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Definitive 24v into a (VR) Corrado thread

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Thanks, That would concur with my findings,

I think I'm going to disconect the N80 and block the pipe so the engine just thinks it's got a faulty N80 and will bypass it

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Liking the modded fanimold. Has it been plastic welded yet?

 

I would use 24V N80 valve, or at least a resistor to fool the ECU into thinking there's one, otherwise you won't get any long term fuel trimming.

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Hi all 24 valvers

I don't suppose anyone in the london south east area has a 24 valve engine stripped so I can test fit my latest idea,

This will allow the use of the standard air filter and location.

cheers

Steve

[ATTACH=CONFIG]78084[/ATTACH]

[ATTACH=CONFIG]78085[/ATTACH]

[ATTACH=CONFIG]78086[/ATTACH]

[ATTACH=CONFIG]78087[/ATTACH]

[ATTACH=CONFIG]78088[/ATTACH]

 

Rather than cutting the runners wouldn't it be easier to cut the throttle body end off the manifold leaving an inch or so beyond the runners and use a second manifold cut to flip over and sleeve it over the inch left on?

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mines running standard vr6 valve and left the tube open by the carbon canister, iv had no problems in regards to crap idle or bad running or anything like or any fault codes to assume otherwise, hot or cold start is also perfect,

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There's two reasons why I did it this way,

There's not enough room between the manifold and the air box to have your throttle body, tubing and MAF, so by cutting the runners you are moving over the throttle body end by 2 inches or so to the right,

The problem with flipping the throttle body end is that it's got hump underneath and when it's fliped it sits too high and fouls the bonnet,

I'm thinking it would be easier if I sleave the runners with rubber tubing, just to see if it works

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I guess you blocked up where the pipe normally goes to the intake manifold,

I've still got my valve connected so as not to throw error code but I've routed the tube into the air box so at least it'll now be metered

mines running standard vr6 valve and left the tube open by the carbon canister, iv had no problems in regards to crap idle or bad running or anything like or any fault codes to assume otherwise, hot or cold start is also perfect,

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No not yet Kev

I've got a few other things on the go at the moment, Suspension, Heater backlight kit etc,

I'm going to GTI spring festival at Santa Pod next weekend, I will be on the lookout for a 24V N80,

I'm Mainly going to sell stuff, hopefully will come home with less parts and more money than when I left, But somehow doubt it!

Liking the modded fanimold. Has it been plastic welded yet?

 

I would use 24V N80 valve, or at least a resistor to fool the ECU into thinking there's one, otherwise you won't get any long term fuel trimming.

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Quick question to anyone running mk5 r32's, I've picked up an audi a3 engine which unfortunately runs the non FPR fuel rail. I had initially planned to find a mk4/TT fuel rail and swap them over, but I read somewhere that it may cause fueling problems. Can anyone confirm if this is just a straight forward swap?

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Yeah that's the same I heard when I came to do mine, so I just didn't risk it. Solutions are to fit an aftermarket fpr, or get the r32 fuel filter with inbuilt regulator. I've done the latter, and mounted the filter in my engine bay for now.

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I guess you blocked up where the pipe normally goes to the intake manifold,

I've still got my valve connected so as not to throw error code but I've routed the tube into the air box so at least it'll now be metered

 

yep vac connections on manifold are blocked, at the time I didnt really think anything of it as I thought you could just delete these without any ill effect...

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So have some people removed the N80 valve as others kept it? I had just assumed everyone was removing it so never gave it a second thought. I presume everyone has removed the SAI stuff though?

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So have some people removed the N80 valve as others kept it? I had just assumed everyone was removing it so never gave it a second thought. I presume everyone has removed the SAI stuff though?

I think it's not a problem if you remove it and put a resistor in the circuit or delete it from the code, but I'm hoping that having the "normally open" Corrado valve controlled by an ECU which is programed to control a "normally closed" 24V valve is causing my lump idle.

I've got rid of my SAI as well, maybre that needs some investigating

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Yep as Fanjita said regarding the MK5 fuel filter. I mounted mine at the back, but nothing wrong with mounting it at the front either. Easier to revert back to standard.

 

For the N80, personally I would leave it connected but just tucked out of the way somewhere. These things can be coded out to prevent - N80 EVAP "incorrect flow" - errors, but the ECU still needs to 'see' it, otherwise you won't get long term trims. Same applies to the SAI pump relay. If you can find resistors that trick the ECU, even better, but I'm not sure they work on PWM controllers like the N80. Fine for relays & airbags etc with a fixed load though.

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So have some people removed the N80 valve as others kept it? I had just assumed everyone was removing it so never gave it a second thought. I presume everyone has removed the SAI stuff though?

 

I have kept original 12v vr6 valve , its just not connected to intake , yea no sai for me although that was taken care of by united motorsports when I sent my ecu to them for removal of immo

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My sai is fed through a dummy load. As kev said, this needs to be done and the n80 needs to be present. Otherwise the ecu won't be long term adaptive and therefore not as good as it could be. James

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Hmm I think I need to read into this further as I'm getting a sai error and lambda errors, and I'm getting no adaptive data for long term trim... Probably not helping my running issues.

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You might be worth sending matt at United Motorsport an email with your problems, he is very good at dealing with these ecu's. Not the most chatty of blokes but very good! Who did your ecu work before?

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Will the 2.8 4mo engine run with aftermarket management? Like mine DTA? When I got mine it was running way too rich 1 new map later by a guy I can only describe as a Ecu Genius I get over 30mpg average running around from an R32 I get less from the 2.6 Vectra Daily

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what exact error are you getting for lambda? ,

 

I'm away this weekend but once I'm home I'll post up a screen shot. I'm getting live data from the lambda's but when I look at the trim I get 0% no matter what state the car is in.

 

The ecu had the deletes (rear lambda etc) done by viezu but it's also running a revo map..... I believe. Is there a way I can tell in vcds whether this is true?

 

Sean - not a bad idea, I'll give him a call.

 

James - also not a bad idea. I've seen the kind of results possible with dta (yours and Kev's cars) and this would give me scope if I ever pull my finger out and go down the inline air compressor route.

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The ecu had the deletes (rear lambda etc) done by viezu but it's also running a revo map..... I believe. Is there a way I can tell in vcds whether this is true?

 

really don't know bud never looked that far into it, this may or may not help but I remember with mine that when i first scanned it i had a lambda fault, cant remember exactly what it said but i think "short to ground" was mentioned ?? stripped wiring harness back and traced the wiring back and a yellow and blue? wire went no where if i remember correctly this wire also linked up to the MAF! pretty sure it also gave me a maf fault again its been awhile so details are a little blury , where abouts in vcds do i check fuel trim?

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Ahh nuts, spent yesterday going through the wiring and removed the sai stuff. Does this need to be in there for the ecu or can I get it mapped out? I just assumed that was one thing I could definitely delete. If I were to keep it what would I need to do with it to stop the ecu from throwing a hissy fit?

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