edd

well hows this come out this morning to find some T##T has done a hit and run and taken out the rear o/s panel twice!! 2 10cm square size dents. Cant believe it how do they live with themselves, worst thing is it was probably done in a big f-ing suv and they didn't even notice the'd done it, should be off the road. It drives me mad i actually watched an old guy the other day in a rover covered in dents reverse park into the space in front of the c and actually wait for the bump before he pulled forward and then waited for the next bumb before he reversed into the middle of the gap. I was stood there watching in utter disbelief and he just got out the car as if nothing was wrong and walked off. Jees i had to just walk away before i lost my rag. How good are these mobile dent repair guys...anyone? if it wasn't that it was pissed kids could be knee sized dents, then we have a real problem, but there is the offending bumper black marks so im going tell myself that wasn't the case!! Edd

Cheers I agree with what most of you are saying but i cant really empahsize what a cock up the last respray on the car was. Looks as though the guy just kept on spraying as many layers on as he could to try and hide any lack of preparation imperfections, its so thick. Paint has cracked all the way down the lines on the bonnet and also seems to have "slipped" around the washers etc its even manged to crack on the flat areas. The Sprayers reasoning was thats its such a mess he was worried there was filler underneath it (which im fairly sure there isnt as am conviced it was a cheap "pre car sell" mate spray to get a better price, hide the inevitable stone chips etc. Paint is also just flaking off all around the front bumper. So anyone got any advice on stripping it. Am off to get another quote later this week, but just want to try and avoid aome of the labour costs cheers Plus have you seen the price on a replacement Corrado bonnet!!!

hey The front end of my C is looking a little worse for wear, the off side front wing is rusting around indicator and the bonnet and front wing have been resprayed previous to my ownership with what one can only imagine as abolutely F all preperation causing all the paint to crack off. I have a quote from a chap who has done work on my cars before (who i know is good) for £700 plus materials (more like £900). This is basically doing the whole front end, and blending into the doors. Problem is its a little bit more than i was hoping and he reckons the cost is due to the hours and hours of labour he needs to strip it back down to bare metal (which is necessary in this case) and sand down the bumper he was basically trying to persuade me to strip it down myself, which brings me to 3 simple questions how do you do it, how easy is it to do and what tools do i need. Any advice will be massivley appreciated.

Situation: Have passenger side delocked but not drivers side because my alarm is bu**ered, so wouldnt be able to get into car, I also have no boot key. Central locking works fine. I also have a spare drivers side rear passat handle and mech in the garage. Problem: Drivers side door handle just broken; am off tripping it round the country tomorrow for easter but can go via scrappy....... oh and shes costing me way too much and the moment (the car) The Question: Can i use a passat front drivers side door handle on the C with the passat mech ive got in the garage. (if i can get one cheap enough) and is it easy enough to swap over the locks from my broken handle. If not am i right in thinking a new C handle is pushing £100 and id be better off getting a new alarm and fully delocking.....Next month tho after 2 weeks of gettin in through the passenger side!! Ideas folks im open to them.

just fitted new front pads at the weekend and i am now getting a knocking sound from the front left pads at very low speeds (at least i think thats where the noise is from, well put it like this it didnt make the noise before!!) i.e. 5- 10 mph its goes away at other times and when the brakes are applied, otherwise brakes are operating fine. Its like the pads arent seated properly and are moving around a bit. Taken wheel of all was tight down there any ideas Edd

tell me about it bro mine drives me round the twist just one thing after another but nothing ever major... yet!!.. touch wood. But enough to keep her off the road for a day each week. Anyhow set of pipes for my 16v were expensive piced at nearly 70 quid for four not even complete set but i did go to VAG cos i needed em quick. Moaned and moaned to the parts guy though and he gave me them for £48. Well chuffed. Im certain my pipe issues came after i changed top rad hose. Pulled the top collar off oil cooler as i pulled pipe off. So new cooler was required, just rusty and bu**ered. Anyway transpired it had leaked oil throughout cooling system and degraded all the rubber. went through one pipe a week for the next month!! so annoying. Do therm all at the same time if you can afford it bro. Still havent sorted my water loss yet hey, did the expansion cap stop the leakage until the pipes blew!!

hey people I know this is a topic there are a number of threads on but none quite answer my question. Im losing coolant on my 1.8 16v i have recently replaced the oil cooler and all major pipes in that area. (expensive rubber!!). Not losing a great amount but enough to annoy me. Now if i take it out and get it really warmed up there are no visible signs whatsoever of water loss, steam etc but if i realease the expansion cap to top up after the car has cooled there is no release of pressure . I have recently nicked an expansion cap off the guy next door who was scrapping his passat because being a tit i left mine off and lost it!! No mayo to be seen. Now the question is the cap most likely to be the cause, will i definatley see the steam realeasing from the cap when the car is hot or could this go unnoticed. If not what am i gonna do!! Im gettin sad cos he seems to be off road almost 1 day in 7. Only100K, but i think maybe a hard 100k nosiy top end and clacky tappets :( When i say only 100k i mean got to six figures yesterday, dont want to seem like im asking too much its just i have a T25 VW VAN and hes done 220k and never broken down

Cheers Guys My mechanic rang me to say they had poblems when he was replacing the clutch cos he reckoned the previous clutch hadnt been installed properly and something was nearly rubbing on the gear casing!!!??. At least thats what i thought he said was at work and the time was stressed and wasnt really listening. Went to see him today anyway and he said he said to give it a week or two and if it doesnt go or gets worse take it in he'll try and sort it. Its got me worried now though maybe the tit who had it before did put it in wrong and has done more permanent damage! I know the chap who had it previous to the last owner was abit of an enthusiast!!. So am i but it doesnt always mean im good at fixing them!!!! Update in a week or two Cheers

sorry to pinch thread guys but just had a new clutch fitted on my 1.8 16v and now with the clutch fully engaged i get a high pitched rattle squeaky squealing tinkering Sound (think that just about explains it!) :lol: just a faint touch on the clutch pedal and the rattling goes, anyone recognise this? can i just adjust the clutch slightly to eliminate. If so, how!! Also just had top radiator hose go on me on way home from work. It really is something every sodding week at the moment! Grrr!

hey bro Had same problem with my speedowhen i bought car checked earths etc cos i had other electrical "issues" all fine so just fitted a new speed sensor was about 20 quid, works fine now

hey guys this should be a fairly easy one for you but ivebeen meaning to ask this for a while, by the clock adjustment buttons on the front of the dash there is and plastic cap that when removed looks like an lead input (for a computer tester or something like that) From the forum i get the impression VAG COMs input is down by the gearleaver (or box cant remember). Now i have a 91 1.8 16v and my mechanic tells me my model doesnt have the VAG Com thingy. Can somebody enlighten me as to wether i do, if so is this the imput; and if i dont what is this! Cheers guys

hey bro Sometimes have a very similar problem on my C Usually only under slight braking but certainly very inconsistently. Just every so often. (you can emergency stop it and itll be straight as) had laser alignment tracking done which sorted the pull to right but not the veering. Had the car looked over all was fine but suspension bushes etc were original. its a 91 and suspension wear was thought to be the cause, but havent had mine done yet. Just letting you know tracking might not sort it, (as i am sure you are probably aware!!)

Have a look at this site buddy http://www.carsoft.ru/avtorepair/volkswagen.html there should be a link to corrado wiring diagrams for they are in a pdf format so you need adobe but youll probably have that anyway. Dont be put off by the russian letters there is english further down the page the pdfs are english anyway.... I think!! edd

right lads sussed it finally!! My air intake unit behind the front right light is quite loose (not sure if it meant to be!!) anyway its movement over time had worn right through the insulation on three of the right lighting loom wires thereby causing them to short. cut them and reconected them with cable connectors and now all sorted no flickering fogs main beam spots everything sweet!! so close to callin auto electrician!! coulda been a 50 pound job rather than five. Anyway cheers for the suggestions. If anyone else has a similar problem maybe its worth a look!!

nah this driving me mad now wasnt the bulb it was the fuse, taken all the lights apart etc checked the connections and bulbs. all light circuits in engine bay look okay, but i am now almost certain the fogs have been rewired to work with main beam as well as their own switch. have suspicion they are fed from the right main beam switch though! maybe thats what is causing the fuxe to burn now and the flickering before. Im gonna have to get the fuse box out though to see if there is anything weird goin on behind there. Have got full set off electronic circuit diagrams from http://www.volkswagen.msk.ru worth a look guys its in russian but has eng pdf files i suggest search on google to get the most legible page

cheers guys yep it was my fog lights that were coming on with the main beam, think they have defo been messed with to compensate for s**t standard lights. Interestingly my left spoltlight bulb (I think?? if i undesrtood gavins post properly!!) blew on the way home tonight so on full beam my right light is emitting nothing at all but i have a light on with them dipped. But this way i have no flickering whatsoever!!!!! (wehey) so at least i know that its something to do with the circuit on the right side now.

right then lads had another bit of a peek in the dark tonight cos im gettin a little frustrated, which lights are maent to be on with the full beam as it doesnt really make it clear in the manual. With my full beam on the foglight units are on. Not bright enough to be on as foglights but they are on and i think it is these imparticular that are flickering. Are these meant to be on in this situation. As i have had problems with the fuses blowing in the fogs and now think that they may have been wired by the past owner to come on with the full beam as there are a few odd wires under the hood. Problem is there is still remains of old alarm so its hard to tell whats what! Can anyone shed any light. I think its almost defo time for an auto electrician!! ouch ...££

hey bro had exactly the same problem with mine last week albiet it was pulling to right and heavier to the left. First stop tracking only to find that my front right was toeing in by 9mm. 16 quid 10mins later back on the road no worries. Thatd be the first check if i were you. Although make sure you dont get em at half five like i did cos i was back 10 days later for a re track this time front left was toeing out. i reckon they didnt tighten it up properly or something. It could well be worn balljoints too cos mine are starting to go but theres a fair chance the tracking will help.

messin around tonight and now find that if i hold the car on slight incline in reverse and move very slowly backwards with full beam on the lights will dim/flicker as before but not as the clutch is released to its biting point but as it pressed away from it. i.e car is allowed to roll forward. Shed anymore light?? Think maybe it is alternator though as am finding if i keep in high gear at slow speeds (low revs) so the c is close to stalling light are definatley at their dimmest. The c is also idling at just a touch over 1000 revs, which it has done since ive had it, its 1.8 16v. is this a little high!! cheers

cheers will have a look, if all seems fine connection wise is it likely to be a case of a new alternator then, like i said its pushing out a consistent 13.8V with engine running and stereos and fan on and stuff?

heys folks Got an interesting problem on the C when changing gear with the full beam on the lights flicker and momentarily lose their brightness (or should i say dullness, no uprated loom yet!!), prob flicker for about two seconds. If i hold the car on a hill in first with clutch on its biting point they will do it for a longer period of time. i.e. just as the engine is put under load. A friend mentioned it may have been an earthing problem as the engine shifts on its mounts slgihtly under acceleration. I have since fitted a new direct earth from engine block to battery negative, this seems to have helped slightly but its certainly not been eliminated. anyone got any ideas??? voltmeter over battery is reading 13.9 volts and pretty stable.

right so my last post stated that my speedo wasnt working now this ones pleading for someone to explain to my ingnorant mind whats exactly going on between the c's gearbox and instrument panel. The last post stated that my speedo was working intermitently will work fine for first five minutes of trip then gradually goes downhill, coming on and off as and when ity feels like it. Its drops in and out as if there is a dodgy earth but when its working everything is fine i.e spoiler, speed registered etc. Now ive checked the back of the IP and all connections seems fine as do the connections on the sender unit. The black plastic unit on top of the gearbox by the linkages... Yes?? i am looking at the right thing???? so while im coming home with my spoiler coming up and down like a tarts knickers as the speedo plays its stupid little game with me i thought sod it ill disconect the wires from the speedo sender..... what happens....the speedo carries on as before, but is still workin half the time. Now i realise something is flawed here what i want to know is before i shell out the pounds at the stealers, is it me or the car. what are the wires i disconnected and does the speedo have another sensor it reads from. cheers :x :x :x

nah spoilers fine when the speedos fine just drops back down if up when the speedo drops. so a new sender unit i figured after checkin it all yesterday that was prob the case dont supose its the cheapest part in the book either. Cheer alex

Easy folks! The speedo on my 1.8 16v is really startin annoy me it cant decide wether to be on or off. Will be workin fine and then all of a sudden just drop off to nothing and stay there have a bit of a rest and decided later to come on back into action. Ive checked the connections and contacts on the back of the instrument panel and the sender unit and they seem fine i.e. solid contact clean etc. Ive read in past posts to check the earth at the sender unit but as far as i can see there is only two wires coming out of it a blue/black and red/black?? When the speedo drops i can hear a clicking from around the relay switches in the cabin (or that area) does the speedo run through these or is this the spoiler up down at speed thingy (excuse the terminology im no electrician) its a pain in the arse cos my spoiler keeps coming up and down every 30 secs on the motorway. Anyone got any ideas!!! oh yeah and it nevers happens at the beggining of journeys only after 5 mins or so!!