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20v turbo

deleting roof trims

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just been to the bodyshop and they cant fit me in before the end of the month :(

 

i asked about the roof sills and they said the same as some of you lot about them cracking..... he said that because there is a joint under the sill where the roof and quater panels attach there will be flex in that part of the body and he couldnt guarantee that it wouldnt start cracking

 

hmmm not sure about the rear VW badge, anyone got any pics of one without so i can see what i think?

 

cheers

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I got rid of my rear badges, apparently theres a couple of holes behind it (either that or the corrado badge) that had to be welded up to stop moisture from getting in...

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right then everyone i really want to delete the roof gutters and im gonna do the VW badge at the back.

 

now before i do the roof gutters i really need some clarification on whether they are going to crack and look sh*t in no time cos if im forking out for a respray i dont want to have to sort this out in a few months time again!

 

i was advised by a mate in my aunts garage to get some plastic padding filler to do the gutters and he rekons they should be fine.....

 

anyone got any advice?

 

cheers,

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darn my badge fell off today...and broke into 3 peices..tho it does look good from a distance it looks she!te cos of the holes there...might fill em up :)

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Well I guess time will tell but I don’t see that area flexing much tbh... Let’s remember that some tract cars have fibber bodies and I don’t often see then crack unless they hit something. My friends radical has been using the same fibber shell for years.

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cut steel strips 1mm narrower than the rain gutter width... weld at 1" intervials with 1/2" welds.....grind back flush....small amount (skim) of filler and the job is done correctly with no chance of cracking / rotting underneath etc..

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sounds easy enough darren but i have the slight problem of not having a welder or steel strips tho :?

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g-man, ya wanna do mine than

 

nope but my paint-shop would .. he is actually doing one as we speak and said it only took him 2hrs to do each side.

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Darren,

 

what sort of price would we be looking at for that to be done then?

 

cheers,

 

im sorry i have absoulty no idea i just happend to have a chat with the painter when i picked some of my bits up so i knew how he did them..

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g-man

cut steel strips 1mm narrower than the rain gutter width... weld at 1" intervials with 1/2" welds.....grind back flush....small amount (skim) of filler and the job is done correctly with no chance of cracking / rotting underneath etc..

 

 

abit like this then, idont know about 1/2" welds though it would pull the roof all over the place thats why i just put lots of tacks on

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I had filler done first time round, didn't really set it would seem. Two years later it lifted so I eventually found a classic car restorer who would actually do the job with a welded-in plate. Said he'd weld 2", cool the roof with an air-line and weld etc to stop the roof distorting. Great mod, expensive, got the rear hatch hinge covers painted as well, looks good.

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Errrrrrr no not yet sorry mate. I'll take some tomorrow morning if i remember and it's not too frosty. Uni has been getting the better of me at the mo, and the C, I trashed my rad changing a vent hose :bad-words: and then flat battery woes haven't helped over the last week or so. :(

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