owen g60

cheers... hope this sorts my electrical gremlins

ah ok digifant powered fine.... will suggest that the guy looks doen the back of the engine for a red/black wire with crimp possibly still attached. would explain why the problem was intermittent... probably as the crimp worked its way out of the housing

jackpot thats what is missing... i have same coil as you... any idea where the red/black comes from??

nope mines a round one where should the red trigger come from??

1992 K reg

defo no trigger wire... only 2 terminals on the coil.... 3 pin one that the black goes to... 2 pin one that the green goes to... and output to the distributor

havent got the car in front of me right now... if i remember correctly i have a green wire going to -ve on coil and a black wire going to +ve... was about 12V when i checked it... also appeared to drop to 10v whan cranked

latest news from the garage... Hall sensor has input and output from ecu. ignition circuit ok ecu earth ok ecu relay ok fuse 15 (ISV, Deceleration fuel cut off, electronic ignition ok) still looking but as yet no spark

*crys* a little as my G60 is in with the doctor at the moment :(

It stopped running again before I got round to it. It's a non runner at the moment no spark from the plugs. Have cleaned the distributor cap and rotor arm. Voltage pulses to coil when turned over. Am suspecting hall sensor, gonna let garage look at it as I'm lost

Still no joy... Fan doesn't seem to cut in... Will see how it performs with isv disconnected

it is an instant cut out... no stuttering like it is fuel (fuel pump changed last week due to a perished o ring) i am suspecting it to be a hall sender issue as when it is let to cool for an hour or so it will then restart... but has started to do it since the temp sensor was changed. ---------- Post added at 10:49 AM ---------- Previous post was at 10:22 AM ---------- it may well be when the fan comes on as it has been when slowing down that i have cut out and not been able to restart ---------- Post added at 10:51 AM ---------- Previous post was at 10:49 AM ---------- it may well be when the fan comes on as it has been when slowing down that i have cut out and not been able to restart

Hi guys, I have just replaced the temp sensor (blue one) after having cold idle issues... now after running for about 20 mins the engine will cut out and not restart for about an hour. Once it has cut out the engine will turn.. if put in gear and turned the car will move forward. Temperature wise the car is getting no hotter than usual... about 95-102 degrees according to the MFA. Any suggestions

Just emptied the entire workshop at my local stealer.... only went in to pick up a temp sensor.... didnt have to pay either ... the joys of having a brother in law who works there... free stuff

Got a 4 wheel alignment and wheel balance... Was getting a little twitchy under harsh acceleration and braking... All seems good now... Just waiting on a new temp sensor from my stealer :D

sounds like a dead ignition barrel.... the fact your dash goes out when you turn the key says that the barrel is causing the short

If memory serves me correctly the corrado ones fitted a mk3... So I see no reason why it wouldn't work the other way round

you should be able to lift a little black cap off the motor and wind it with an allen key... you have to push the key in quite hard as there is a plastic insert that engages under pressure to allow the sunroof to be manually operated

Just added myself... appears there are 2 people within 500 metres of my house with them too

Replaced fuel pump.... fixed sunroof motor.... re-fitted front splitter.... removed crystal rear lights and replaced with smoked original ones. Been a good day.... now to treat the tiny bit of rust appearing on the rear nearside arch/sill.... best to catch it early :)

New clocks now fitted with old dials... All now in working order thanks to Mk3-Damo for the new set at a reasonable price

which pin does that run from on the back of the clocks??? and where would be the easiest place to connect it to, so it has a constant live???

New clocks on route.... should know tomorrow if the problem is solved :)

I have had near enough the whole driver side of the dash apart.... on looking at the earth point on the a pillar there is a red and a black cable both going to one earth point. The red wire is broken and i cannot see the bit that has broken off..... can anybody remember if the common earth for the speedo and rev counter was red??? and if the fuel/temp gauge was black. would explain why i get random infor on the odo with temp and fuel working and no speedo/rev counter as the speedo and rev counter have a common earth and are linked to the MFA. Thoughts/corrections to my theory please

well i have found a set on ebay for £40... could always switch the dials so i still have the DDI facia on them i suppose... hopefully my brain will cooperate and find the issue. Just seems odd that it all fell over together within the blink of an eye