rubber boot on cv joints fecked

[selbekk 0]

okay, so I had my car and my friend's g60 jet ed. up on a (insert word for mech that lifts your car up so you can get dripped oil on) yesterday, and we noticed that the rubber boot around the cv joint on the driver side (LHD remember) was kind of... fecked it looked like, and there was massive amounts of crap in and around it. It looked like it had slipped up half an inch or so. So I guess we'll have to change the rubber boot. The cv joint will hopefully be fine, won't it?

 

How do you change this rubber boot? What would need to come off and so on?

 

cheers, krizzle schizzle selbekkizzle

[2_Door_fun 0]

Hi.

 

First is it the inner or outer boot. ie, wheel or transmission end of the D shaft. I've just yesterday fixed my shafts back on the car. If its the outer then remove the hub nut. Then split the lower ball joint and the steering arm joint. Slipt the shaft out of the hub and cut away the old boot. Clean out the old grease and then get a heavy mallet.

 

Crack the rear of the CV joint and it will pop off. The circlip is pressure based and a swift firm crack will just pop it off. Clean out the joint with a degreaser. Get yr new boot slip it up the bare shaft pack the joint with new grease. Then refit the joint onto the shaft again using a mallet tap the joint onto the splines and then when square on crack it back on to the circlip. Tie wrap the boot at either end and put yer hub back on. Job done.

 

If its the transmission end then the job is the same except you don't remove the outboard joint. You remove the hub as before and then remove the 6 Torx bolts that hold the shaft ont on the transmission based cups. When the shaft is off clean out the grease and you will see a circlip. remove the clip and old boot and tap the joint of the splines. Slip your new boot up the shaft and again repack the joint and transmission cups with new grease. Refit the joint using the new hex key bolts supplied with your boot kit. Use Molybdium based grease to repack all joints. Put car back together and Bob yer uncle so to speak.

 

Should not take ya more than an hour to do a joint.

[Supercharged 2]

The boots have now been superceded by mk5 Golf parts which are plastic rather than rubber so should last much longer...

[selbekk 0]

thanks a lot. I'll have someone do it for me then ;) My mechanic quoted me £40 incl. parts and labour to do it, so I think my friend'll choose that. thanks anyways though, really nice to know how you do stuff. Perhaps I'll do mine, when I have to do them eventually.

 

oh, and it was the outer boot. thx

[A20 LEE 0]

The boots have now been superceded by mk5 Golf parts which are plastic rather than rubber so should last much longer...

 

So if i order new corrado cv boots from the dealers, i actually get the new mk5 items? Rebuilding my driveshafts at the moment with new inner and outer CV joints and the boot supplied by GSF are nasty.

[2_Door_fun 0]

The boots have now been superceded by mk5 Golf parts which are plastic rather than rubber so should last much longer...

 

So if i order new corrado cv boots from the dealers, i actually get the new mk5 items?

 

dealer supplied CV boots!!!! Are you all mad. £2-50 down at the local shop. That will and did do me fine. I had the new plastic boots on my Saab. Very nice weird but ok. Never will I ever buy CV boots from a dealer.

[Supercharged 2]

So if i order new corrado cv boots from the dealers, i actually get the new mk5 items?

 

Yep

[Supercharged 2]

dealer supplied CV boots!!!! Are you all mad. £2-50 down at the local shop. That will and did do me fine. I had the new plastic boots on my Saab. Very nice weird but ok. Never will I ever buy CV boots from a dealer.

 

Why not!?! - The thing with VW dealer parts is that they may be a couple of quid more than motor factors but one they fit and two they last 4 times as long....

[selbekk 0]

some times it's definately better to spend a few extra quid on oem parts. cv joints, and oil filters to name a few.

[StuartFZR400 0]

2_door_fun - do you have time to turn that into a Knowledge Base topic?

 

Its a fairly simple job to do, which many people may need on a 100,000+ miles car.

 

Cheapo parts - whats a couple of quid. You'd think rubber is rubber, but Ive found that copy parts often lack the correct recesses etc for clips and so forth

[2_Door_fun 0]

Yep. I sure do.

 

Actually I have lots of pictures. Got the old digi cam working whilst I was doing the job. I am also part way through writing a how to remove the gearbox guide if ya want that to.

 

Now where did that bolt go ??????? :lol:

[selbekk 0]

every how to guide should start with "find out the size and type of every bolt and screw you are going to use. Buy three or four new sets.", imo anyways ;)

[2_Door_fun 0]

every how to guide should start with "find out the size and type of every bolt and screw you are going to use. Buy three or four new sets.", imo anyways ;)

 

plus a roll of freezer bags to place said bplts n nuts in. Label bag and place on floor. So the wife can pick it up and say oh look it still works without these bits :oops:

[fla 9]

looks like on of mine is mullered - the drivers side one, inner CV boot. Just noticed a line of grease at the back of the engine bay as i was preparing to take the engine out. One of te bolts was look but i dont think that would have accounted for the grease line. Had a bit of a poke and it certainly feels as though the boot has split at the large end. Best way to remove and replace? I am taking the engine out so shold have a relatively clear engine bay!

[fla 9]

this is my inner cv joint, but i just dont know where to look for the circlip to get this off

[Andy T 0]

I've just priced up VR6 Outer CV boot kit from the Dealers, £19.40 each in stock, not too bad I think as they'll probably last the life of the car, pattern ones I've had before have split after a year or so.

 

AVS do Febi ones for £9 each, anyone recommend? I would probably order from AVS if I didn't need it by saturday.

 

AVS do 'Meyle' CV joints for £30, I know they're German but is there quality good?

[joeyboswell 0]

wouldn't mind some info on this as my CV boot is split and the longer I sort it out, the more likely I will need no CV joints. How much is the labour for changing the boot or the joint? What has to be removed to do these jobs? Has anyone heard about the ruuber boots that just wrap around and then seal? My mate mentioned them but sounded a bit sus to me!

[Andy T 0]

wouldn't mind some info on this as my CV boot is split and the longer I sort it out, the more likely I will need no CV joints. How much is the labour for changing the boot or the joint? What has to be removed to do these jobs? Has anyone heard about the ruuber boots that just wrap around and then seal? My mate mentioned them but sounded a bit sus to me!

 

I'd avoid the type that wrap around then clip together or glue together, they are gonna rip apart after a few days/weeks and wreck your CV joints. get it done right and it will last another 10 years.

 

I'd guess at about an hours labour for doing a CV boot.

[joeyboswell 0]

Cheers mate. How much labour for replacing the CV joint...roughly? This Rado is gonna cost me an arm and a leg!

[Wullie 1]

Cheers mate. How much labour for replacing the CV joint...roughly? This Rado is gonna cost me an arm and a leg!

Is that all? Surely two legs.

[davidwort 0]

I've one from AVS on my valver, looks like it's very similar material to the plastic used on VAG ones (rathe than rubber) so should last well, definitely avoid the glue together ones.

 

CV boot requires:

hub nut undone (v tight - need a big breaker bar for this)

two bottom suspension bolts removed to allow hub to be swung out enough to remove outer cv shaft from hub (mark bolt positions on susp leg)

then you have to tap off the out cv joint from the main shaft

slide new boot onclean up cv joint

repack with crease and ressemble everything making sure you get the right camber by putting the bottom suspension bolts back in the same marked position

 

messy job, CV grease, but it's not difficult

 

I like taking CV joints and bearings apart to clean them, it's a nice little puzzle reassembling them :lol:

[joeyboswell 0]

so how many hours labour should a garage charge? I've had enough of doing my own jobs after doing the tensioner pulley and belt. Would love to but lack of space, free time and resources makes it more trouble than it is worth! I just like to have an idea of the labour costs before the garage just tell me one. Cheers lads!

[davidwort 0]

hour seems fair, depends on whether that includes a geometry check afterwards though

[Andy T 0]

A garage should do it by splitting the susp balljoint from the hub carrier, doesn't cause any alignment issues that way.

 

A decent VW specialist that I use charges about £45/hour labour, most garages should be able to give you a price over the phone.

[dbug 0]

I've just priced up VR6 Outer CV boot kit from the Dealers, £19.40 each in stock, not too bad I think as they'll probably last the life of the car, pattern ones I've had before have split after a year or so.

 

AVS do Febi ones for £9 each, anyone recommend? I would probably order from AVS if I didn't need it by saturday.

 

AVS do 'Meyle' CV joints for £30, I know they're German but is there quality good?

 

 

i paid £17 for a complete cv joint kit from GSF inc new boot, grease, clips, bolts,circlip and nuts. ditched the clips for the boot - why are they so hard to fit ?? - and stuck a couple of cable ties on. took an hour or so to do on the drive.