1.8 16v KR: fuel pressure adjusting

[will.s 0]

hi there

 

i own a1.8 16v KR and i has a powerflow full strait-though exhaust system and a KnN roar air box.

i had a look the fuel pressure screw on the side of the k-jet top and i was screwed all the way in! :scratch: .

is this right or would it be running very lean, it seems to loose torqe at around 5000-6500 so could it be lack of fuel??

if so how many turns of this screw shall i make??

 

chears :D

will

[flusted 0]

To adjust the mixture you need a 3mm? allen key down into the meterhead by the rubber boot. to adjust the fuel pressure you need to remove the 15mm bolt on the side of the meterhead and add shims as per haynes.

 

Best get the car to a garage and try and get co set to 2%

[boost monkey 0]

hi there

 

i own a1.8 16v KR and i has a powerflow full strait-though exhaust system and a KnN roar air box.

 

any pics of the roar air box? :scratch:

 

 

it seems to loose torqUe at around 5000-6500 so could it be lack of fuel??

 

Care to be a little more specific? you've just quoted over half the power band!

 

if so how many turns of this screw shall i make??

 

Don't touch it. Take it to a garage as flusted said, but the 3mm allen is used for the CO content I think which isn't the screw on the side, that's the screw hidden away in the top.

[will.s 0]

ok thanks :D

 

a roar box is just a air box made out of foam instead of plastic so maximum air intake.

 

im a bit confused because i no that i need to re-map the ECU because of the air and exhaust upgrades.....

BUT.... i also heard that i can not re-map the fueling system because it is not run by the ECU! :scratch:.

so i guessed that i need reset the mixture needle.... i dont know weather i am correct???? :lol:

 

any help would be great please :)

 

many thanks

:D

[boost monkey 0]

i'm not convinced it will need the mixture adjusting. the foam filter will suck in hot air from the engine and hinder performance and if your exhaust really is a straight through (i.e. no silencer boxes) then you will have some back pressure issues and it will be really loud :shock:

 

but take it to a garage and get them to check it either way.

[Toad 0]

i'm not convinced it will need the mixture adjusting. the foam filter will suck in hot air from the engine and hinder performance .

 

I must admit I'm not convinced about this... When you see how much air the engine sucks in, and the volume being shoved through the grille and around the light when you're doing a reasonable speed, I just can't imagine that the filter would get hot enough to upset anything? The design and flow through the filter would be more important.

 

In traffic it would potentially make more difference, but who needs all your power when you're doing less than 10mph???

[Valerian 0]

a roar box is just a air box made out of foam instead of plastic so maximum air intake.

 

K and N don't make a foam filter box for a valver.

Pipercross make a foam filter air box with a stainless steel frame.

Can't say i've ever heard of a "roar air box" before either.

Are you sure you don't mean a Rohr inlet pipe?

 

Because you are running an open foam filter the engine will be sucking in more air than it would with the standard air box.

Assuming you have a pre-cat valver:-

My advice is to richen the mixture by turning the mixture screw 1/8th of a turn clockwise.

Test run the car and if still not right turn another 1/8th at a time untill you get the right result.

Obviously if it gets worse richening you will need to lean out the mixture 1/8th turn at a time.

 

If you solve the problem this way take the car to a garage to have an emission test just to make sure you are still running legally.

 

I wouldn't say that a straight through exhaust would be doing you any favours to be honest.

From experience anything less than a two box exhaust system can cause rough running at some point through the rev range.

[davidwort 0]

hi there

 

i own a1.8 16v KR and i has a powerflow full strait-though exhaust system and a KnN roar air box.

i had a look the fuel pressure screw on the side of the k-jet top and i was screwed all the way in! :scratch: .

is this right or would it be running very lean, it seems to loose torqe at around 5000-6500 so could it be lack of fuel??

if so how many turns of this screw shall i make??

 

chears :D

will

 

please, if you want a KR to run right, get it set up by someone who really knows K-jet, the reason so many run badly is they've had idle speed CO on the metering head and various other fiddlings done in no particular order to try to correct rough running.

To do the job properly you need the fuel pressures checked, the engine timing and ignition timing checked, and a CO meter to set idle CO, and preferably a rolling road to set the Warm Up Regulator and metering head if needed.

A partially blocked fuel filter or poor injectors or something else pretty fundamentally wrong won't be fixed by tweaks to the CO setting.

a well set up Kr shouldn't need any adjustments for running on a K&n type panel filter or an un-baffled exhaust although the latter may actually rob you torque.

[ben16v 0]

really need someone with aco2 detector to set it up as the smallest turns can make a massive difference, shouldnt cost much takes 10mins, i had mine set to 2% as i seen i should but tbh doesnt make a difference from 1.25 - 1.5%

[Valerian 0]

If your air box looks like this then it's a Pipercross PK223 filter

 

[boost monkey 0]

i'm not convinced it will need the mixture adjusting. the foam filter will suck in hot air from the engine and hinder performance .

 

I must admit I'm not convinced about this... When you see how much air the engine sucks in, and the volume being shoved through the grille and around the light when you're doing a reasonable speed, I just can't imagine that the filter would get hot enough to upset anything? The design and flow through the filter would be more important.

 

In traffic it would potentially make more difference, but who needs all your power when you're doing less than 10mph???

 

The engine sucks air in through the foam filter which will be heated under the bonnet.

 

the space around the headlight is minimal: more useful for the expansion of the headlights due to heat than an actual air intake, and the grille doesn't direct air anywhere near the air filter, just the radiator. the big flaps of plastic either side of the rad see to that!

 

But, agree to disagree :|

[Toad 0]

The engine sucks air in through the foam filter which will be heated under the bonnet.

 

Cheers for the lesson in filtration. Do you actually think I'm a fecking idiot?

 

 

the space around the headlight is minimal: more useful for the expansion of the headlights due to heat than an actual air intake, and the grille doesn't direct air anywhere near the air filter, just the radiator. the big flaps of plastic either side of the rad see to that!

 

But, agree to disagree :|

 

The volume of air the engine consumes is massive, thousands of litres per minute at high revs, do the maths. I simply cannot see that that volume will get heated by a few mm of filter material, the air passes through the filter in micro seconds.

 

The rest of the induction system is more likely to have an effect than the filter.

 

Secondly, the VW snorkle is placed at the back of the headlight, where it clearly does snuffle enough air up.

 

And the plastic guides have no effect on the airflow once it's inside the engine bay, there's loads of it being forced in at any sort of reasonable speed, so some will end up in the air intake. as well as flowing out under the car and out the back of the bonnet.

[boost monkey 0]

I'll call you later Tom, no point muddying this thread just cos we can't agree on stuff.

 

And no i don't think you're an idiot, why would you even think that? I'm hoping you're just having a bad day :salute:

[bcstudent 0]

Secondly, the VW snorkle is placed at the back of the headlight, where it clearly does snuffle enough air up.

I think '"snuffle" just became my word of the day. Nice one 8)

[boost monkey 0]

Possible VW Engineer in the 1990s?

 

[Valerian 0]

I think it should be more of a question of how fast the engine can suck air in when it needs it.

Better throttle response (when the mixture is correct).

 

Anyhew...i hope we haven't fightened Will.s away from the Forum

[will.s 0]

i have been a bit worried about the air intake temperature due to my Pipercross PK223 filter.

climatronic wiring-Golf from May 01.pdfkjet.jpg[/attachment:d8vqoq5q]

 

so i have carried out several air intake temperature tests and the results are:

 

the air around the filter and the air being consumed by the engine is the same as the outside temperature.

when not in motion (in traffic) the intake temperature goes up to about 30 degrees with an outside temp of 13 degrees),

but as soon as the corrado starts to move all that hot air that has gathered up under the bonnet gets forced out the back very fast.

 

i have made a cold air intake mod and here are some pics. (THIS MOD DOES NOT EFFECT THE COOLENT TEMP AT ALL)

2.8l 24v Climatronic system.pdffront2.JPG[/attachment:d8vqoq5q]

inside2.JPG[/attachment:d8vqoq5q]

 

i hope this is helpful :D

[flusted 0]

When i had 1 of those filters, i got a mate to weld a plate on the engine side of the cage as a heatshield