VR Timing Chains Replace at mileage or on condition? Discuss

[Yandards 0]

I was having a think about the trend of getting VR chains done at about the 100k point.

 

Now having a engineering background I am all for regular maintenance but I do believe that the current information surrounding timing chain replacement is open to interpretation.

 

I think the best thing to do would be to inspect the chains and tensioners at around the 100k point and replace the tensioners if excessively worn. (On condition) VW did not specify a service point for the chains but again as long as the tensioners are ok I would expect the chains to last more than 100k.

 

Andi's old VR had done over 200k on its original set of chains and the only reason it went pop was because the guy that bought it failed to put oil in it.

 

So who actually knows first hand of people who have had chain failure and at what mileage ?

[Kevin Bacon 5]

I would say check the upper tensioner as early as 80K imo. Mine was shagged at 93K.

 

Stealth have seen excessive wear on an upper pad as early as 70K and negligable wear on one as late as 120K, but the average is 90-100K, hence that being the suggested interval.

 

Chains stretch and they snap, fact. When, why and how is something we have virtually no info on as it's so rare, but if we know they last at least 100K, then it makes sense to replace them as a matter of course when doing the tensioner pads, rather than chancing it.

 

Strictly speaking the chain wheels should be changed aswell, but people seldom do.

 

It's the same with push bikes. I've had 2 snap on me in 18 years of riding bikes, but I change them once a year regardless of how snap proof the maker claims their chain is....and the rear casette and chainrings too.

[craigowl 0]

Ach!, Kev - you screw the guts out of everything anyway! :lol: :wink: :wink:

 

Actually, I asked the question a couple of years ago about anyone having experience of a chain failure, as everyone seemed paranoid on reaching the 100k mark.

 

Yan's suggestion of inspection is a good compromise, I think. The job could cost 25% as much as a reasonable Corrado VR6 costs now, we should remember. We do not all have mates in the know, or the skills to undertake such a job ourselves, after all.

 

Having said that, I do admire kev's swashbuckling drive to replace components regardless of signs of wear (and his wallet!)

 

I don't think I'll ever be coming onto the forum to give kev the satisfaction of knowing I've had a chain failure and VR6 apocalypse now, either! :censored: :oops:

[Kevin Bacon 5]

:lol:

 

There's no guarantee the chains will ever snap, but you can be certain that if you drop the gearbox, replace the tensioners and clutch etc and not the chains..... they'll snap 6 months later :lol:

 

Prevention is better than the cure 8)

[Jim Bowen 1]

mine is on 152,000 and not had them done, not sure if they worn or not, i haven't inspected and don't know how.

 

part of me thinks that if engine dies due to this chain malarky i'll look for a new engine, i can see me getting chains.tensioners done then bottom end going or something like that. so i think its be a waste of money at the moment

[Jim Bowen 1]

apart from piece of mind has anyone noticed any difference to car after having them done?

[Yandards 0]

mine is on 152,000 and not had them done, not sure if they worn or not, i haven't inspected and don't know how.

 

part of me thinks that if engine dies due to this chain malarky i'll look for a new engine, i can see me getting chains.tensioners done then bottom end going or something like that. so i think its be a waste of money at the moment

 

Indeed, a new engine is only around £750 S/H with loom etc these days so about half the price of the chain work.

[Kevin Bacon 5]

apart from piece of mind has anyone noticed any difference to car after having them done?

 

Not chains on their own, but if you get the "big three" (Clutch, chains, head rebuild) then you definitely notice a difference. Mainly the midrange torque is restored because of better valve sealing.

[CorradoVR6-Turbo 0]

My last raddo at 73 k had the top pad worn,stripped a mates VR down at 215k and the pad was well worn away and just running on steel but you would have never know unless you had a look.

[Jon_vr6 1]

Yeah i had the big three done recently and is definately faster than before and it does give piece of mind that they are alright for another 130k!

[RS VR6 0]

Here is my upper guide at about 124k. As you can see its worn just about all the way through. This was taken when my HG, cams, chains, guides, clutch, etc was done in March of this year.

 

Upper right of the engine block...and yes...the water passages got cleaned out. :lol:

[mic_VR 3]

just out of interest, how much would all the parts you need to replace chains, guides, tensioners etc etc if you were going to do this job yourself?

[RS VR6 0]

It cost me about 1000usd for all the parts including a pair of Schrick cams.

[dukest 0]

just out of interest, how much would all the parts you need to replace chains, guides, tensioners etc etc if you were going to do this job yourself?

Its about £300 Mic, and then the £500 that makes up the rest of the £750/800 that people charge for it is about 8 hours labour.

[vr6t 0]

To add to the discussion, there is one vital point most people miss here. When you talk about changing all the chains, tensioners and sprockets, nobody has twiged that to acheive this fully you would need to replace the crank shaft........

Having done a few of these now I would definately look at replacement at 80K of all parts and a good inspection of the crank sprocket teeth. I have been shocked at the amount of side wear you get on a intermiedate sprockets at 80k and above.

[Jim Bowen 1]

but is it fatal?

 

mine probably is worn, but still going fine, a bit noisy around 2.5k rpm, but that probably something else

 

i don't see why someone would do all the head stuff and not the bottom end, i'm saving all mine for a complete rebuild or an engine transplant, seeing as it 150,000 miles theres no point doing 1 bit and not the rest imo

[Kevin Bacon 5]

If the crank sprocket is a removable part, then fair enough, but if not, seems a bit excessive. The hyrdaulic tensioner will take up any slack in the chain gear and if they're so worn as to not mesh properly, you'd soon know about it.

 

It's the same with motorbikes, you're supposed to change the chain and both sprockets but I seldom see people do that.

[ZippyVR6 0]

Well Mine is Noisy. and Now the Summer is back, and Im driving with Windows down again. I reckon it has got noisier over the winter.

 

Does this sound senario sound like chains?

 

 

Pronounced rattle at idle, and chatter on engine braking?

[Kevin Bacon 5]

Visual inspection is the only way to be sure I'm afraid.

[dinkus 10]

Chains make a sort of marble in a can rattling noise mostly. If it makes any sense, it's more of a clatter than a chatter? :lol: It's generally most pronounced at 1500rpm or so when the chains are under relatively low-load.

 

A lot of the noise seems to come from the tappets that make a sort of "chatter chatter chatter" type noise...or uh indeed a tappet tappet tappet type noise :lol:

 

I've got a little video floating about at home that someone posted up aaaages ago of their seriously badly worn chains. Will dig it out and post it up this evening.

 

But as the cheesewire says, best to take a shuftie first.

[dinkus 10]

Ah, I lied, it's a sound clip, not a video but you get the idea.

 

Generally it's a pretty tappety engine (what you hear for the first 8 seconds...

 

Then as the revs start to pick up at 8 seconds in, you can hear the chain rattle.

 

Once the revs go up higher, the chain noise disappears and it's just VR lumpiness again until he lifts off...

[tandino 0]

The chains will only make the marble noise when the upper pad is worn through the polymer and is running over the top two rivets,

Once the rivet heads are worn through the chain noise will go.

[ZippyVR6 0]

Hmm, Cheers Dom, Confirmed my suspicions. Time to bite the bullet.

[dinkus 10]

The chains will only make the marble noise when the upper pad is worn through the polymer and is running over the top two rivets,

Once the rivet heads are worn through the chain noise will go.

 

Ahh interesting to know. That's just going to bring on even more paranoia now...better get the bits orderd up for mine then :lol:

[tandino 0]

Just for reference my chains were on 157000 miles,

Quiet as you like but the top pad was f**ked, through the polymer and both top rivets were long gone.

Only way is visual inspection.