Please help my g60 - Err where were we? Page 42

[steveo29 0]

get the voltmeter on and pull all your wires...could be a duff earth or something hanging

[kevin 0]

Just been on the phone to Mr G-man (lovely chap) himself for a new chip for mine and we had a little chat about your car mate and he said itf your revs rise wen you take of the BTS as yours is doing you have another sender playing up.

mine does this aswell!!"revs rise"any idea what sensor it could be!

regards kevin

[steveo29 0]

could it not be the idle is wound out too far???

[potatonet 0]

If you wind the idle down the the very base of the screw it only sits at 750 rpms, this is where mine is at. Yes the G60 limp mode is a thing that all of us hate and it does cause the same conditions as described, I thought this was my problem too but negative I was, sorry mates.

 

ure power should be really funky with a bad voltage regulator tho, like REALLY funky intermittent and whatnot.

[Riley 0]

Just been on the phone to Mr G-man (lovely chap) himself for a new chip for mine and we had a little chat about your car mate and he said itf your revs rise wen you take of the BTS as yours is doing you have another sender playing up.

mine does this aswell!!"revs rise"any idea what sensor it could be!

regards kevin

 

any more info on this? :)

 

ill check the voltage at the battery tommorow with the headlights and heater on?

 

if it was an intermittent volt reg all this time i will cry :lol:

i never noticed the voltage drop before though... :?

 

cheers again guys. 8)

[billinjah 0]

maybe the battery, i heard that gavins g60 was much better with a new battery ive just put a new bosch on mine and maybe im imagining it but it feels much better!

[Riley 0]

thanks m8,ill check it out tommorow while checking the charge from the alternator. 8)

 

what amp battery should the g60 have btw?

[h100vw 0]

maybe the battery, i heard that gavins g60 was much better with a new battery ive just put a new bosch on mine and maybe im imagining it but it feels much better!

 

The Golf did start much better with 12 volts over 10 :roll:

 

On the syncro I had an alternator fail, it bogged really badly as the pump couldn't cope with low voltage running it..

 

Low voltage worries the ECU so it overfuels, this is why the earths need to be good. So the ECU is using the same poawer supplies as the rest of the car. A bad engine earth, will appear as a low voltage to the ECU and it'll protect the engine accordingly.

 

Gavin

[steveo29 0]

ive noticed mine runs bad if ever ive needed to jump start it( yeah i know i shouldnt)

 

riley..ive been looking at optima batterys theyre supposed to be very good

 

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Optima-Battery-Re ... dZViewItem

[Riley 0]

yeah,supposed to be good batterys the optima stuff,should be for the feckin price too :lol:

 

gonna check voltages soon :D

 

neil.

[steveo29 0]

have you checked all the power/batt/earth leads are tight n clean

[Riley 0]

have you checked all the power/batt/earth leads are tight n clean

 

yep,all good m8,cleaned up with emory and fitted nice and securely.

 

looks like the main part of the problem is fixed (fingers crossed!) it hasnt done the popping back in the inlet manifold all day :D

 

still has the intermittent power though,driving on just the first choke it holds back (sometimes) and on full throttle it pulls then dosnt,then pulls then dosnt.

 

checked the battery voltage without the car running-12.8 volts or a touch more,and with the car running with lights/heater on - 13.5ish at the battery and 13.8/14v at the alternator.

 

something else has happened too :lol: since replacing the volt regulator if i start it without revving it,the battery light stays on,when i blip the throttle it goes out.

 

what ya reckon guys?

 

just like to say thanks to everyone who has helped me so far too 8)

 

its getting there!

 

neil.

[Riley 0]

just to add,

 

i disconnected the bts today to double check it,and the revs dropped :?

 

strange as i havent touched anything!

 

apart from replacing oil pressure senders on filter head and side of cylinder head.

[steveo29 0]

you know you messed around with ecu's and chips.....is the chip you have now suited to your spec? and you have the right fpr for the chip??

 

its just i ran my std pulley while running the charger in , and that was pretty pants

[potatonet 0]

intermittent power could be vaccum leak somewhere, or dizzy problem like mine currently

[Riley 0]

you know you messed around with ecu's and chips.....is the chip you have now suited to your spec? and you have the right fpr for the chip??

 

its just i ran my std pulley while running the charger in , and that was pretty pants

 

good point actually m8 8)

 

at the mo im running the old superchip with the 68mm pulley.

 

used to be stage 2 jabba charger with superchip and 70mm pully,its had a standard 3bar? pressure reg the whole time.

 

would it make that much difference?

 

im waiting on a replacement sns stage 5 or 5.5 i think it is,from psd.

 

no vac leaks as far as i can tell potatonet m8.

 

neil.

[h100vw 0]

If that chip was written for the boost of a 70mm pulley, Neil. You should be very careful thrashing it. The extra boost from the 68mm pulley will probably cause a weak mixture, which is very bad!!!!!

 

Gavin

[steveo29 0]

its just the earlier sns chips needed a 3.5 frp...id speak with you chip supplier and make sure you,ve got the right bits

 

year ago jabba told me their chips were superchips or vice versa

[Riley 0]

ahh,makes sense gavin,although according to the afr gauge it runs rich if anything? dont know how accurate it is like.

 

steveo,i remember steve at psd saying that i wouldnt need a 3.5 pressure reg but im gonna double check which chip he's sending me as a replacement.

 

whats the difference between stage 5 and stage 5.5?

 

neil.

[h100vw 0]

As long as it goes solid rich under hard acceleration. If it suddenly went off the bottom, that'd be a problem.

 

No need for 3.5 BAR FPRs, I don't think there is a difference btween the 2 chips. The fact it is stage 5 is the important factor, that's what they call the no-lag chips.

 

The decimal point is used by snstuning on their older chips, to denote different states of engnine config. ie std, std bar a cam, headwork and cam etc

 

Gavin

[Riley 0]

cool thanks gav,

 

my gauge does the following,some say it sounds right,some disagree :?

 

cold start,ticking over:it stays fully rich for a bit.

 

warm,ticking over:fluctuates between far end of ok to rich.

 

driving,tickling the throttle:again fluctuating far end of ok to rich.

 

full throttle:fully rich.

 

backing off:stays at the far right ok position.

 

sound ok?

[h100vw 0]

All good, except it should go off altogether on the over-run as the ECU should be cutting the fuel completely in the interest of economy! :mrgreen:

In burnley on thursday this week, if my wife stops at home, will be encouraging this option, I might have time to meet up.

 

Gavin

[Riley 0]

ahh,may explain my slight heavy use of optimax then!

 

any idea what could cause it not to go lean?

 

throttle closed switch at a guess? :oops:

 

in burnley on thursday? cool,yeah gimme a shout before hand gav :D

[gibber 0]

Riley the TB switches are realy easy to check, get your meter out mate.

[stevemac 0]

Riley the TB switches are realy easy to check, get your meter out mate.

Yeah - I had a duff "full throttle" switch a while back. Also check that the throttle linkage is actually activating the switches.