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Riley

Please help my g60 - Err where were we? Page 42

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havent driven it much tbh darren,

 

when i have,it pulls well enough foot to the floor but it dosnt feel 100% all the time,sometimes hessitant at diffarent rev ranges and it bogs down now and again.

 

this morning it just wouldnt go anywhere in 1st/2nd,i stopped,revved it and then it went :?

 

im wondering if the new ecu is damaged from the problem or the current chip(superchip) has become damaged through an ecu problem?

 

ive sort of accepted it for how it is at the mo (had enough messing) but i reckon i could do with someone like yourself to check it out/set it up maybe?

 

ps:steve is sending me a new chip which hes gonna test first,so thanks to him.

 

and to everyone else who tried/did :wink: :oops: :lol: help.

 

neil.

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good point m8...

 

maybe thats the cause of the hessitancy,in fact when i compared the new 68mm pully to the old 70mm one they looked the same to me anyway :?

 

wheres the correct place to measure them?

 

didnt get a shorter belt,later today i might try a spacer in the top of the tensioner and see if it cures part of the problem,and then maybe it will show if i need longer belt or not?

 

cheers

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You sure? I used to run the standard VW belt for the G60 along with a 68mm pulley, and i'm quite sure there were no modifications to my tensioner. I was told you only needed a shorter belt if you went down to 65mm or less on the pulley size..

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i do have a non standard tensioner i think?

 

it has a blue anodised bit on the top?

 

ill try a spacer in it and see how it goes,cheers people 8)

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Riley sorry about being a bit hard on you, I was trying to help and not just being nasty.

I got a brand new shorter belt that I got off Steve PSD if you want it for a few quid, its no good to me as Im running a twin alternator set up.

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gibber, no worries m8,i apologise too.

 

im just easily stressed at the mo with a few probs im having.

 

i stuck a few washers in the tensioner earlier,still hesitant intermittently though.and i dont really know how tight the belt should be? how tight is tight enough?

 

i can squeeze it together and the tensioner raises a bit so i wouldnt say its mega tight.

 

if i need a shorter belt,how much you after gibber?

 

cheers guys,neil.

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im guessing the shorter belts are a straight fit?

 

i may as well have it off ya m8,few quid inc postage?

 

can i paypal you the money?

 

where do i measure the pully? where the belt runs like in the grooves or not?

 

neil.

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I really doubt its the belt causing problems, I mean how hard is it to get the tensioner on? My tensioner only needs compressing about 15mm to get it on, still quite hard to get on but... you can hear the belt slipping at over 5k on a 68mm pulley, also tried spacing the tensioner off to give more compression, made no difference!

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aye,im just thinking a new one would be a good idea for a few quid?

 

as for the problem,if the ecu is slightly damaged,when i get the new chip off steve could it become damaged also? :?

 

in fact tommorow im gonna recheck the c.o on the gas aniliser.

 

im starting to mess again arent i :lol:

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Your ignition leads are ok aren't they? Could be hall effect sender (if G60's have these?)?

 

My Polo used to do this, didn't like it 'on load', had to dip the clutch, then it'd rev freely.

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Your ignition leads are ok aren't they? Could be hall effect sender (if G60's have these?)?

 

My Polo used to do this, didn't like it 'on load', had to dip the clutch, then it'd rev freely.

 

yep,pretty new leads m8,cheers :)

 

ahh,not standard,i dont know much about this bit gav,will it be a modified part to increase tension?

 

can just see it in attatched pic :)

 

ps:tommorow im gonna try swapping the t-body over,ill stick the new gaskets on too.

 

also where exactly do i measure the pully,is there such thing as 70mm and 68mm? :?

 

neil.

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Jabbasport do a similar thing to increase the belt tension. You cut off the top eyelet and beat on their 'cap'. As well as increasing tension on the belt, it also speeds up the wear of your bearings by jacking up the side load. :roll:

I have seen some others that don't change the free length of the tensioner, they just increase the tension of the spring. They have a spacer under the bottom spring plate.

Think lowering spring caps in reverse. A better solution IMO.

 

Gavin

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I have seen some others that don't change the free length of the tensioner, they just increase the tension of the spring. They have a spacer under the bottom spring plate.

Think lowering spring caps in reverse. A better solution IMO.

 

Gavin

 

I have this mod on mine as gavin pointed out when he re-bushed it for me, and i am also running a shorter belt,, seems to work well, :wink:

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Jabbasport do a similar thing to increase the belt tension. You cut off the top eyelet and beat on their 'cap'. As well as increasing tension on the belt, it also speeds up the wear of your bearings by jacking up the side load. :roll:

I have seen some others that don't change the free length of the tensioner, they just increase the tension of the spring. They have a spacer under the bottom spring plate.

Think lowering spring caps in reverse. A better solution IMO.

 

Gavin

 

sounds about right,it did have a blue anodised pully and superchip fitted by jabba,looks like it is one of there tensioner mods then?

 

so no need for a shorter belt,but im guessing its not ideal how it is now?

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Riley, how old is your dizzy? Is it the original one? I have a known good working one I could send you if you wish to swap 'em over which will totally rule out the hall sender which I think could well be the remaining cause of your problems...

 

PM me your address and I'll send it over to you if you wish... it'll be free postage, and if it improves things and you want to keep it, I only want £10 for the dizzy... 8)

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henny,i appreciate that m8,thanks,pm coming your way. 8)

 

i think i may as well try another dizzy to rule out the hall sender like you say,im not sure how old the dizzy is but i know that it took some serious work to free it off!

 

it was well and truly seized into the block,hall sender connector seems alright,its not loose or anything but i guess you cant tell how good it is inside?

 

neil.

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yeah, the hall sender is basically a VERY thin copper wire coiled up tightly. The copper oxidises over time or can fracture due to vibrations from the engine meaning that once it warms up due to the current going through it and the fact it's part of an engine, it starts to give either false readings or (more likely) missing readings and therefore not giving the signal to fire the sparkplugs causing crap running... Also the magnet that the sensor detects looses it's magnetism over time which doesn't help things either...

 

Dizzy's in the post in the next day or so... 8)

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sounds good to me ian,nice one 8)

 

i was gonna,in fact i tried to have a go at a civic type r today.

 

i looked like an a$$ :!:

 

foot to the floor in 2nd and it just sorta went,

 

wer,ner,neeer,neer,ner.can only describe it as pulling then not,pulling then not again and again.

 

and its farted a few times today too,backfiring when i apply throttle,seems like the problem is creeping back!

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