Crasher 3 Posted July 31, 2006 This is what I was experiencing on a G60 conversion in a Golf (someone else’s work) that was doing this and it was driving me potty. The painful aspect was that the problem didn't show up on a professional ECU fault testing machine as I sent the suspect ECU to three different testing companies. In the end, I put the suspect ECU into another car that was running fine and it started to do the same over fuelling. The only way you will find out is by fitting another ECU to your car (risky) or by trying yours in someone else’s car where it can't do any harm, the preferred method. Try posting to see if anyone will help. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
biggrim 0 Posted August 1, 2006 Ok. I ran the car (like a pag o' poo) for a bit. I then disconnected the lambda wiring and it continued to run like said bag o' poo. Does this mean that the lambda is either- 1 - FUBAR or 2 - Needing a good clean? Need to get this sorted asap so speedy responsess appreciated Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
biggrim 0 Posted August 1, 2006 Can someone confirm for me the order that the ht leads are connected to the dizzy? I've got them as - ____________Engine_______________ 1 2 3 4 1 2 3 4 With one being closest to the engine if you know what I mean. Cheers Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
biggrim 0 Posted August 2, 2006 Don't all shout out the answers at once now! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
biggrim 0 Posted August 2, 2006 Pweeeeeaaaaseee! Anyone help? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
biggrim 0 Posted August 3, 2006 I had a chat to furkz late last night and he reckons it might be the knock sensor. I had a look today at what I hope was the knock sensor. Just to the right of the alternator on the front of the engine block held on with 13mm bolt???? Unplugged it and had a look at the wiring up to the plug. There are about 3 bits of the inner wiring exposed (the metal looking stuff) and I wonder if this might be the culprit. I've taped these areas up with insulating tape for now but I don't think it's made any difference. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Henny 0 Posted August 3, 2006 Yup, that's the knock sensor... If the outer sleave is knackered, the odds are that the sensor is also knackered... it's ultra sensitive to electrical noise (hence the co-axial style cable) and if the outer shield is damaged it's gonna be picking up all sorts of background noises you don't want... Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
biggrim 0 Posted August 3, 2006 Henny, you think I should take out and clean the lambda sensor and the plugs just to be sure it's not them? Have you had a read at a few posts up? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Henny 0 Posted August 3, 2006 lambda sensor doesn't need cleaning, it does that itself on it's warm up cycle if it's OK... you may want to tap into the purple wire to the lambda and stick a multimeter on it (and the -ve of the battery) to see what sort of signals it's putting out... if it's stuck at .36V it's dead... it should fluctuate between 0 and 1V as it's at idle after a couple of minutes of idling... if not, it's dead. You NEED to leave it connected to the original wiring though else you'll get SFA out of it as it won't have power going to it! :lol: Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
biggrim 0 Posted August 3, 2006 So I can put the multimeter on the purple connection at the engine mount plug and then the -ve on the battery to get a reading? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
biggrim 0 Posted August 3, 2006 Checked the lambda tonight the way you said Henny. Didn't really do much tbh. It didn't sit at 0.36V but it didn't exactly fluctuate between 0v and 1v either. Am I perhaps doing something wrong? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
biggrim 0 Posted August 3, 2006 Ok, checked the lambda again only this time I connected the multimeter correctly. I got a reading of between 0.55V and 0.69V. Does that sound ok? Starting to suspect the timing or the knock sensor however I can't rule out the bts. Supercharged said put it in a pan and test it but I'm not sure what exactly he means. What could cause the timing to suddenly go out? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
biggrim 0 Posted August 4, 2006 Booked the car into VW for a diagnostic. £49 + V.A.T. I need to get it sorted and my work are giving me hassle to get it done asap. My work are paying for the diagnostic to find out the problem and then I'm paying for the actual repair. It's going in on Wednesday 9th. Wish me luck. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Henny 0 Posted August 4, 2006 good luck mate.... Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
biggrim 0 Posted August 6, 2006 Cheers matey. Funny story though. Took my car to work on friday (reluctantly) and as usual was runnung like a bag o' poo. On the way home from work, running like a bag o' poo untill I slowed down for a set of lights at red. There was a huuuuuge backfire and a bit of black smoke came out the exhaust. To say I shat my pants is an understatement! Stopped at the lights and the car idled perfectly. Took off from the lights perfectly and drove the rest of the way home perfectly. The car is booked in to VW on Wednesday and I'm still going to take it to get checked but I'm just wondering what the hell is going on. Is there a chance that the dodgy lambda wiring being the problem was causing the car to overfuel and therefore sooted up the engine/plugs etc and when I fixed the wiring it just took some time to clear the system out it'self???? I hope that it runs ok today (not at home just now) and when VW test it, nothing comes of it. Super confused but happy that it seems to be running ok for now. Will keep you informed. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
biggrim 0 Posted August 7, 2006 Ever spoken too soon? Took the out yesterday for some petrol. Started fine, and ran fine to the petrol station. Filler her up with the usual optimax and ran fine almost all the way home again. Was approaching a set of lights and I turned to my fiance and said "I'm so glad the car is running ok again and I pull up to a set of lights without getting embarrased". Stopped at the lights and what do you know....... started running like poo again!!!!!!!! So the saga continues for now. Cheers Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
biggrim 0 Posted August 10, 2006 VW don't have a clue what's wrong with it! Diagnostic has come back clear after replacing the battery. I'm going to collect it tonight as I'm not having them keep it doing nothing to sort it. They told me that the car is not standard and in order for them to properly check it, I need to put the car back to standard. All it's got is a Jabba rebuild, chip and 68mm pulley and boost return kit (which confused the hell out of them). I need to part with £115 before I'll get it back and in no better shape than before it went in. Any suggestions? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
iow_corrado_g60 0 Posted August 10, 2006 sounds like wiring as its doing it intermitently??? pm henny chap is your g60 whizz or ring up darren at g-werks! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Henny 0 Posted August 10, 2006 Any suggestions? milk bottle, petrol with a dash of sugar and a rag... add a match... claim on their insurance... That's the kind of level I'm at with mine now... :( Personally, I'd never take my car to VW anyway as most of them have no idea what a G60 engine is, never mind how to fix one... Get it over to Star and see if they can sort it out... ;) Have you cleaned your CO pot just out of interest? Wondering if it's oiled up inside which is causing your overfuelling... just spray it with some carb cleaner and dry it off... ;) iow_corrado_g60, we've spoken already... ;) :lol: Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
biggrim 0 Posted August 11, 2006 I'll clean the co pot this arvo Henny cheers. I gave Darren a call last night as i was collecting it from vw and wanted his advise. He said to call him back when I got it home to go over it. Only I never got it home. The car is now not starting. There is no spark! Could it be the coil? I'm going to give Darren a call later when I get home but in the mean time (other than a gallon of shell's finest and a match) any ideas? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Henny 0 Posted August 11, 2006 could be coil, more likely to be hall sender from the descriptions you've given so far IMHO... Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
biggrim 0 Posted August 11, 2006 What and where is the hall sender and are they expensive? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Henny 0 Posted August 11, 2006 hall sender is inside the dizzy and is the bit which tells the ecu to fire the coil to send a spark to the plug... Unfortunately, AFAIK, it's not replacable without changing the dizzy, so it's not cheap... :( Give Daz a ring and he'll know how to test it to proove or rule it out as the cause. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
biggrim 0 Posted August 11, 2006 Cool, cheers matey Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites