CorradoVR6-Turbo 0 Posted August 11, 2009 looking good mate,remember to take off the clutch slave cylinder when fitting the box as it will be an arse to push back when you try to fit the box on. good progress tho! :D Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
fla 9 Posted August 11, 2009 thanks for that, will do! Btw, what kind of grease should i use for the clutch release bearing? High temp or anything special? Just worried about grease contacting the clutch face. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
CorradoVR6-Turbo 0 Posted August 11, 2009 i just use normal grease, just a thin film of it on the sleeve and release bearing contacts will do....there is probably special VW grease out there somewhere.... Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
fla 9 Posted August 16, 2009 firstly, a HUGE thanks to Zak for his assistance, help and general activity yesterday. Auto is off and manual gearbox is on :clap: or shpould that be :( for me, the lover of an auto corrado! I'll post some pics later today, but there is still a little way to go - as usual i'm a few bolts short for the front mount and a few others, plus the CV boot needs to be changed. Anyway, it will be nice and fresh when its all done. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
fla 9 Posted August 16, 2009 som pics of developments. didnt progress today as far as i would have liked - is there any way to remove the cat heatshileding without removing the downpipe? Pedal box finally fitted and brake servo reinstalled - one of THE most difficult jobs on it so far. The servo does not want ot go back intoplace because there are two bolts on teh suspension turret which push against one of te upper pipes (sheathed in black) which you just cant see. Not sure what they're for, but if i were to do it again, i'd grind them off. also, my origianl holes for the clutch master servo did not line up :( si i had to grind the holes to the right size after fitting the pedal box. Hammerited - looks a right mess! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
fla 9 Posted August 16, 2009 as per the pics above, can the outlet pipe on teh master cylinder be replaced, or sealed up? It doesnt carry any pressure, so i assume some silicone should do the job? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
CorradoVR6-Turbo 0 Posted August 17, 2009 yea that carries no pressure and good hose will do the job mate. looking good mate! :D Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
zak 0 Posted August 17, 2009 good work, did you get the engine back in yesterday? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
fla 9 Posted August 17, 2009 No as i didnt manage to remove teh heat shield from under the gearbox tower to get to the bolts, plus it took us aaaaaaaages to get the pedal box and brake servo in. Some colourful language i can tell you, my dad was not impressed with my foul mouth :nono: I need to get the cv boot (hopefully today, swop that over, change the selector tower then hopefuly wheel it in. Then the weekend to sort out the niggles - Zak, you free again? :notworthy: Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
zak 0 Posted August 17, 2009 the hardest bits are out the way so shouldnt be too long untill you get it back in, will let you know about the weekend. I have a tight schedule of things to do for my own car too :) Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Jim Bowen 1 Posted August 17, 2009 never seen this thread before. Car looks really nice, blue and cream is always a winner 8) Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
fla 9 Posted August 17, 2009 left the camera at home today so no shots, but finally managed to get the downpipe bolts off. Gave some space to move the heat shielding. Then ran out of light so i couldnt get the selector tower changed over. There's no such thing as "i'll *just* do this job" on thecorrado - i was meant to have swopped the selector tower on the weekend, but i only get a few hours after work now. The plan is to have it all done by the weekend - yeah right! Anyway, gave me time to clean up the engine bay with an oily rag. 15 years of crap coming off. Couldnt remove the inner CV joint circlip - that was another 'i'll just take the cv boot off'. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
fla 9 Posted August 18, 2009 its starting to take shape! Got the gear selector tower in - the way to dom this without dropping the cat completely is to remove the spin washers on both th front and rear heatshields, remove the front cat flange and slide the front heat shield towards the engine to access the front bolts. Then slide the rear heatshield back to access the rear bolts. The selector tower then needs to be held in place in teh cabin by someone else (my dad :) )as you refit the screws. Need to change the inner CV boot which will be tomorrow evening's project, so that's one lost evening. The selector view is more familiar to you all, but for me its still a novelty :clap: Anyway, some pics: Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
fla 9 Posted August 19, 2009 didnt get very far today as i only have about 2 hours in the evening. spent about 1 hour trying to fit two heat shields above the cat only to find it wouldnt work :censored: Two other things holding me up though - i just cant seem to work out how the hell to get the inner CV boot off (see pic). Also, i cant engage the gears in the box from the selector tower - i'll post up the query in another thread. anyway, pic of the inner cv if anyone can help: Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
fla 9 Posted August 24, 2009 a few more pics - got most of the interior done, pedal box, steering column back in, which was a pain and adjusted the brake pedal (perhaps too much) to actuate the brake light. Changed the water pump - old one was ok, but had bought a new one to eliminate a suspected high water temp. Thought i may as well fit it and keep the old as a spare. replaced teh drivers inner CV boot - not too bad after Corrado VR6Turbo told me how. Took about half an hour, but i cut the old boot off as it seemed pretty stuck for some reason. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
CorradoVR6-Turbo 0 Posted August 24, 2009 I can see the cables has the early bracket mate,possibly this is the reason for the cable lenght being short for the VR box. :scratch: As for your brake pedal and clutch, i would set the brake pedal and clucth to the hight you want and the pull the centre of the brake switch out as it self adjusting,try it you will see what i mean :wink: james Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
fla 9 Posted August 24, 2009 thanks for that James - i've got another set of cables, they're not so good, but fitting them is a right pain. Will changing the front mount brcket help or are the cables themselves actually too short? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
CorradoVR6-Turbo 0 Posted August 24, 2009 i really dont know mate,im sure the bracket on the box will be at fault rather than the cables,but its at a guess. :( Edit. ETKA part number for the cables are the same. But brackets are different in part numbers....the one you have is for 4cyl versions. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
fla 9 Posted August 25, 2009 thanks for that James. You couldnt by any chance send me a pic of the bracket on your car, as i have a few from Zaks but it looks like the cables are vertical rather than horizontal. It could also be as simple as the cable being twisted or caught in the heat shield. Also, should the rubber spacers on the slector cables at the end of the heatshield be visible from the engine or hidden in the heat shield (if that makes sense)? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
_leon_ 0 Posted August 25, 2009 Hasan if you post a picture of what you want a comparison of - I can take one later too Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
fla 9 Posted August 25, 2009 thx Leon. These are the two cable brackets, one that i have the other on Zaks car. The pic of Zaks one is not too clear though Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
-=Kris=- 0 Posted August 25, 2009 i really dont know mate,im sure the bracket on the box will be at fault rather than the cables,but its at a guess. :( Edit. ETKA part number for the cables are the same. But brackets are different in part numbers....the one you have is for 4cyl versions. what software is that?! i could sooooo do with that! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
CorradoVR6-Turbo 0 Posted August 25, 2009 thanks for that James. You couldnt by any chance send me a pic of the bracket on your car, as i have a few from Zaks but it looks like the cables are vertical rather than horizontal. It could also be as simple as the cable being twisted or caught in the heat shield. Also, should the rubber spacers on the slector cables at the end of the heatshield be visible from the engine or hidden in the heat shield (if that makes sense)? Ive just looked at mine and its the same as what you have! just shows i dont pay attention sometimes :camp: The cables sit ontop of each other like your bracket. Dont know about the rubber rings on the cable,im sure they are to keep the cables away from the tunnel,not sure if this is a problem tho. When you say to short...im what way? can you not just pull them untill they fit or have you locked off the gearshift from mooving? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
_leon_ 0 Posted August 25, 2009 Hasan Ive taken pics - not uploaded yet - but it is the same part as the pics youve posted above... looks identical Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites