awright182

Is that it? Has this thread finished? I'm just wondering if all the kit bolted on in a straight forward kind of way. I plan to do this when the weather gets warmer. Andy

I did mine earlier in the summer. Passenger side guide plate caused the cable to snap. Golf Mk 3 mechanical parts are identical. Stealers will cost over £100. Golf sunroof off ebay is cheaper. Uselashing of lithium grease in the rebuild Andy

Thanks for the replies. I think I'll try the refurb kit. Probably an excuse to have a look at the scirrocco while I'm at the dealers Andy

Am I going to test drive it. Well on any normal roads I reckon it will feel like the golf. I can't see the point of testing if I don't want to buy. I was 34 when I bought the corrado. I'm an old git now. If I was going to buy a new car it would be a TT. Andy

From the photos it doesn't look different. Fiat Bava front end wedded to Astra back end. My local dealer has been phoning me regularly. Got really excited when he realised I still had the raddo from 16 years ago. He's been phoning back every four weeks culminating in the conversation where I point out to him that my car has zero depreciation and his doesn't. I've thought about selling it three times but I just can't do it. Andy

Result! The neighbour has an account. He's bringing the parts catalogue home for me on Monday. Andy

Thanks for the headsup. I've located my local branch. It's directly behind the local VW dealer! I have a next door neighbour who is a mechanic and has a Golf 1.8T. I'll be going round there tonight to see if he's got an account. Andy

Were can I get genuine VW discs and pads for £80? Not the dealers surely? I'm still running on the originals :D Andy

Hi, One of my rear callipers is starting to drag. The car was registered in October 92. I gather there are two different designs of calliper. Can someone tell me what the differences are? Are the two types interchangeable. Which type is mine likely to have early or lates? Thanks for any help Andy

There's also the tool to get the wheel stud covers off if it's a VR6

by quicksilver on 29.05.2005, 17:11 The problem you describe can also be caused by the silver rocker being worn. Specifically the small wheel at the back of the rocker but the problem can be compunded by the pin that the rocker is mounted on being bent upwards. What happens is that the rockers normally engange in a slot in the sunroof rails and as the sunroof slides back the rockers are meant to disengage from the slot and allow roof to slide. As the mechanism wears the rocker on the passenger side can be reluctant to disengage and so slightly bend the mounting pin for the rocker and often warping the water plate guide that was mentioned earlier. The rockers job in life is to keep the tilting mechanism locked to the rest of the cable and sliding mechanism until the rocker falls into its slot at which point the sunroof will then tilt. Once the rocker etc is distorted/worn it fails to lock together the sliding and tilting parts of the sunroof. This isn't a problem when sliding the sunroof open as this pushes the parts together but when trying to close the sunroof the parts are pulled apart, the rocker doesn't do its job and the sunroof starts to tilt as its sliding and if you're unlucky you get some nice scratches in your sunroof panel. Anyway enough of this essay, the upshot is still the same. You will need to take your roof lining down and take the sunroof out. If you haven't done this job before then allow a day for it. You will need a new rocker repair kit some white grease possibly a new guide although these can sometimes be straightened back out and a lot of patience. Whilst you have the roof out it may be worth renewing the passenger side cable for peace of mind as you will kick yourself if it snaps the week after you fix your sunroof. A second pair of hands will help when you need to manoeuvre the headlining out as it is very fragile and easy to break. The part number for the rocker repair kit is 1HO 898 019 (this is the Golf part but it looks identical apart from the colour of the rocker, I think the Corrado part is the same number but with an A on the end: 1HO 898 019A I think the cable is part number 1HO 898 014A although you should be able to verify both part numbers elsewhere on the forum. quicksilver :: CF Newbie :: Search the forum. The part you want is still available. I bought one last week. My sunroof is back together again now and working fine (touch wood) Apologies for the cut and paste. I don't know how to do a link Andy

It's probably not a good idea. I had a wiring loom fire once though not on a VW. The heat melts the insulation on the wire trying to carry the current and any other wires bound up in that part of a loom. Complete replacement was the only answer. Life's too short Andy

I think everyone is ignoring you because there is lots of info on this if you search. If you carry on trying to operate it you will break the passenger side cable anchor point and then you're looking at £120 to fix it I have mine in bits at the moment. It takes a couple of hours to take it apart and dismantle it. It's cheaper to get a replacement from a Mk III Golf and swap over the bits you need than go to the dealers for new bits. Has any body got a broken sunroof. The bit I need isn't one of the bits you get as part of the repair kit? Andy

I've only just got around to fixing this. Thought i'd post my findings for the benefot of others. The wires to the central locking switch on the door lock had come loose. When it was lowered the window glass chopped through the wiring. The metal frame that supports the glass provided a short which blew the fuse. The central locking and windows are on the same fuse so both were knocked out. Soldered everything back together and insulated it and now she's as good as new At least it was a cheap fix

Sorry if this has already turned up but there is currently a petition to persuade the government that road charging is a bad idea. You can sign it here. http://petitions.pm.gov.uk/traveltax/ It's the largest petition by a factor of 10 If you think it's a good idea sign it and let everyone you know know it exists. .... If not sit on your hands! Andy

Hi, Long post but please stick with it. The car is a 92 VR6 I've got a fault on the passenger side window electrics. The fuse blew with the window half way up/down. At the time it was being operated by the drivers side switch. We replaced the fuse and the new one blew straight away. I took the passenger side door card off and connected a battery up to the electric motor. The window winds up and down just fine. I decided the fault must be in the wiring somewhere so as a first stab i disconnected the switches on both doors and replaced the fuse. It didn't blow. I reconnected the switches. The fuse didn't blow and the drivers door window works but the passenger door window will not work from either switch. In the cases of both windows I can hear clicking going on in the control unit. After quite a bit of random activity I have managed to blow the fuse again. I have replaced it and at the mo I am driving around with a dead passenger window while I think about. Is it likely to be the control unit or the wiring? Can I bypass the control unit to prove that is where the fault is? How do you get behind the card to mess about with the control unit. Andy

Well I stripped the passenger footwell. The "brain" was in a plastic bag. I took the plug of it and gave both sides a dousing of switch cleaner. It didn't make any difference so I went back to basics. I got my old swing needle meter out and that is telling me the drivers side front sensor is dead. Seems like the digimeter is giving false readings. I've decided to change the sensor and see if it makes a difference. Getting the old sensor off wasn't easy. 10 years worth of crud meant I had to take the brake disc off to attack it from both sides. Andy

Thanks Henny, I feel like I'm getting somewhere now. Thinking about it it was replaced under warranty when the car was very young because VW didn't use enough sealant and the rain got in. I always assumed it was in the engine bay though. i'll have a go at it this weekend. it's a lot easier to work on the car in daylight than in the garage. Andy

Steve, I think you have posted the info I wanted. It agrees with what i read in the Bentley manual. Are we talking about the unit attached to the firewall with the brake pipes emerging on it. The reason i am confused is because Bentley talks of something under the rear of the car. Andy

I'll try and explain better. I tested the resistance of the sensors. I tested them at the connectors on the tops of the struts and they are both arounf 1000 Ohms. I took the bases of the rear seats out and tested again and those were also 1000 Ohms give or take a bit. I then tested the resistance on the bits of the connectors that don't go to the sensors, presumably they go to the control unit, or the pump or something. Three were 100 Ohm whilst the front right hand side was open circuit i.e no connection. I then warmed the car up, got the ABS working and the fourth one then also had a resistance of 100 Ohm. So, i must have a break or bad connection in that circuit. The question is once it leaves the sensor the wiring travels up to the top of the strut but where does it go next? Andy

Dr Mat, I think I have the same problem. ABS light shows a fault but if you go for a burn turn off the engine and back on again the problem goes away. Checking the sensors revealed nothing. They are all in spec. If I put my meter across the other side of the connectors though I found that three of the sensors wiring back to the ABS unit are showing 100 Ohm but the RH Front is open circuit i.e no reading at all on the meter. Once I've warmed up the car and the ABS is working all four connectors show 100 Ohm. I'm not sure what to try next. Where does the wiring go? Does it go straight to the pump or does it go via some connector somewhere down by the drivers feet. Anyone got any ideas? Andy 92K VR6