Larger 16v Inlet Manifold

[aide 0]

Guys - Just purchased the enlarged inlet manifold for the 16v from volksline spares… (nice blue colour instead of red) :lol:

 

I’ve been told it’s a straight bolt on affair (besides the purchase of a new gasket?) is there any other difficulties I should be ready for :?: Assume someone must of done this!

 

Appreciate any comments, cheers :wink:

[Henny 0]

you'll need the gasket between the head and the lower manifold, the gasket between the upper and lower manifold halves, and the gasket between the throttle body and the manifold if you're gonna do it right... 8)

 

Other than that, it's pretty easy to do, and it is a straight swap. 8)

[aide 0]

Cheers Henny - had a sneaking feeling you'd be the first to reply :lol:

 

What's powergain like? Can I expect a bit more torque, or do I have to Port & Polish head, exhaust manifold... straight through exhaust etc..?!

 

D'ya reckon my 15p/ mile company fuel will cover :D he he

[h100vw 0]

You might get 3 hp according to VWs figures!!! It depends what engine you have, KR or 9A. You are unlikely to increase torque as the larger ports will slow down the airflow rather than increase the airflow, which would promote torque.

 

I drove a pair of 16V Golfs last year back to back. A Dreg and an F. The D with the small bore manifold just didn't pull at the top end like the F plate. They felt pretty similar otherwise.

 

You do need both parts of the manifold. Not just the top half.

 

Gavin

[GazzaG60 0]

the f plate's still pullin at over 150k

 

anyone got a set of side strips for a big bumber model they wanna get rid of.

[aide 0]

WOW 3 bhp - best upgrade the brakes!!

 

Yep - got both parts though, am assuming this is a step in the right direction for porting!

 

re the block - dunno its a G 16v so does that mean its a definite KR?

[Henny 0]

WOW 3 bhp - best upgrade the brakes!!

 

Yep - got both parts though, am assuming this is a step in the right direction for porting!

 

re the block - dunno its a G 16v so does that mean its a definite KR?

 

It's not the BHP that it's designed to change, it's meant to change the profile of the torque curve, the thinner one giving more low down, and the wider one more up top torque... (pretty much mirrors what Gav says above!)

 

If it's a 1.8 original 16V, then it's a KR lump... 8)

[aide 0]

Ok - cheers lads

 

I'll stick it on this weekend and see how I live with it...

 

Given what Gavin said re. air speed, it'll at least give me chance to polish the existing manifold :roll:

[Kevin Bacon 5]

the f plate's still pullin at over 150k

 

anyone got a set of side strips for a big bumber model they wanna get rid of.

 

I've got a complete set of genuine MK2 post 90 arches, sill covers and side mouldings sitting in my cupboard....would rather sell the whole lot though.

 

K

[Kevin Bacon 5]

If you've got an 1800 KR and fit KStar KS-301, you'll find the smaller manifold better to be honest.

 

I put a 44mm manifold on my old black F reg Golf 16V and Vince and I spent a couple of hours on the dyno optimising the Kstar box to the manifold and we found an extra 10lb-ft torque at 4,100rpm with no loss of pull at the top end.

 

You might also benefit from a vernier cam wheel on the venerable valver, 2.0 16V engines can also enjoy a 10ft-lb boost from that alone.

 

K

[Rossco 0]

I've done it, bloody ace wen 5000rpm comes along like a wee mini turbo only a whol eheao cheaper and not as ace obviously, but yeh its a pretty easy job like, hardest part was pullin the injectors out of the old manifold. I gather you've got new injector seals????

[aide 0]

Been out the office for a while!!

 

Didn't manage to do last weekend :(

 

Thanks for tip on Injector seals Harry, will sort some out from the stealers.

[Kevin Bacon 5]

Just pull the injectors out when the engine is hot. They literally flop out then.....

 

Stick some grease around the seals when putting them back in again.

[flusted 0]

Let us know wot it feels like when youve fitted it as i might do the same thing

[aide 0]

no worries - will let you know.

 

Am hoping to do tomorrow but keep getting diverted every chance i get....

[aide 0]

Ok sorted it - took longer than expected though.... some of those bolts are buggers to get at, technically easy though like you lot said :lol:

 

Performance - feels a wee bit perkier from 3500rpm upwards, not a lot in it though, but worth doing. Tone of the engine has changed to, the induction whistle has gone up an octave!!

 

Obviously - i've now got a problem, car seems to start bit slower - but I suspect cold start valve has finally given up. The real concern is after a good run, the engine seems very bumpy at idle - not much good at fuel management side of things, anyone got any ideas :?:

 

Incidentally the ISV seems to be working tonnes better, previously revs dipped and recovered when taking foot of gas - now just settles dowm nice and calm 8)

[h100vw 0]

Tickover basic settings may need adjusting. Disconnect red/black wire by the coil adjust tickover and timing as req. Reconnect wire. Assuming you are 1800 16V. Nowt you can do to a 2 litre.

Gavin

[aide 0]

Cheers - seems to have done trick!!

[flusted 0]

Converted mine yesturday and you really notice the difference in 2nd gear at 5000rpm it pulls like a train :lol:

[davidwort 0]

Converted mine yesturday and you really notice the difference in 2nd gear at 5000rpm it pulls like a train :lol:

 

are you sure it hasn't just worsened the torque at lower revs so it feels like there is more at the top end? only way to really tell would be back to back tests on a rolling road, but given that the rest of the engine is unaltered a larger bore intake results in lower gas speeds and so lower torque.

 

David.

[flusted 0]

yes it has reduced torque slightly at about 3-4k but it feels as if its increased loads at 5k feels the same in 1st gear but 2nd as i said really kicks at 5k.I only changed it really cos the larger one i had was polished and im smartening my engine bay up :lol:

[aide 0]

are you sure it hasn't just worsened the torque at lower revs so it feels like there is more at the top end? only way to really tell would be back to back tests on a rolling road, but given that the rest of the engine is unaltered a larger bore intake results in lower gas speeds and so lower torque.

David.

 

Personally I don 't much care if it's killed the already useless talk at low speed, though it doesn't feel like it has :D

 

Besides the enhanced performance we can feel, i could only refer you to the VW figures for the KR and this enlarged manifold, and the posts above

 

Re the gas speeds, it's accepted greater gas speed = greater torque. However, in this case, I believe the minor bhp gain and torque increase at high revs is due to the induction being 'easier' from a larger manifold and only minimally 'faster'.... :!: this larger bore advantage was probably maximised by VW in design of larger manifold for mass production, and thereafter air flow is probably inversely proportional to induction speed :?: All that said, it's no match for a polish of the smaller manifold.

 

Now everyone feel free to slate my feeble explanation :lol:

[Ronaldovw 0]

I agree with David, there is no proof that the 50mm intake increases performance. More like moves it around.

If you want up top power you can't beat a pair of cams in the 16V.

Personaly I think you need as much low down as possible otherwise, with the 16Vs long gear ratios you can easy end up in a flat spot. No matter how much you have high in the revs.

 

I looked into almost every conceavable mod for the 16V and dounf that the best ones are:

 

2.0 bottom end

Cams (I used Kent)

Head work (although this is pricey and the gains are not as good as the above.)

[aide 0]

 

2.0 bottom end

Cams (I used Kent)

Head work (although this is pricey and the gains are not as good as the above.)

 

getting really tempted by this 2.0 bottom end people keep talking about :!: i know it's the 9A - but i aint ever attempted a mod like this before :roll: - how difficult/ timely are we talking?

 

re. the cams i've heard the existing ones are good as it is, my local performance place TSR does some fast roads of their own dunno what they're like tho, take it you've got the kent gf1602r cams?

 

what power you looking at as i've got the opportunity to take my motor of the road for a while? And i'm getting itchy fingers :D

[Ronaldovw 0]

The only figures I have are what my backside told me and from racing other peoples cars.

My car had a Stage2 ported polished head - Kent GS1602R cams - K-star + extra injector and the usual exhaust and filter mods.

 

The gains from the headwork felt marginal and I'd only do this expensive mod if you have to strip the head and get the valve guides done (around 100K miles)

The K-star was anice mod and let me use 95 Ron fuel but at £400 the gains where not that amaizing.

 

The Cams where by far the best bang for the money, car had a lot more power above 5K and pulled hard to the limiter.

Bottom end was un affected so no worries with torque.

 

The 9A mod is pretty involved and if your not clued up on building engines I would get someone else to do it.

Dave Wort fitted his own so he's the man to talk to.

I the short of it. You will need to remove the head and a lot of the ancillarys, then unbolt the gear box/exhaust manifolds etc

Un bolt the engine mounts and remove the block. The 9A block is a straight swap so no worries there.

The problem is that while this is being done you may as well get the head re-furbished (Ported etc) fit a new clutch and fix any other bits n bobs.

 

Looking at £300-500 for a 9A block and around £500 labour + 500 for head work etc So not cheap!