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Hey people been a while since i left working with a computer so havent logged on in ages, hope alls good on the forum. Its a VR On the way home yesterday the (cast??) alloy section on the throttle that the throttle cable feeds through and butts up against (the bulb bit of the cable at the engine end) sheared......so i only now have half a hole and no way to secure the cable to the throttle mech) Stealers told me today they think the part only comes as a whole on the throttle body (though they did tell me to come in and have a look for myself on ETKA, but i wont be able to till the weekend) which leaves me a honda CRV for the week which i fcukin hate Can anyone confirm this.....Also has anyone got a 2nd hand throttle they are willing to part with if the news is bad. Cheers folks Edd

T.T.T. i have exactly the same problem as aclwalker. Soaking wet left rear carpet but bone dry elsewhere any luck on finding the source!!?

I'm now with these guys having previously been with elephant for a few years, there unlimited mods up to 210bhp policy is good and customer service is excellent. On renewal elephant applied an increase of £180 for an sp30 conviction (my only conviction) and added approx £50 for every mod!! Only problem i did come across with these guys and almost all other brokers (apart from adrian flux IIRC) was that elephant had put me on a ten month "bonus" (or not) scheme and my last years no claims is not recognised so i effectivley lost a years no claims...so my insurance did not drop this year. But i do drive around with peace of mind.

Yeah spoke to them, even told them i was not going to renew my policy if this was the final outcome. The guy basically just said ok fine. I have had an sp30 on this policy previously but that was an offence from november 2000 so its over 5 years ago now, which is what they ask for when you give them the necessary details. (he said this was partly the reason, but i reckon thats b0ll0cks) To be honest i've calmed down a bit now as im thinking Brentacre will be by far the best policy fo me. Elephant charge £10 for any policy modification - number plate, address anything then around an extra £50 for the change i.e. alloys exhaust brakes anything. In all honesty because of this at the moment its a case of the "obvious" mods are declared, but not all. With the brentacre policy i can do anything. :D apart from supercharge. Have to say i was impressed with Brentacre customer service yesterday, looks like im just gonna have to wait "another" year to get a great deal.

Bit of a rant: Im proper narked with Elephant today. Its insurance renewal time and elephant have increased my renewal price by £200 for an sp 30 (was doin 40 in a 30). can't believe it. Plus cant have 3yrs no claims with anyone else because they put me on a bonus accelerator scheme so other insurers dont deem me to have a full 3yrs. They are now wanting £690 whereas Brentacre have said they will do it for £750 with any mods allowed up to 210bhp, with just the 2yrs no claims. Think im going to have to fork out the extra £60 and use Brentacre on priniciple. Bit guuted seen as the renewal price that elec**t dropped through my door was originally £440 Ffffooooookkkin gettts Edd

Ha ha thats still the original yours is still in my shed lol :D but i really wanna know what its worth, c mon folks

As title says, quite fancy one of these at the moment. I have put a lot of money into the Vr as it is/was supposed to be with me till the end of time, but if its not and i'm to recoup anything it needs to go soon. So what is it: 93 pearl green Vr lovely looking car currently running on the BBS alloys that came on the MK3 Golf VR6 16"s (diiferent to pic) full years MOT - went straight through last tuesday 4 owners one being an interim garage between sales. Massive history KONI TA's and H&R springs, 1yr old Magnex Cat Back, 1yr old Everything in great condition - tho there are the normal stonechips on bumper and bonnet and a slight cap park dint in drivers door Interior in great condition Sunroof will only tilt Stealth Geometry setup Full engine rebuild by Stealth Racing last September, rebore new Mahle pistons, bottom end rebuild, chains, new spec tensioners (the ones that dont wear), everything. Cost me in excess of £4000 by the end of it - was rolling roaded by Stealth once run in and got 198bhp. It will still loosen up somewhat yet. Rebuild carried out at 117000 now on 129000. Runs beautifully Sorry Mods this sounds like a for sale and its not because i would only sell it if its sale price enable me to be able to afford the above and not cry too much about the money i had invested. But ill stick in a price anyway to keep you happy - would like to achieve the £5000 mark if not a bit more - what does everyone think? Not actually for sale (yet) so can it be left in this topic please mods

with dr_mat here lets not kid ourselves you have got too look at all sides. Me: Full vw service history 2 owners both in their 50's great condition massive history looks and drives beautifully no significant smoke on overun etc so pretty much everything you would look for (not my first rado either) originated from central london (short journeys 'n traffic) but got out onto the open roads a few years into its life. After i bought it, it ran beautifully for approx 13-15K. Then developed a incredible thirst for the black stuff and a desire to run on 4 cylinders. Also decided it would like me to be the proud owner of a rather large bill from Stealth racing circa £3.5k. Now maybe not the norm but it does happen (I met a few people with similar casulaties at the VR hospital so i get the impression VR6 rebuilds are not an uncommon occurence at Stealth nowadays)...........but i always new it might happen (from spending time on here) so it wasn't so much of a i F**king hate this B88tard car im shot of it when it did. but don't stress about it, love it, in the unfortunate event that it does happens fix it because its worth it, Corrados still have a real uniqueness and they are worth every penny. By the way engine rebuild was at 117K. Look for a higher mileage car that has already had some engine work done by a reputable firm, and if you can, buy off here. Bargains aren't necessarily cheap.

Give the MAF and f-ing good spray with Carb cleaner im convinced thats what sorted mine. I.e take it off and give the element a real good spray (just dont break it!!! £££££!) A few other things i did at the same time that could have resolved the issues i had (which were the same as yours) are: moved dashpot as above Cleaned and lubed ISV (as its new just give it a lube in your case) Went to clean out ISV noise damper but bust it so now its been binned and bypassed Cleaned and lubed throttle body Twisted MAF position on its longitudinal axis. Basically ensuring the connector isn't knocking against anything with the movement of the engine check all air pipes for splits Resolved my issues Hope this helps Edd Otherwise my guess is a non fully operational MAF

right best quote £455 inc vat and delivery :D - just need to decide on offset - as they are Rh rims they come with the adaptors and bolts to enable the offset change etc. Im told i can take them down to an offset of 25 if i want. Can anyone confirm i shouldnt have any problems with this on my setup!! Please im scared eveything i buy always goes wrong!!

best thing is they are £115 per wheel... pretty reasonable for an Rh rim i reckon!

Hmmm might have to pay styledynamix a visit and see if i can get a butchers at some. what sort of offset would be ideal with these. Is it just a case of getting as close to the vr's 43 as possible or would it need to be less than that due to the extra width of the wheel and my desire to get a bit of the wide look! PHIL K Random question do you/did you work with a chap called Rob Castle? a good mate of mine from uni days - sure he told me he works with some one called Phil whos mad on corrados and uses this forum lots. Apologies if not Cheers Edd Keep the opinions coming people - im rubbish at making decisions!! specially when they involve ££££'s

Right firstly an apology mods kind of a replica post but i edited a previous post of mine that was originally slightly different topic and didn't get any replies. (im ready to order) So here's the wheel in question 16 x 8 offset says 50 in pic but styledynamix are checking that out for me. Will be on a vr you reckon they'll fit/look right? cars dropped 40 on H&R and TA's. Would like them to fill the edges of arches nicely if possible - want at least a touch of the wide ass look...but without the arch work...and keeping my lovely smooth suspension!! :D :D will want a slight stretch on the rubber Opinions and advice please..go on shoot me! (yeah and im not massively keen on the rim bolts either, but reckon they kinda work!) Edd

Quite like these but unsure about the offset and not that keen on the rim bolts, why these so much cheaper than the likes of MWZ1's. Edd

Kev what was the final drop you achieved on you TA and H&R setup i seem to remember you had some lowering caps up front and you can obviously drop the rears slight on the circlips to match. My springs have been on a year now and im wondering what the lowest drop i can get is. I do actually have a set of lowering caps from Venom that i was going to put on the front when i bought the suspension setup but i think they sent the wrong ones, they had a rounded top to them that and it didn't look like the top mount bearing would sit on it properly!! (if that makes sense). Anyway i digress How about 8 x 16 folks Edd

so who's setting up the group buy :D

EDITED PREVIOUS THREAD TITLE - SEE BELOW FOR RIMS IN QUESTION Well been using the search profusely but will still panic at ordering time if i dont have a specific response from someone in the know!! Basically the banks showing its time for some new rims. Running H&R +koni TA's and am very happy with them. dont intend to change to coillies Personally love the idea of running some wide deepdish rims..Brocks, Borbet's etc. What are the limits i can run without any immediate major work to arches etc. Would consider getting arches rolled at some point when the paints redone (6 months to a year) but the wheels must come before the paint!! Sure a few of you must have been in this exact situation before like the idea of 9x16 but am unsure if this is a) possible or b) would look okay with only a 40mm drop. Any advise welcome Edd

Well thought i might as well update. Having removed, cleaned and reinstalled everything air filter side of the throttle body and associated ISV pipework i have now been trouble free for 500+ miles. (usually started going kaputt about 80 miles after ECU reset) For any of you who may have a similar situation occur double check this lot before forking out the outlandish costs for VAG parts. having previously cleaned out the ISV and throttle body with carb cleaner to no avail i repeated the process but ensured i gave the associated a good grease with a spray on lube afterwards. (didnt have any lube before so didnt bother!!) Removed MAF and also gave the element a bloody good spraying with carb cleaner. Took off ISV noise damper and managed to completely destroy it in the process so that is now by-passed and sat in pieces in my footwell Twisted the position of the MAF so that the connector was on top as apposed to at the side. I have a BMC fitted and the connector seemed to be resting against a bolt in the engine bay wall. I wondered if this may have been causing a dodgy connection to the MAF if there was any engine movement (though nothing to this effect was showing up on the VAG com scan). Checked and cleaned the lambda connection in the engine bay. Though i dont believe this to be the root cause as i have had this intermittent error for a while, (way prior to the stalling issues). My money is on the MAF clean, but could of been the lube of the ISV after its spring clean. Anyway hope this helps, i was sh1t1n it for a while after being quoted £320+vat for MAF and £180+vat for dizzy (inc hall sender). I reckon a sticky on "stalling issues - possible rectification" thread may be a good idea. didn't get a lot of work done last week due to a lot of forum searching Cheers for help chaps Edd

"Borbet B in 9 with the detailed centre cap." definatley :luvlove:

cheeky get...just checkin! Cheers

Right so managed to destroy what i think is known as the isv noise damper whilst getting frusrated working on the engine in the dark last night. Ive had to bypass it. Is it necessary what exactly does it do! EH

Cheers for the update - just going through the exactly same issues! but refuse point blank to change a few items costing in excess off £600 from VAG on the off chance that they might solve the problem. Gave everything a real good clean with carb cleaner and then an light oil last night. all seems fine for the mo. Ill let you know how i get on though. EH

Did this get sorted??

update - well battery disconnected ECU reset again last night before driving home from work. so drove fine. Father had his Morris Minor dropped back home from having some work done so did him a favour and drove chap back to his workshops. Turns out next door workshop is a tuning place so got them to hook it up. Went through a simple diagnostic and it showed no faults whatsoever. Though it is obviously driving okay from reset anyway. I take it by this though i can probably eliminate a few things, because if they have failed they should show up immediatley .i.e. ECU issues some sensors etc. I was previously thinking it may have partly been a hall sender issue - would this show up on a scan. Does this result seem like its even more likely to be the MAF?! will go back when it starts muckin me about again and see if anything shows, any more thoughts now?!

well that was next planned thing for Vince but it was previosuly so intermittent that we couldn't get it to show up unless it was driven for a fair few miles. Kept replacing O2 sensors but got the same VAG com error so it must be the wiring. if this had become more intermittant what efffect would it have?