Goldie 2 Posted May 19, 2007 All done!!!!! Finished the job this arvo, have really taken my time about the job to avoid any unpleasent endings... So here a few tips from what ive just been through... The alinement of the cams is straight forward, when the line with OT1 is facing up on the rear cam then you have the correct point of the cycle, as previously stated the slot on the cam at the airbox end will be horizontal and the sprockets will have the manufacturers text at the top.. Id recomend removing the cams with the sprockets still attached, just withdray them under the chain (remembering to tie it up so it doesnt fall). Clamp the cam in a vice on the flats across the 24mm section and undo teh cam bolts, they are stupidly tight and i had to use an impact gaun to get them off.. When fitting the sprockets to the replacement cams they only go on one way... When refitting your on the home straight really, take car not to move the chain round and ensure alignment by turning the engine 4 times, i must have done it about 20 to to make sure!!! Id recomend replacing the bolts on the top chain cover as they arent much cop, mine were all ruined... Put everything back together and start the car ( i was a bit vervous at this point) Took mine for a 5 mile run, it ran fine but started to be a bit jumpy on the way home as i havent got the HT leads on properly, ive got to admit they do my head in, puched them on again and its fine.... Best of luck and take your time... Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Toad 0 Posted May 19, 2007 Good work mate... Was really pleased that you had her running this afternoon. And I'm looking forward to getting a ride when it's all back together... Must admit, I didn't think those studs were coming off last night... I'm glad we persevered with the hammer though! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Goldie 2 Posted May 19, 2007 didn't think those studs were coming off last night... I'm glad we persevered with the hammer though! That makes 2 of us then, i thought i was snookered... Grateful for you assistance though mate, got me out of a corner.... Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Toad 0 Posted May 19, 2007 No worries... Glad I could help. Beats going to the pub and getting rejected by a moose on a Friday evening anyway... Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Mark_Storm 0 Posted May 20, 2007 The majority of them were completely screwed, the headgasket and associated bits were done by VW 4 years ago so a big thanks to them for making an arse of the job... Yep, VW did my chains, headgasket etc about 2 years ago and didn't bother to tighten all of the cam nuts so when Stealth opened it up 2 of the nuts were pretty close to just coming off! Spending money on the cams has potentially saved me a new engine Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
diggerbucket 0 Posted May 20, 2007 Nice one Goldie, good to hear it all went *fairly* smoothly :-P I haven't done mine yet :oops: Was planning on doing it this weekend but been stuck in bed with some kind of virus the last few days :bad-words: Did you put the mani on too? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Goldie 2 Posted May 20, 2007 good to hear it all went *fairly* smoothly Its the usual car working scenario, the job itself isnt rocket science but you will have bolts that dont play the game and obviously you have to remove the manifold and all its trimmings before you get anywhere near.. I havent put the manifold on as the car is off to Gwerks for a VT front mount next weekend and dont want to put it on until the mount is done.. Should make life easier as removing and refitting manifolds with the front of the car on is a a bit tight whereas ill be stripping it all down.. Just allow yourself plenty time, if youve got any questions ill try my best to help.... Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
dinkus 10 Posted May 20, 2007 If you fancy taking some pics while you do it and compiling it all into one post - this would make a useful wiki article when you're done :) Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
diggerbucket 0 Posted May 20, 2007 Not a bad idea that.... will bear it in mind for when I get round to it :) Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Goldie 2 Posted May 20, 2007 If you fancy taking some pics while you do it and compiling it all into one post - this would make a useful wiki article when you're done I tried to do that but phone died while i was doing the job... Id be quite happy to write the 'lyrics' though if needed.. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Kevin Bacon 5 Posted May 21, 2007 Well done mate... All you need to know before you bolt all the manifold and rocker etc back together is that the cams line up like this.... .....the chains look like this.... ...and the crank pulley aligns like this.... Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
diggerbucket 0 Posted May 23, 2007 What do you call the stuff used to seal the chain cover? And where can I get some? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Kevin Bacon 5 Posted May 24, 2007 Silicon sealant. I've tried all the usual stuff, including VW's own white gunk stuff but good old B&Q bathroom sealant is best 8) Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
diggerbucket 0 Posted May 24, 2007 Are you kidding :lol: It stands up the temp changes and oil etc? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Kevin Bacon 5 Posted May 24, 2007 Yep! If you don't trust it, use the VW stuff or Hylomar Blue, or Hermamite red etc etc... Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
dinkus 10 Posted May 24, 2007 Hermamite red Surely that's not a real product name?? :lol: Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Kevin Bacon 5 Posted May 24, 2007 It might be Hermatite actually, my bad spelling..... :lol: Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
jamminvr6storm 0 Posted May 25, 2007 I use Wurth RTV.... black stuff. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
fla 9 Posted December 6, 2007 Well done mate... All you need to know before you bolt all the manifold and rocker etc back together is that the cams line up like this.... .....the chains look like this.... ...and the crank pulley aligns like this.... cant see any images here????? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
peanut 0 Posted December 6, 2007 out of interest, if you didnt fill new tappets the oil would they continue to be starved of oil or would they purge themselves over time and fill up naturally? Gav Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
tonedef 9 Posted December 8, 2007 out of interest, if you didnt fill new tappets the oil would they continue to be starved of oil or would they purge themselves over time and fill up naturally? Gav Yes they would. Always best after a rebuild to pull all the plugs out and crank the engine until you have good oil pressure before actually firing it up anyway, during that time you'd be pressuring up the tappets. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
peanut 0 Posted December 9, 2007 yes they would as in they would fill up naturally or continue to be starved? I unplugged the coilpack before initial fire up to build up oil pressure Gav Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
monzablau16v 0 Posted June 16, 2010 chance i could be attempting this very soon! The replacement 263 cams i have, already have the sprockes on them so i wont need to swap them from my current standard cams (bonus as i heard this is a pita!). So my question is what do i need to do differently in my situation when getting the chain back onto the sprockets after installing the new cams? My understanding so far is that if you undo the sprockets off the old cams then you can leave the chain handing around them so when it comes to reattaching the sprockets to the new cams, you just need to rebolt on the sprockets. However in my case will i have enough play in the chain to get them up and over the sprockets? (sorry for the dim questions.. only ever played with cams on my old 16v which are driven differntly to VR cams) has anyone got a list of the parts and part number of the items that need replacing when doing the cams? So far i have: Essential / worthwile to change: Rocker / CAM cover gasket B 021 103 483 D (check as it depends on chassis #) £9.53 +VAT from TPS Upper to Lower inlet manifold gasket 021 133 227 J £ ? TBD Camshaft position trigger wheel £ ? TBD Cam Chain Upper Cover / Chain Tensioner o-ring seal (little green seal in the top cover near the tensioner bolt) N 900 411 02 £ ? TBD Change dependant on condition: Inlet manifold hex bolts (allen key head bolt M8x30). Full set is 17 bolts, you should only need 7 for the top half. +N 014 726 3 ~£1.60 +VAT each from TPS washer for above bolts +N 011 558 11 ~£0.30 +VAT each from TPS Cam followers / tappets See earlier note from Kev about GSF ones marked with "INA". You will need 12 in total 034 109 309 AD £6.50 each from GSF £4.95 each from AVS Spares/VW Spares - these are Febi ones.. not sure if these are the same quality as the INA ones??? Cam Sprocket Nut (M12x1.5x40) N 102 038 03 £ TBD please, someone who has done this before double check my numbers and add to the list. I will update the prices when i get them from TPS/VW... thanks H Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Kevin Bacon 5 Posted June 17, 2010 You will need to undo one of the sprockets to get enough slack in the chain as you say. I would do the front cam as it undoes a lot easier than the rear cam with the cam sensor trigger wheel on it. Get the INA tappets, they are the same brand as VW's and I've never had a problem with them. Febi and Meyle tappets I have had issues with! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ANDREW 30 0 Posted June 17, 2010 Glad i spotted this guide, i've still got my sp 263's here in a box! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
