble the terminals you will probably find a couple loose. Look at the corresponding solder joint on the under side of the board. The loose pins will have a crack in the solder. 5: Desolder the pins 6: apply fresh solder 7: Reassemble the relay when cooled. 8: Refit to relay panel. This should work with 99% percent of relay types. And you should never have to buy a relay again Enjoy

Hopefully going to rescue the rado from a mechanic who doesnt have a clue about how the PG engine and electrics work... despite giving him the bentely manual. Had to diagnose the fault myself after he changed the dizzy as i was getting no spark and still was the same after he changed it. His reasoning was no feed from the hall sender so dizzy had to be changed... didnt think if it wasnt getting a feed it wouldnt produce one :( Asked him to check coil had 12V and that boost gauge illuminated before turning engine.. they did.. ruled out immobiliser cutting feeds. Asked him to check ISV buzzes before turning engine... it didnt... rules out ecu as feed isnt getting that far. Asked him to check 12V feeds to ECU relay... battery constant present and 12V present on ingnition on... no feeds out however. ECU relay dead... Am going to kick off if they try to bill me for a dizzy as it isnt needed. Will also give it a wash as its been stuck with them for 2 weeks whilst ive been working away. Fingers crossed for a successful day

did you get the fueling sorted?? If it is still misfiring after this look at replacing your ECU relay... I had mine misfiring even after having my timing and fueling checked... the mechanic changed the dizzy for some reason. Turned out it was the ecu relay.... easiest way to check this is to turn the ignition on... not starting the engine tho... and check if the ISV buzzes.. Perform this several times if on any one of the tests it doesnt buzz then your relay is at fault.... It took me about 35 tests to get the ISV not to buzz so it can be very hit and miss

Now finished the rebuild. Just got to decide which badge to use This Or this

Finished the paint on the charger. I will be replacing all the bolts tomorrow evening... Am going to break it open to clean out any overspray and to be sure everything is seated correctly before I install it at the end of the week

Where was your charger last serviced?? After stripping a couple of chargers in the last few days i have seen some recently work that looks like it had never been serviced. The charger i just stripped last night had apparently been done in November 2010 and i had the paperwork with serial numbers to match and the seals basically fell out as i pulled the cases apart... Im sure John has seen very similar situations in his years of servicing G laders

That may be part of your problem. Is there any history of the charger being serviced?? As this sounds very much like the apex seals are on there way out if the power is coming on in bursts.

After a few hours lat night and a few this afternoon i have dont the rebuild and porting on my charger that i had spare. State of play last night How it stands now Tomorrow it will be getting a new coat of paint before fitment when the car comes back from the garage as it is having starting issues again.

I would prefer a full set as i do not want to re tumble any locks. Will keep it in mind tho

Poole / Bournemouth area Can travel if it's a good one

Bump Any body able to help??

Hi guys, Im after a shell for a friend who has just had his front end smashed in by a Shogun.... the chassis leg has come clean away and he doesnt want to run it after getting it repaired. What is there about at the moment... preferably rust free with sunroof.

what sort of price to get this done?? I have a spare throttle body in my tool box and was considering getting it done

just gone back over a few of my old pics of the car. from top to bottom... stickers 1,2 & 4 were on the fan cover... the other was on the rocker cover near the filler cap

that would be my guess. check the fuse. disconnect the connector on the bottom and give the contacts a good squirt with contact cleaner.

yes the golf vr one and the corrado g60 ones are definitely the same. before you replace it lift the plastic cover on the left hand side of it as you look at the engine... there is a fuse in there... 50 or 80 amp... cant remember which. i replaced this fuse as it was blown and allowing the fan to stay on constantly its the part circled in the picture... part 25

The black box is the after run fan module. They are common to vr golfs and g60s. Possibly others to