Steering rack issues solutions and swaps....

[Mike Edwards 0]

Well, that went smoothly - but I'll have to drop it again as I realised part way through that I was going to need some new fixings for the ARB.

 

Changed the wishbones/bottom balljoints/track rod ends/drop links at the same time.

 

As the 'bonded' rubber of the rear bushes could be pushed out by hand, I'm guessing I should have done this a while ago....

[24V Renshaw 0]

IT'S SORTED!!!!!!

 

I have finally found the source of the clunking on my car. Whether its the same for other people I don't know, but the cause of my clunk was the bolts on the front of the wishbones. I was under the car having a good check over everything and checked them, they seemed tight, but not "really" tight. So checked the Bentley for the torque settings and it was 130NM!! Much higher than I expected. So out with the torque wrench and tightened them right up.

 

NO MORE CLUNK!!!!!!!! WOOOOHOOOOO!!!!! Imran was witness to the differnce it made in the car. Its soooooo smooth now, I am soooo happy!!! :) :) :) :)

 

Jay

[imyhamid 0]

I can confirm the car is running like a dream now. I loved it the first time i went in it about a month ago and i love it even more now. This is one amazin motor (well apart from the rattle in the roof, joke) it handles like a dream and that diff is amazin. Have a nice smooth drive to leeds try not to scare the misses too much when you put the foot to the floor!!!!

[Geo 0]

Nice one Jay. It's always very satisfying to get to the bottom of a niggly problem like that :D

[24V Renshaw 0]

Tell me about it. I have had a grin on my face all evening :) Its the last thing that was not right on the running gear of the car. Now I am 100% happy with it.

 

Jay

[Yandards 0]

IT'S SORTED!!!!!!

 

I have finally found the source of the clunking on my car. Whether its the same for other people I don't know, but the cause of my clunk was the bolts on the front of the wishbones. I was under the car having a good check over everything and checked them, they seemed tight, but not "really" tight. So checked the Bentley for the torque settings and it was 130NM!! Much higher than I expected. So out with the torque wrench and tightened them right up.

 

NO MORE CLUNK!!!!!!!! WOOOOHOOOOO!!!!! Imran was witness to the differnce it made in the car. Its soooooo smooth now, I am soooo happy!!! :) :) :) :)

 

Jay

 

So you went for G60/16v setting of 130NM then? I haven't noticed mine doing its clunk thing since I re-torqued them. Did you find it was around 1 and half turns to get it to 130nm (Same as mine)?

 

I am beginning to suspect the loading on these eases off over use/time hence the clunk develops. I did check the rest of the subframe bolts at the same time but none of them had come loose just the 2 x subframe ones.

 

I suppose the answer to do a quick torque check once every year or six months and see what develops now, if nothing else it should stop these clunks from developing. Anyone know if a torque check for the subframe is listed in the maintenace manual as part of the routine servicing?

[dr_mat 0]

Does this imply problems with the front wishbone bush, perhaps?

[Yandards 0]

Does this imply problems with the front wishbone bush, perhaps?

 

Not sure if you read my specualtion a couple of pages ago on the different torque between the plus(VR) and standard(16v/G60) torque loadings and wishbones.

 

Basically aside from the wishbones and the some of the section of the subframe all the parts are identical (bush, bolts) As such why is the torque figure for the VR only 70nm plus 90 degress as oppossed to the 16v/G60 which is 130nm?

 

I also am beginning to suspect that the torque figure supplied is designed to be used with the cars weight on its wheels, you will end up with an incorrect torque reading if the car is on axle stands if you do not place them under the wishbones as the wishbone bush is then loaded.

 

We are going to check the torque loadings on 2cc's 16v car today (and maybe his VR) if the same problem manefests itselfs I think we can call this a diagnosed problem.

[24V Renshaw 0]

It was the two wishbone front bolts that were causing the problems (wishbone to subframe) not the subframe to body bolts. But as you say, well worth everyone checking all of the big bolts under the car are up to 130NM.

 

Jay

[CorradoVR6-Turbo 0]

I'm posting this here because I think its rack related,

 

everytime I turn left lock from standing and once straightening up I get a tyre rubbing on wheel arch noise....but the weird thing is it only does it when you start up and set off and at no other time does the noise come back!?

 

I've had it on the ramp and done full lock to lock tests (the noise doesn't come back on when the car is stationary),checked and double checked everything no tyres are catching ect.

 

Still haven't a clue about what the hell it is and thought it might be rack related...

 

Come on throw some ideas my way :lol:

[A20 LEE 0]

anyone know of a company that can rebuild (properly!!) steering racks?

[24V Renshaw 0]

Lee- the problem is all they do generally is replace the seals and re-grease everything, that in my eyes is not "rebuilding" a rack. That is exactly what I bought and it was a pile of the proverbial. Having fitted my brand new SEAT one I cannot stress how much better the car feels than it ever has before. I now understand why people rate the Corrado so highly for its handling. :)

 

Jay

[24V Renshaw 0]

James - Have your tried replacing the fluid in the steering system. Its supposed to be flushed but no one does it.

 

Jay

[PhatVR6 0]

I'm going to use a TT rack in mine.

 

I want a quicker ratio rack, and having just fitted an S3 setup in my mk4 I'm well happy with it.

 

Yes, it's wider, but I want that, as I need more clearance for the exhaust. I'll be running TT wishbones and front hubs too.

[A20 LEE 0]

Lee- the problem is all they do generally is replace the seals and re-grease everything, that in my eyes is not "rebuilding" a rack. That is exactly what I bought and it was a pile of the proverbial. Having fitted my brand new SEAT one I cannot stress how much better the car feels than it ever has before. I now understand why people rate the Corrado so highly for its handling. :)

 

Jay

 

thought it maybe something like that. Personally, could live with that. I'll figure something out.

[VRTrickster 0]

have you got the part number for the seat rack lee?

I do think mine could possibly be the UJ though as the slack in the steering only appears when turning over bumps.I did try to check the UJ before I went Stealth and nipped up the pinch bolts.What is the best way to determine UJ play? All ive ended up with now is a rubber rubbing the UJ as a turn the steering wheel. Ill have to get that boot on probably! :x

I also checked the Allen bolts on the column,but they seemed fine.I have replaced the wishbone recently and all I know is the bolts were done up FT,so maybe I should get back under and torque them up! I havent replaced the rack bush yet but I dont think that would cause this problem would it?

[Mike Edwards 0]

A key tip - from personal experience - when changing the rack and replacing the ARB bushes on the subrame:

 

Before you bolt everything back on to the car, make certain you've put the ARB back in the right way up.

 

Oh how I laughed when - as the very last job - I came to put the droplinks on...

[dr_mat 0]

I do think mine could possibly be the UJ ...

 

I had steering play - it proved to be the column itself, not the UJs or the rack.. Check yours out..

[billinjah 0]

would you have to use new bolts before torquing (spl.?) them up?

[24V Renshaw 0]

I got new ones just to be on the safe side, but they are not stretch bolts so it should be fine. I ran a tap through the threads just to make sure they were nice and clean too.

 

Jay

[VRTrickster 0]

I do think mine could possibly be the UJ ...

 

I had steering play - it proved to be the column itself, not the UJs or the rack.. Check yours out..

 

Do I need to remove it before I could tell if thats the problem?

[dr_mat 0]

No.

[Kevin Bacon 5]

Basically aside from the wishbones and the some of the section of the subframe all the parts are identical (bush, bolts) As such why is the torque figure for the VR only 70nm plus 90 degress as oppossed to the 16v/G60 which is 130nm?

 

Because the VR wishbones have locating 'horse shoes' for the bushes, the valver/G60 platform doesn't.

 

Mine's been completely clonk free for nearly a month now, pretty sure that was down to the natty GSF tie rods.

 

Who have thought the front bolts could cause a clonk? Strange! Glad it's sorted tho.... I think Jay is fussier than me, so I can guess how frustrating that must have been.

 

Mike, I've been that man too. Easily done :-) The first clue if you don't spot it straight away is a nice vibration in the floor as the ARB chews it's way through the front pipes, LOL! I hope you fitted the bushes the right way round too ;-)

[davidwort 0]

Basically aside from the wishbones and the some of the section of the subframe all the parts are identical (bush, bolts) As such why is the torque figure for the VR only 70nm plus 90 degress as oppossed to the 16v/G60 which is 130nm?

 

Because the VR wishbones have locating 'horse shoes' for the bushes, the valver/G60 platform doesn't.

 

I've heard that said before when the rear bush bolt sleeves (golf 2 parts) were being discussed - but I'm not so sure, when I changed the wishbones on my 1990 16v it definitely had the locating 'horse shoes', I've had this car for many years and the subframe and wishbones were all original parts.

 

David.

[VRTrickster 0]

No.

 

So any tips at all to determine the play from the column? Is it just a question of taking the under trays out again and having a look around?

I think I read earlier that the column isnt serviceable? So I guess I would have to start looking for a low mileage replacement!

I am really not happy with the steering at the mo. I can only describe it as slack , vague and unpredictable! :mad:

 

So any advice would be great cheers :)