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jimpy66

How to fix the rattles and squeaks

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Ok, you can't, but since I connected my ipod to the Alpine head unit and amp that came with the car, I hear no squeaks anymore... pure bliss.

 

Seriously though, this is my first Corrado- I just wanted to have one for a while, but I have to say that it's not the car I thought it was. What I expected was german build quality, fabulous handling and better than average power delivery. What I got was on-the-whole mediocre build quality- seriously, the Corrado brochure actually boasts of its "precise....narrow panel gaps"- sadly this isn't quite the case. The handling is good, but not really much better in standard form than most other hatches of the time until you really push it to the limit where the above average chassis does shine. The overall design, when you look below the surface, shows real budget constraints in the raiding of parts bins to put it all together. To be fair, it's hard not to compare with current cars, although this is entirely unfair fifteen-twenty years later.

 

But, before you all jump up and down on my head..... what I didn't expect was- one of the best sounding engines below a V8 you can get, a real feeling of every drive being an event (it does feel that bit special), a great car to tinker with- it's easy to work on and the support available on the forum is just tremendous.

 

I've had this VR only a couple months and I'll probably sell in the summer once I've finished tidying up the loose ends and enjoyed it some. It's a car I know I'll always remember as one of the best I've had- it's just great fun to drive despite the little grumbles above.

 

Sadly, the slump in values and general decline of older/neglected ones means that another five years will wipe out a vast number of them. I'll certainly sell mine in better condition than I got it so that the next person will have the chance to do the same. The suggestion of Top Gear that this will be a classic is surely right, but will become harder to keep numbers of them on the go.

 

And the rattles and squeaks....they're designed in :bonk:

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Oh- and neighbour says its 'a chav car', work guys want to buy it off me and boss says 'it's knight rider'......you win some, lose some:joker2:

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I must say, I really don't agree with the sentiment about handling in standard form. I put mine back to standard ride height ( still with Koni T/A's tho) and really love the handling.

 

On very slow twisty bits, it's a bit nose heavy, but take it up the fast roads beyond Loch Lomond and the thing is amazing. I have driven many cars or all sorts, and this is the best all rounder. Every driven a Civic Type-R? Handling is panties, esp at high speed!

 

I always remember driving a friends 911 Turbo, wickedly fast and, by all accounts, amazing handling. However, when I got back in the Corrado, I felt it was much easier to drive and take to it's limit and felt significantly more planted. Porsche was so twitchy over anything but smooth roads.

 

Handling at the limit is what matters - I reckon I'm much safer on the roads in the Rado because it's so forgiving of misjudged corners or speed. I remember once having to take evasive action when someone pulled out on me and to this day never workout out how I never went into a spin!

 

Anyway, just thought i'd defend the bit I feel passionately about, even tho you weren't attacking :)

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I'd say that the build quality is good when you consider the age of the cars... and it's allot better than some cheep modern cars.

 

But saying that, there are things about the car that could be improved, but as for the squeaks that's just the trim edging strips wearing down.... just get some foam replacement and bingo! no more Squeaks

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I think the build quality of everything outside the cabin is very good. The plastics within the interior are simply awful though, I've never heard another car creak, groan and rattle like a corrado. Its a full time job keeping up with fixing the rattles.

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I think the build quality of everything outside the cabin is very good. The plastics within the interior are simply awful though, I've never heard another car creak, groan and rattle like a corrado. Its a full time job keeping up with fixing the rattles.

It's the same as any mk2 golf or polo... just tighten the screws up

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Given enough time, all cars develop rattles and creaks. Consider how many screws and brackets keep 100s of interior parts together, it only takes a few of them to loosen off or a dodgy alarm fitter to not put some back and what do you get? A bunch enthusiasts whining about a 16 year old car rattling and squeaking :)

 

VW's direct rivals from the same era are just as bad, if not worse. Remember the Escort MK5's famously warping, then cracking, dashboards? And the pitiful overall quality? How many XR3is and RS Turbos do you see on the roads these days? And Pug 205s? Show me even a MK3 Golf the same age and mileage as a Corrado that isn't rotting from the inside out and underneath. Our 2006 Polo rattles and I've been in 1 yr old MK5 Golfs that rattle. And so on.... :)

 

So it may not be a Bentley inside, but the Corrado is definitely standing the test of time imo.

 

The rattles etc are a peice of p1ss to remove. You just need to know where to focus your attention with the padding material. I remember my 91 325i Tourer being a right rattly old heap when I got it, but a roll of self adhesive felt and a day later, it was like driving a new car (not mechanically, but old BMWs are a seperate story!). Did the same to my C some years ago and it always gets comments about how quite and rattle free it is.

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The rattles etc are a peice of p1ss to remove. You just need to know where to focus your attention with the padding material.

 

Thats the hardest part, knowing what bit of trim is the one rattling squeaking.

 

Got a terrible squeak coming from what i think is the passenger side rear speaker trim. Only squeaks over bumps - doesnt help when the trims been removed to fit new suspension, or dismantling the dash to fix a bowden cable, or as Kev says an alarm fitter having a go at the dash.

 

But i agree that overall the Corrado is pretty solid inside, considering its age. You'll get it with every car regardless.

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I solved one major rattle by removing the spare bulbs that were rolling around inside the spare wheel and another by removing the stack of CDs from the glove box. Another annoyance was the groaning from the steering column. Adjust it down a little and the groan disappeared!

 

I love my VR6 and wish I had bought one sooner!

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One thing which reduced rattles immensely was adjust the boot catch pin down a mm or so - holds the boot down a bit tighter and really reduces rattles from all the contained machanism :)

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A really effective tweak is to undo the rubber bumpstop things on the tailgate a bit, they stop the tailgate rattling (and everything within it). Night and day difference if you have rattles coming from the rear......

I suppose we do forget these cars are 15 to 20 years old sometimes.

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Thats the hardest part, knowing what bit of trim is the one rattling squeaking.

 

Got a terrible squeak coming from what i think is the passenger side rear speaker trim. Only squeaks over bumps - doesnt help when the trims been removed to fit new suspension, or dismantling the dash to fix a bowden cable, or as Kev says an alarm fitter having a go at the dash.

 

I hate this phrase as it's a corporate one I hear frequently, but it's 'a process of elimination' I'm afraid :)

 

There are tell tale signs usually. Take off the trim you suspect is rattling / squeaking and look for tell tale rubbing marks. Remember it's a hatchback, which is a body design very prone to flexing. A rear strut brace can help restore some structural integrity back there.

 

Anyway, VW did actually go to great lengths to reduce rattles and squeaks. You can see self adhesive foam and felt strips everywhere. There's one running the whole length of the parcel shelf support in fact, to stop abrasion noises on the rear 1/4 trims. Is that still there on yours? Even the metal clips that hold interior panels to the bodywork, sit in holes trimmed with padding of some sort. When these cars left the factory, I bet they were super quiet.

 

Even the wiring looms have foam tubing to protect against chaffing and banging on the dash making noises. I've not seen this kind of attention to detail in noise reduction before. Nowadays the panels are just just made to finer tolerances and the looms are wrapped in (far cheaper) padded tapes.

 

No, I still maintain these cars are noisy internally through been f'cked around with by previous owners / alarm fitters etc. How many of you still have the screw in the dashboard to the left of the fusebox cover that attaches the dash to a bracket? And the screws that hold the shelf to the fusebox mount and kick well? Those screws missing makes an unbelievable racket from the dash over bumps etc.

 

It really is just a case of going over everything and checking for missing screws, clips etc and if that doesn't work, just get 3 dozen cans of no more gaps and fill the f'cker up :)

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No offense but I think you've probably not bought the best example... the handling as completly standard should be sublime, I still absolutly love it and very confident to drive, so much better than any MK2 Golf I'd had and still compares well to new cars...

 

Old or worn Bushes / shocks / bearings / ball joints etc is most likely the cause.

 

Squeeks and rattles - This is mostly to do with vibration over the years and the current state of UK roads does not help but usually dash rattles are attributed to bad sterea / alarm installs and botched heater matrix / winscreen changes.

 

My TDI conversion rattled all over the place when I got it and is better now but not great - The 'original' G60 I have is almost silent but all the original clips are in place, screws still have the mastic round them and the felt used in the factory - for a 20 year old car it's fantastic.

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Does anyone know if the interior door release levers are available new, my latest rattle comes from one of those. The rod that actuates the door lock is a loose fit within the plastic release mechanism, meaning the release lever has 5 to 10 mm flapping potential.

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Does anyone know if the interior door release levers are available new, my latest rattle comes from one of those. The rod that actuates the door lock is a loose fit within the plastic release mechanism, meaning the release lever has 5 to 10 mm flapping potential.

 

I'd guess the foam pad inside the door is missing (should be stuck to the innter door skin behind the rod) - this pushes on the rod slightly so may take up the slack you're describing.

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/\ Yep, another example of their noise supressing measures. They can still rattle with that foam peice present though. I just fitted a much thicker peice of foam instead, which put more tension on the rod.

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A really effective tweak is to undo the rubber bumpstop things on the tailgate a bit, they stop the tailgate rattling (and everything within it). Night and day difference if you have rattles coming from the rear......

I suppose we do forget these cars are 15 to 20 years old sometimes.

 

Top tip - i was plagued by a 'rumble' from the back of the car on uneven surfaces, half turn anticlockwise of the bumpstops solved this. And i had tried felt in places i didnt even know existed on the Corrado!

 

Andy? Check if the rod connecting to the inner pull handle is slack - this is a hugely annoying rattle too. Best bet here is to get some thick thread and wrap it around the loop at the end and then fit it back into the handle. As Haywire has also said, use a thick piece of foam in the middle. Give the door a few thumps before refitting the cards to identify any other sources.

Edited by fla

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Top tip - i was plagued by a 'rumble' from the back of the car on uneven surfaces, half turn anticlockwise of the bumpstops solved this. And i had tried felt in places i didnt even know existed on the Corrado!

 

Andy? Check if the rod connecting to the inner pull handle is slack - this is a hugely annoying rattle too. Best bet here is to get some thick thread and wrap it around the loop at the end and then fit it back into the handle. As Haywire has also said, use a thick piece of foam in the middle. Give the door a few thumps before refitting the cards to identify any other sources.

 

I knew this one would come up! I fitted a felt pad too, sorted it.

 

Does anyone know a method to make the inner handle work better i.e. not release at full 'pull'? I doubt the metal rod has expanded and it's pretty rigid so can't bend it easily. I can't find anything to adjust or tighten - Has anyone ever replaced this with something durable to make the release nicer? I did consider wire, but that would be a really bodgy fix!

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Does anyone know if the interior door release levers are available new, my latest rattle comes from one of those. The rod that actuates the door lock is a loose fit within the plastic release mechanism, meaning the release lever has 5 to 10 mm flapping potential.

 

Get a pair of chrome finished steel levers, not expensive and vastly improve the look of the door cards.

 

http://www.veedubmachine.co.uk/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=101_102&products_id=254

 

Also the anti rattle strip from the same place: http://www.veedubmachine.co.uk/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=101_102&products_id=610

 

but the same thing available on eBay for a fraction of the cost. I've put metres of the stuff all over my VR6 where plastic meets plastic and have virtually eliminated all squeaking and groaning.

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Does anyone know a method to make the inner handle work better i.e. not release at full 'pull'? I doubt the metal rod has expanded and it's pretty rigid so can't bend it easily. I can't find anything to adjust or tighten - Has anyone ever replaced this with something durable to make the release nicer? I did consider wire, but that would be a really bodgy fix!

 

I've found on mine that the unlatching feel depends on how far in the striker pin is set. In other words, if the striker pin is more inboard, meaning the door needs a good slam to close, the unlatching feel from the interior handle is more positive / releases sooner. If the door only needs a light push to close, the unlatching is more vague. If there is an adjustment for this, it will be at the latch end. I haven't been in my doors for a while, so I can't remember off hand.

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/\ Yep, another example of their noise supressing measures. They can still rattle with that foam peice present though. I just fitted a much thicker peice of foam instead, which put more tension on the rod.

 

I'll try that, I have got the original foam in there. Its just not enough. I assumed that the hole in the plastic bit had become elongated, therefore loose. My door has been very stiff to open until recently when I had it all apart to clean / grease everything. Its lush now!

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last night I bent my rod slightly and that stopped all the rattling :)

simply bend the rod very slightly towards the door skin where it touches the anti-rattle pad, the problem is, when the rod isn't under tension (i.e. door shut) the curved hook end in the back of the door pull handle rattles a bit, a very slight bend in the rod makes the rod always touch the pad (a bit tighter than normal) and so is never loose enough to rattle.

All feel is as kev says, it's the striker pin on the B pillar, the rod makes no difference and needs to be a tiny bit slack when shut or the handle would lift slightly.

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The biggest reason for rattles on a Corrado is the dreaded alarm 'fitter'.

 

Most of the upper trim clips are one use only items and the good old alarm chimp won't replace them. My G60 was terrible when I bought it for squeaks and rattles but some self adhesive felt sheets, some replacment clips and a couple of weekends saw all the annoying squeaks eliminated. Frankly for a car that was 17 years old when I bought it I am not suprised the existing felt had worn out.

 

The other factor is your choice of wheels, 17s do not make a nice handling or riding Corrado (in my opinion anyway :)), they are designed for 15" wheels on a max width of 205, you can't expect a brilliant ride and good handling on massive rims with a tiny sidewall - the same can be said for coilovers.

 

As for a C vs more modern stuff, 190bhp used to be a big number, it's far closer to the norm now with many hot hatches putting out a lot more than that it's only to be expected. Yes it's a parts bin raid but a well executed one, they still look good and for something designed in the mid 1980s that's quite an achievement.

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