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Jim

Siezed calliper(s), or handbrake cable problem?

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Just tried to reverse the VR off the drive and found lots of resistance making me think a calliper is stuck.. went to put the handbrake back on and found it slack, as if it hadn't released the handbrake mechanism. Tried to release several times but no dice.. tried throwing hot water on them and gave them a blast with the girlfriends hairdryer for a few minutes but no dice.

 

Does this sound like the mechanism has siezed on the calliper (which is what I think it is) or likely to be related to the cables?

 

Typical I just had a f*cking week off, I've just declared the red car as SORN until next month, and the day before I need it to go to work, the car goes and f@cks me over. Bastard thing.

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its a cable issue , exactly the same happened to me last year , it was the drivers side handbrake cable stuck, i worked the handbrake up and down, in the end i got a hammer and punch , and tapped the handbrake leverpart on the stuck on calliper side, i freed up, but happened again the next day, ordered a new cable, all fine since.

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B*llocks. Cables are not only a pain to change as I understand it, but haven't they been obsoleted too? :|

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They're not a big pain to change at all really, although you need to partially dismantle the centre console to do it, better to take a seat out.

 

In terms of the caliper end, it's very straightforward. I'm not sure about the obsolete issue, I wouldn't have thought they'd be Corrado-specific, there must be an equivalent fitted to other VAG cars from the same era?

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You know I got away with dropping some light oil into the cable outer (done by lifting the rubber boot at each cable on the caliper side)- mine froze up all the time last year but never had any problems since doing this (and it was minus 8 this morning)- Think its just when you get water into the cables which lock up solid when its cold.

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They're not a big pain to change at all really, although you need to partially dismantle the centre console to do it, better to take a seat out.

 

In terms of the caliper end, it's very straightforward. I'm not sure about the obsolete issue, I wouldn't have thought they'd be Corrado-specific, there must be an equivalent fitted to other VAG cars from the same era?

 

Interior dismantling I can handle. I'm guessing I'd need to jack up and remove the wheel too? Just had a look on ETKA and the cables are only £18/side (assuming they're still available) so will get onto my stealers tomorrow and see if they can get them. Might as well buy both as I've no idea which side has siezed.

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You know I got away with dropping some light oil into the cable outer (done by lifting the rubber boot at each cable on the caliper side)- mine froze up all the time last year but never had any problems since doing this (and it was minus 8 this morning)- Think its just when you get water into the cables which lock up solid when its cold.

 

Ooh ok might try that. First time I've had this and was only using the car the other evening. Must just be the combination of grit and cold!

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Removing the rear wheels will definitely improve access to the job. I reckon an hour to do both sides at the most, and that includes thinking time :)

 

I had a problem with my old VR6 handbrake cables freezing so whenever I parked it at night I just left the handbrake off until I replaced the cables. However I park on a flat area so it wasn't a problem for me.

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Yeah - my intention was just to leave the handbrakes off if I did manage to free it as the drive is fairly flat and where I park at work is too. But the car had other ideas! :)

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I had this issue last winter, the moisture gets inside the runner and freezes the end of the cable. It doesn't def mean the cable is goosed but he rubber boot may be perished and letting the moisture in.

As mentioned above, detaching the end of the cable from the caliper, clean up the cable and coat liberally with copper ease or grease. If there's enough under the boot and it's not perished that should stop further problems.

 

The cables are not available from VAG anymore according to my dealer. i couldn't believe it, but defo not. :-(

 

total pain in the neck when it happens.

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Jim, they're pretty easy to change TBH. I did mine on my green VR, without knowing how to do it before hand, and it was very painless. VW spares do Febi ones for around £10 a side if you can't get them from VW :)

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Funny you have this problem jim,mine is just started doing the same last night! I just got under the car and twatted the arm mechanism with a small hammer and drift+ put a little grease on the arm. wondered why my rear brake discs starting to look like my fronts :lol:

 

mine has the usual play in the h/brake handle and not return on spring pressure. i just leave mine in gear after freeing it off otherwise im back to square one :mad2:

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Seems to be a common problem. :?

 

Had this happen to me last year Jim, was til i got a mile down the road when i smelt the horrible burning smell. Dont like to risk it this year and have just left the car in gear, with only the handbrake one click.

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all three of the G60s ive had had the same prob every year.Most be quite common.

 

Waiting for the delivery of my winter tyres and then im going to give mechanism good clean and regrease.always seems to solve 90 % of the problem

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Jim, they're pretty easy to change TBH. I did mine on my green VR, without knowing how to do it before hand, and it was very painless. VW spares do Febi ones for around £10 a side if you can't get them from VW :)

 

Ah groovy. I had heard that VW ones were obsolete hence my concern so will make do with some Febi ones. Can just get them ordered and sent to me too rather than running around to the dealers!

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I got the chassis number but was just confused about the sequence.. their site says:

 

Up to.. 50-S-000361 -> (1640mm)

From.. 50-S-000362 -> (1614mm)

 

My chassis number is ......50.S.002821

 

So that means I need the later, shorter ones?

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Glad it's not just me. I'll have a quick nose at the parts catalogue as that shows two different versions depending on chassis number and might be a bit clearer!

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you sure it's not a caliper release meachanism problem Jim?

you should be able to force the mechanism back at the caliper if it is just getting stiff, when I had rear calipers go the handbrake went floppy, unless the cable actually breaks I can't see really needing to replace one, in any case if it did snap and the caliper was still binding it would def be the caliper.

A temporary handbrake cable freeze should be possible to free off pretty easily, the end rubber boot on the handbrake cable splits and a little water could get in there I guess, but I can't see it binding the brakes on for long.

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Hm... looks as though it's the later ones I need.... VIN's for 1995 actually start from 01.07.1994 and increment as follows:

 

01.07.1994 --> 50-S-000001

 

Then by end of January they're:

 

31.01.1995 --> 50-S-001985

 

So the longer cable would only be for cars produced up to around mid September 1994. I think.

 

Seems mine is quite a late car!

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you sure it's not a caliper release meachanism problem Jim?

you should be able to force the mechanism back at the caliper if it is just getting stiff, when I had rear calipers go the handbrake went floppy, unless the cable actually breaks I can't see really needing to replace one, in any case if it did snap and the caliper was still binding it would def be the caliper.

A temporary handbrake cable freeze should be possible to free off pretty easily, the end rubber boot on the handbrake cable splits and a little water could get in there I guess, but I can't see it binding the brakes on for long.

 

No idea mate - was getting dark and didn't fancy fecking around on the floor to have a look at it :( I know the mechanism on my callipers has been knackered for a while as I get a terrible metallic binding noise when putting the brakes on and reversing.. but everyone else seems pretty convinced its the cables! Not sure what to do now!! :)

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