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captainredeye

Why why why my Engine!

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I'm thinking of buying a VR that has a Schrick installed and just wondering, does the manifold have to come out if you want to change the spark plugs?

 

If it's a Schrick rather than a VW VSR then yes it has to come off for a plug change.

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I dont know why everyone sees it as a problem to be honest with taking the manifold off.

 

1) 10 minute job

2) you'd probably only change your plugs every 6 - 12 months for your average user

3) As long as your careful with the cardboard gaskets your ok..

4) Gives you an opertunity to check everything else in the immediate area is all in order...

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Your right Pete it is quite straight forward but would take me more than 10 mins to do but then i don't i like to rush what i'm doing.

I did a service on the car just before i installed the manifold to save removing it a few months later.

Madjackal i would ask the current owner when the plugs were last changed might give you peace of mind for a bit, but really i wouldn't worry to much as the improvement the manifold makes, will out weigh the small amount of hassle with the spark plugs.

 

Oh and a hella radiator it is VR6Pete! I looked at your thread and the great work you have done on the engine bay, i have 5 days off work soon so i will see what else i can get up to when i replace the radiator.

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Righty then, spent just a little over a day getting the radiator fitted needed a new radiator cowl but couldn't find one in good enough nick so have just tided the old one up apparently its the same part that goes on an s reg passat tdi 357121207F as that had twin fans too.

Also spent the time cleaning up all the bits to go back on and took the opportunity to wax oil the front of the chassis all in all been a straight forward job just a load of the usual stuck bolts.

Here is a link for the Hella radiator http://www.radiatorshop.net/products/volkswagen-corrado-29-i--vr6 £115 posted it comes from germany and not the uk so takes 2 days not 1, the guy selling them also phoned up to let me know this, cant say i was too fussed.

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Have a lot of work planned for the c, have some refurbed 288 brakes to install also a load of polybushes to fit to sharpen everything up.

I'm considering coilovers but still a little undecided on what to get as want to be able to adjust the dampening wiltshire roads may not have speed cameras but they ain't smooth either!

While I have the suspension off is there any jobs worth doing while having the shocks and wish bone off?

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Here's a couple of pic of the 288 calipers before they go on, have had them shot blasted and sprayed them silver using halfords caliper paint to keep them looking new and standard! Just hope the paint last as they have come up well.

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Nice!

 

Chose a chrome paint and said i wanted it darker was not sure 100% what i was getting but pleased all the same.

 

Driving the car normally, do you find any difference with the MPG now the Schrick is on?

 

Yeah its easy to get in the 30's after only 5 miles but my vr is affected quite a bit by the outside temp, summer i can get 35-36 on a short journey, winter 22-23 which hurts the wallet! Have 160k on the clock with no work ever been done to the engine apart from yearly full service, it like's the oil A LOT but is still runs smooth.

Think it might benefit from a remap the stainless exhaust popped and crackled loads. When i installed the manifold it calmed it all down!

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Just noticed this thread, and it is spookily similar to mine - Schrick in, water leak, new rad needed, 288 brakes...

 

Planning on a Climatronic conversion next? ;-)

 

Remap helps with the Schrick by the way, especially with pinking at 3k rpm under full load. I also got some 268 Schrick cams in mine, gave it to Stealth for the remap, and now it pulls nicely all the way to the line.

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Climatronic should be rather unique. I'm planning on coilovers but may have hold some cash back for a remap not sure if dg autotech still do there came and remaps.

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Climatronic should be rather unique. I'm planning on coilovers but may have hold some cash back for a remap not sure if dg autotech still do there came and remaps.

 

Yes DG still do the cam's and remap, they done mine for me last week and I'm really pleased with the drive now. Getting it dyno'd tomorrow to see what it's putting out, just a shame I didn't do it before too!!

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Once again a very quick MOT only pointers were front tyre worn but have a brand new set of wheels and tyres to go on and a mild bit of corrosion on one of the metal brakelines which i can get on with next week!

Plus the mot tester wanted to know if i was selling, he fancied one for a while and it being a known car knew it was sound, well chuffed its nice to know some one else appreciates that you take good care of your vehicle.

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Replaced the gear box mount with a solid rubber job the old oil filled one went and exploded, really has made a big difference to the way the car accelerates does feel a lot smoother.

I did a service as well replacing oil and the spark plugs, put it all back together and 2 or 3 cylinders weren't firing so off came the schrick manifold Again(Bah) leads were correct but cleaned every thing up with a bit of paraffin and all was working again, Nice.

I wanted to hold out putting the refurbed speedies on but the old front tyres were far to worn and might of got me in trouble, shopping tomorrow for a paint to match the rims for the centre caps and also bought some plastic bolt covers in grey just to smarten things up, the rims due to the chrome paint go silver in sunlight but go a nice gun metal when its dark, think it works well with the cars pearlescent paint. I will try and get some better shots when the sun is out.

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Spent the past two days in A very on off fashion thanks to work fitting New coilovers and bushes also have done all the top mounts.

In the process of putting on the 288 brakes but have found the metal brake lines on both side are corroded, so have bought a flaring kit and new pipes and bolts, so will be fitting these will do these and then see if I'm brave enough to the rest, going to use copper lines so should last longer.

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Some pics will be on there way soon. The car is currently propped up with no wheels, did a trial fit as I was worried the calipers would knock the wheel weights but there's plenty of room!

The corroded brake line was the only advisory on the mot so doing them will give the c a clean sheet, I might knock up some sort of boot to protect the bolts from the elements, but we shall see.

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Have my self 25ft off brake line to practice with, the first pic is attempt one the second pic is of attempt ten I'm now looking for a new flaring bit as I broke it on attempt eleven . If I can do a good enough job on the front two lines Im going to have a stab at the rest

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Alot if it is down to quality of the tools used, you will get a flare a cheap set up but it's so much easier to do with a good quality set up

 

My Sealy kit cost close on £200 about ten years ago, but is so quick and easy to use and get good results with

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Is it the handheld one??

 

A good bench/ vice mounted one is what you want

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Handheld job with different die sizes, i like the look of the tools that encase the pipe completely and the die is threaded and screwed down onto the pipe. Nothing can move that way and you should get the same result each time.

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My sealey is like that , two halts of a wedge surround the pipe, you then put a blank die/ centring die in to the end wind it down in place , it moves the pipe in to the right place and pushes the wedge back to hold the pipe in place, unscrew the die , put the flare die in place and repeat gives a perfect end every time

 

The handheld ones are useful, we used to have one and a fed ends some pipe etc with us when we went off roading, great for an emergency repair

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