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Bo**ocks 150miles later ive gone full circle - stalled twice on the way in to work this morning. Also sometimes has hesitancey when pulling away from junctions almost like its missing or fuel starvation- not plugs/oil related as ive had full engine rebuild in last 10000k. I have just remembered that i do get an intermittent reading on the 02 sensor on VAG com - if this has become more severe could this cause the problem?? I dont understand why the ecu reset sorts the problem but only for a short period of time. The problem is there is so much to check and they all cost money!! Mines a dizzy too by the way. things that could be contributing??? hall sender, ECU, Dizzy, MAF,leads, Fuel pump any more.....do any stand out! Any more ideas anyone??!

go for it man....dare to be different. Someone give us a PShop!!

Well god knows but i dont hate my C so much today so im not so worried. Done 100 odd miles since the reset yesterday and shes flying and really smooth. Thanks for the offer Rich may well take you up on that when i get some time free. I work at Glos Hospital and actually bought my car from just outside Newent. We can try and fig out VAG com for ourselves. I think MAF discussion will be here to stay on this forum 4 ever.

to be honest with corrado's rust is the last of your worries!! spend a while on here and you will soon get the picture, bodys are pretty sound on them but they definatley aren't the cheapest cars to run especially in the Vr or G60 format. (I'm) Not in a happy corrado mood today!! EH

"I could whip the MAF off after a cold start and the engine would keep running no problem as there's no lambda for the 1st two minutes of startup" yep thats how mines is. Just done an ecu reset and taken for a spin no stalling yet and did feel noticeabley smoother. But thats a classic corrado trait they just pretend to let you think you've fixed em for a while. I'll see how it goes and report back.

Cheers..........of i go to go borrow a spanner!!

"If you then restart the engine, it should run fairly ok without the MAF connected" Yep you see this is the bit thats is confusing/worrying me as it wont run if started with MAF disconnected. But does die if disconnected whilst running. Does this indicate to a problem elsewhere in (ECU etc). Can't be arsed with this. Mines an early double pin connector for VAG com and don't know anybody close. Will require a trip up to see Vince, which will no doubt include a few hairy no power steering moments!!

Right sorry i know a pretty well covered topic but i got no immediate satisfaction/stress relief from the search so: Gutted cos im scared of the future of this path laid before me - having watched the forum long enough i have been dreading this day. "Vr's on a stall-a-thon." Probably stalled 15 times + on the way to work this morn. Happens pulling up to junctions. Feels like revs dying too quick and ISV not coping. Gave ISV a good clean yesterday alls fine there and throttle damper thingy seems okay. Dieing is very erratic seems to be no similarities between events. But it has been getting progressivley worse. Also get some erratic hunting at idle whereby the hunt gets greater and greater the more it seems to try and correct itself until it eventually dies. Question is: I was thinking that if the MAF was to blame i could just disconnect it let it go into basic mode and see if that stopped stalling, albiet with reduced perfomance levels, but when tried the car wont run with MAF disconnected, it will run for a few seconds then die. Is this right? I thought the car should run with it disconnected so as not to be stranded anywhere if it went wrong!! EH

cool £200 is exctly what i had in mind, not sure he'll agree mind. So what about getting the bolster back to its original colour is it possible?? ..expensive??

yep stealth = 3.5k got one of those bills too (and a nice engine to go with it)

Really that much!! even in part-x for my cloth. jeees i must be a tight arse. :)

Right not one to take advantage of a friend in need..... i have a pal who having installed an new engine in his C now can't get it running properly, so needs a bit of professional help. Having said that he's now skint and can't afford to get it back on the road. Now its a 16v with black leather interior - the interior is a bit worn on the drivers side back bolster, so that the colour has faded but otherwise not too bad. (how easily can the fading be sorted?) There is talk of an part exchange for my early vr interior - just seats not door cards (so will need to get my cards retrimmed at some point). Bearing in mind its not a necessity to me (i ultimatley would prefer beige leather interior) What do you reckon sounds like a fair offer??!! Thanks for any input Edd

Have to say the merc. my dad loved his mercs. I got to give his 500sl a regular spanking but for me the E series coupe is still one of the best he owned - and crashed (i can certainly be testiment to their safety). It was totally written off under a lorry and the only scratch he had was from the air back pushing his glasses into his face!! Not nice to think what could have been but ace thinking back to the boss of the recovery company in his V8 landy trying to drag the car out from under the lorry..... he was bunny hopping all over the place!! :) Deffo what i'd be buying if i didnt have an idiotic addiction to expensive vw's http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/1996-MERCEDES-E32 ... dZViewItem

Looking good Ian - car and weather Lived in Gisborne for a year - fantastic place miss it too bits! i shall be back someday with the vr in tow!! Edd

yep mine are now sh1t3 too

Just remember the Vrs "can" be expensive as they get older especially if they need any standard engine work doing on them - the chains, if bores are shagged new pistons, etc etc etc etc etc!!

Always loved this pic

regarding clutch noise try a search quite a lot of us who have/had this noise. Mine went after stealth replaced clutch.

i dont think the red ones are available anymore!!

Hey Peeps, Just a bit of advice really Have been offered a mint MK2 Golf Black Leather interior. He's asking £400 - what do you reckon. Being that i dont have a mk2 but would like on for the daily drive in the future. Just thinkin if its a good price i can prob sell on anyway if all doesnt go to plan!!

Gonna stick my oar in on this one cos its something i really pondered about before buying the Vr and i kinda think i was a little unlucky and got the worst case scenario. But its certainly given me a few opinions. For a bit of background I got my Vr for a sensible price back a year or so ago when they were fetching good money. looked at a lot of 90k milers in the £5-6k bracket that i just didn't feel were worth their asking price and after looking for about 6 months bought mine off a mature chap on the first day he advertised it. having a 16v at the time and using this site i knew what too look for and after looking around it, driving it, looking at the history etc it had just been looked after well. Anyway did 15k miles no worries used a bit of oil but nothing to worry (Its a vr) about and had a slight hint of chain noise (104k when i bought it) but that didn't bother me because id got that reflected in the price. Then it quickly went downhill started using more oil blowing loads of smoke on overun, some on acceleration and it was oiling up plugs 1 & 6 causing misfiring after only a few hundred miles. On inspection there was scoring on bores 1 & 6 and a full engine rebuild ensued. I could have had just the head rebuilt which would have probably reduced the oil consumption significantly but i knew i would not be happy knowing i'd got buggered bores..ooerr!! Personally looking back i'd wait and try and pick up a car thats known on the site that has has had the necessary engine work done to it and its been carried out by a reputable garage that we all trust (in most cases not VW). Someone like Stealth if possible. It'll cost you a bit more than you may get it from autotrader but theres a good reason for that and thats because we care about things like "engines n stuff". A low mileage (which in most cases now is probably around 80k anyway isn't really that low considering what "can" go wrong with the bloody things. low mileage can mean its spent its whole life doing short trips anyway which isn't ideal. If you can get a car thats had the chains and head done at least there should be some evidence to show you know what you are buying as there may be evidence of leakage tests or just evidence to show a visual report on the state of the bores. Im in the same situation as Rpmayne where by including buying the car, sorting suspension, exhaust and unfortunatley a full engine rebuild ive spent around 8K and it looks pretty much the same as it did the day i picked it up. I certainly won't be recouperating much of that back if i ever had to sell it. F**kin love it tho. right after that mammoth post its home time...wehey its the weekend!

Stealth aint that far - know u'll geta proper job!

Go GSF think they are around 140 something with a 40 refund on exchange. Not sure on situation with postage fees though!!

though noise wasn't that deep... still worth a check!!

First thing to check is belt did you put a new one on. Had a similar clicking, knocking noise recently that was a bit of a worry since i'd had a full, engine rebuild. The PAS pump was changed cos thats practically the only part that hadn't been and the noise was still there. Anyway after a brief period of panic from myself regarding pulling the whole sodding block back out again Vince did a quick swap of belts just on the off chance and would you believe it noise gone.... and the belt looked immaculate by the way. Very odd but worth a check.