Rad elbow problem. Aaagh Help please

[PROVR6 0]

Haven't been in the car for about a month, so I thought id better give the ol girl a drive today. Battery struggled but started the car first time after a couple of slow churns, gonna charge it overnight. The coolant light decided to come on and flash, so I decided not to drive it. I went to check the coolant but could not get the damn cap off (Ive got one of the nice brown coolant resevoirs where you can't see the level from the outside). Is it worth trying to heat the cap or is brute strength and mole grips the answer?

 

Is it likely that the coolant level could have dropped due to cold weather without being driven as I do check it regularly? The owners manual also states it could be the radiator fuse, so Ill check that tommorrow. If the coolant level and fuse are ok, is there anything else worth checking?

[Guest]

I had exactly the same question a week or so ago.

Hopefully this will help!

 

viewtopic.php?f=1&t=87427

[CazzaVR 0]

Just tap the side of the cap with a hammer to move it anti-clockwise. Always works for me :)

[PROVR6 0]

Just an update, Checked the fuses they were fine. Got the coolant cap off with a hammer (nice tip) and the coolant was below the minimum so topped it up to max. The coolant light now stays off. I had a check for any leaks but couldn't see any so will have to keep an eye on it.

[PROVR6 0]

The light has come on again Grrr :mad2:

 

I couldn't find an obvious leak, so used some cardboard under the car. The leak appears to be at the front middle of the car. I can see a continuous drip when the engine is running by laying on the floor but can't see where its coming from.

 

I haven't got any ramps etc but can jack the car up with the standard jack.

 

Any ideas on the likely source?

[tandino 0]

Id have a guess and say thermostat housing area from your description..

[PROVR6 0]

Decided to have another look under the car tonight at the coolant drip, but sods law it wouldn't do it. Whilst under the car I noticed a drip between the join on the exhaust after immeadiate start up - anything to worry about?

 

Anyhow I took the car for a drive to see if it would cause the coolant to drip after the engine was hot. The oil temp gauge on the MAF started to go up as normal and got to about 70degrees then started to go back down all the way to the 3 dashes, its never done that before. Restarted the car but made no difference and wouldn't register a oil temp. Got back to my house and left the car idling and the oil temp reading worked again and registered the right temp. Was this just a glitch or could it be related to the coolant loss.

 

Looked under the car again and could see no drips, but looked under the bonnet and there is some liquid by the radiator elbow. Could this be the coolant leak or just condensation (it was bone dry before I set off as I made sure to look).

 

Ive attached a couple of pics.

 

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Dsc03972b.jpg[/attachment:112pkuqb]

[tandino 0]

I would say the water leak is from the elbow, from memory there is a rubber O-ring to seal against the radiator, worth having a look when the cooling system has de-pressurised.

A bit of sweat from an exhaust joint is perfectly acceptable and i wouldnt worry unless its noticeably blowing.

[fla 9]

for the oil temp, check the spade connector on top of the oil filter housing - may be a bit mucky or loose, which would lead to no reading on the MFA.

[PROVR6 0]

Due to time and lack of funds I haven't got round to tackling this yet but am ready now.

 

Im thinking of buying a new elbow and seal from the dealer. Can i just undo the existing one and put the new one on, or do I need to drain the coolant?

 

Anyone else had a leak in this area?

[Jon_vr6 1]

You should be able to just undo it make sure the car is stone cold though, you may have a bit of coolant come out of the top hose when you disconnect it but just cable tie it out the way and replace the elbow. Hope yours is just a simple fix as in just the elbow and o ring as when we went to replace the GF's car elbow we could see a split right down the radiator itself so had to get a new rad

 

Good luck

[PROVR6 0]

Got my bits from the dealer and had a go today. Looked real easy but didn't pan out that way. I sprayed the two hex bolts with wd40 the 2 nights before to help. Used my hex socket on my drill and the fuckers wouldn't budge.

 

Started to worry it might be a reverse thread so looked in the Bentley and couldn't find any mention of it.

 

Switched guns to a spanner and with brute strength it started to budge. Gave it some more and it cracked the bottom plastic bit it screws into on the rad. Now it just turns makes the crack bigger and then the crack closes up again after the bolt has turned. Can't get the bolt out.

 

Can someone tell me if it is a reverse thread and have I inadvertantly overtightened it? (I turned counterclockwise). How do I get the bolts out and can the plastic section be repaired with some resin or something?

 

I sure has hell don't want to fork out for a new rad and have the front of the car off.

[PROVR6 0]

any suggestions? :tumbleweed:

[Jon_vr6 1]

New radiator im afraid

[iceviolet 0]

u could try grind the heads off the bolts and then try and salvage the brass inserts that the screws screw into by using araldite or jb stick weld or similar, to fix them back in place. All depends how bad the crack is and where, If the crack is bad and is close to the pressurised part then its definately a new radiator.

[PROVR6 0]

Tryed to undo the other nut, and it turns but won't unscrew. I think over time its rusted into the brass holders and they just turn with it.

 

In the pic below (not mine but alas a fellow corrado sufferer :( ) the gold arrow points to the area which has cracked. Im hoping that the crack can be filled with some plastic weld and that it hasn't cracked on the inside, which i won't know until I get the elbow off.

 

RADLOOSETHREAD-VR62.jpg[/attachment:5ncmvrc5]

 

Reading some other threads, someone suggested using a longer bolt and a nyloc nut which seems a good idea. Does anyone know if the bolt holes are sealed or go all the way through? Also do you think I would still need the brass clamps with the nyloc nut method?

 

At the moment I am unable to get the elbow off. I was hoping at least one bolt would come out so I could create a gap to prise the other bolt and brass insert together. Any other ideas of how to remove the elbow?

 

At the moment the car drives and loses coolant quite slowly. If i try to force the elbow off and crack the rad Im fooked as I can't do that myself and won't be able to drive to the garage. :gag:

 

Got to say, I think this is a real bad design. If I bought a brand new rad, does it still use the brass inserts?

[James. 9]

If I bought a brand new rad, does it still use the brass inserts?

 

An OE one does as that's what I bought recently. The rear spoiler collar uses a similar brass insert and that did a similar thing to me.

 

If it's any use, I have an old radiator that I don't mind butchering for bits, should you need them.

[Toad 0]

If it's started cracking, then it'll only be a matter of time until it goes completely. I'd bit the bullet and get a new radiator. I can't see you removing the bolt now the insert has started spinning.

[CazzaVR 0]

Yep, exact same thing happened with my first VR. Just kept opening up and leaking, so it was new rad time in the end :(

[dannyboy 0]

think you need to change your coolant fellow! :gag:

New rad will save time,grief and the engine when rad goes pop or youll be getting a vist from mr tow truck :lol:

[PROVR6 0]

I think you guys might be right. Took it for a drive and where ive been yanking it about, the coolant is pissing out. Reckon I can just about top it up and drive it to the garage.

 

Id rather not use the garage as they can be a bit careless and got a dent in my door last time I used them, but they are close.. :(

[James. 9]

The tightening force (according to Bentley) for the neck bolts is 10nm. Useful to know as to avoid the same issue again. Best of luck.

[sparks 0]

bite the bullet and change the rad there 105 from gsf

 

and you will probly find that your radator fixing clips the one that bolt to the front slam and clip into the rad has causes the leak it did it on mine sometime people tighten the clip on the eblow side too much and it pierces the plastic rad mine was like this

 

useful tip is to grind about 3 mm off the clips and refit to prevent it happening !!!

[dannyboy 0]

 

useful tip is to grind about 3 mm off the clips and refit to prevent it happening !!!

 

I used to do that!!strange how some people do the same things :cuckoo:

[CazzaVR 0]

I would only go VAG with a replacement rad. You get what you pay for. Try it yourself- my first one took an afternoon a few years back, and I'm not very mechanically minded. Taking the front end off is actually dead simple!