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HF TURBO

93/K corrado vr6 wont fire NO Spark

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hi guys, i'm new to the forum and i'm looking to pick your brains.

 

i have corrado vr6 on a 93 k it's been stood for some time and now wont start up.

 

i'm sure there is fuel but i have no spark!! i have swapped a crank sensor and coil pack from a golf vr6 (not sure if they are interchangeable or not) but i'm sure you'll correct me if i'm wrong.

 

there's a new battery, i've checked all the fuses i can see. it's fitted with an alarm which seems to be functioning correctly as it allows me to crank the engine over.

 

Please help i'm now struggling without a car and i need this on the road asap.

 

regards

 

D

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check your ecu relay no 109. Its about £12 from the dealer. Bridge the connections on the fuseboard if need be to rule it out.

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will check that out mate, thanks, which connections need to be bridged?

 

i've switched relay 109 from the golf vr6 and is still the same. however relay 167 has now started clicking... any ideas?

 

... changed the 167 relay from the golf and now the clicking from the relay has stopped but still not starting.

Edited by HF TURBO

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have you checked power to the coil pack? bently has a guide on how to check.

 

another possibility ...ignition switch.

 

how long have you let the car sit with a fresh battery?

 

93/k would mean dizzy as well, so hall sender fault, integral to the dizzy unit unfortunately.

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battery's probably been in a week or so mate

 

i dont think it's the ignition switch as it allows me to turn the engine over.

 

defo fitted with a coil pack mate, don't think it'll have a dizzy aswell as a pack.

 

i've been searching for days on google and the only other thing i could think it could be is the ecu, however if the ecu was gone, i would have thought it would mean no fuel as well as no spark.

 

could it be something as simple as an earth problem??

 

whilst the car was sitting the only thing i have changed is the thermostat housing, stat and seals, rear brakes, bearings etc which should have nothing to do with the spark either.

 

i'm a bit stumped on what to do/try next or should i just call an auto electrician out

 

i'll have a search for the guide. cheers.

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sorry, automatically presumed you meant the HT coil not coilpack, as thats more likely to be at fault than the coil packs which generally split and visibly arc. have you tested power to the coil?

 

someone correct me if i'm wrong, but i thought the ignition/ ecu and starter circuits were separate, so it will still crank.

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i'm just search for the how to, to check for power to the coilpack etc.

 

hmm if that's the case with the ignition switch then it could be a possibility. hopefully someone can elaborate on this for us.

 

at first i thought it could be the coil pack but then i swapped it for my mates knowing that his is running so that can be ruled out. once i know wether there is earth or power to the pack, might give us a better chance

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When I refitted my engine, it wouldn't fire. Turned out the multi plug wasn't quite on right, it needed twisted a bit more to fully locate the pins. Fired up immediately after that. Maybe it's been dislodged when doing some of the other bits? Worth a check anyway. The brown lines should match up

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I've got this problem too but it's intermittent. I've changed the crank sensor without success and now it's down to a wiring and/or dirty plug connection somewhere. Try cleaning the connections at the ECU, the large round plug at the back of the head right hand side and also the connection to the crank sensor. This is what I'm doing.

 

Hope this helps.

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done all those mate still no joy... i think i'm swaying towards the alarm/ immobilizer if not then possibly ecu.

 

can anyone post the link as to how i can check the feed to the coilpack?

 

cheers

 

D

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still no luck with this atm. does anyone know where the dianostic socket is if it has one fitted? if it does will this work: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/VW-VAG-Diagnostic-Fault-Code-Reader-CAN-OBD2-/160639207717?pt=UK_Diagnostic_Tools_Equipment&hash=item2566d7c925

 

also is there a fuel cut off switch fitted to these, if so does anyone know where that is.

 

cheers

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For your model year it will be an OBD1 ECU, so you will need a 2x2 adapter to connect up the code reader.

 

The socket is found beneath the plastic gearstick surround - you can gently prise it off with a blade or screwdriver.

Edited by nrc

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This may be along shot for you but may be worth trying. Had an intermittent fault with starting (95 VR6). Car would fire up but die instantly, almost as if the fuel was being cut off (eg immobiliser style). After trying a number of things, inc changing battery - (MFA occassionally rest back to zero), OBD (2) indicated engine being blocked by immobiliser.

 

After searching the forum for a host of similar probs, found a post that recommended spraying WD40 (or in my case electrical cleaner fluid) on the 3 pin connection plug which leads from the steering column coil (around the ignition barrel) to the immobiliser box under the dash (below headlight switch area). After spraying and reconnecting, worked instantly. Whether it was a coincidence or simply a great find and post, will find out over the coming days, as it was only completed this afternoon.

 

Recall that this was a known fault for Cs dating Oct'94 to June '95 plus all key immobilised VWs, 95-97 though.

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thanks for the help guys, the car has no transponder system.

 

managed to find an auto electrician who checked wires and relays and feed to coil pack etc he seems to think the alarm/immo is ok and seems to be functioning correctly. he says the wires from the ecu are good, which is leading him to think the ecu is shot.

 

the ecu fitted in the car is 021906258 AG.

 

can any corrado ecu be fitted? or do all the ecu numbers and AG need to match?

 

if they do does anyone have one that's up for grabs?

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Hi guys been a while, but i never mangaged to get my vr running. now the weathers finally picking up i thought i'd give it another go.

 

Right, Since i first started the thread, i've had the ecu tested which came back ok. i've taken the aftermarket alarm/ immobilser out and i still have no spark.

 

does anyone have any idea's as to what could be up with it?

 

cheers

 

D

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Had the same issues as you, and mines now running, was alarm immobiliser in my case. The ticklist of stuck to check, which you've done most of I think;

 

Two relays 109 and 67

ignition switch, will crank fine still if broken, but will not power the ecu to deliver spark

crank position sensor

coil

dizzy or coil pack

leads

alarm imobiliser

ecu

 

After that lot you're into the fuse box and wiring.

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thanks for your reply mate, i'll work my way through your list and report back,

 

i don't think its the coil pack or crank sensor as these were changed from a running car so i know these work. alarm/immob as been completely removed, relays changed from running motor. ecu has been tested and returned ok.

 

i'm gonna gamble on the ignition switch and order one tomorrow

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If you've changed the stat and thermostat housing then you might have unplugged the crank sensor and knock sensor plugs which are down near the starter motor area behind the radiator.

 

Check that you haven't inadvertently plugged them back in to the wrong connectors, it is quite easy to accidentally plug the crank sensor into the knock sensor plug and vice versa. This would lead to the problem that you describe.

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thanks for your reply mate, i'm pretty sure i didn't unplug the two sensors at one time but i will try swapping them over.

 

had a friend check it over with more electrical knowledge than me and he says theres no power/pulse going to the coil pack. i've changed the ignition switch and still nothing.

 

next i think i'm going to try an engine knock sensor and then an ecu if i can find one.

 

any thoughts guys?

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ordered a knock sensor today from ecp as they were the cheapest. dealers wanted £152! also i tried ordering ecu relay and a x relay from vw but they no longer make these.

 

anyone know where i can get some from?

 

cheers

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x relay?

 

i think you need to get an auto electrician to do proper wiring trace to ascertain why you're not getting power/ signal to the coil - you've pretty much changed everything that usually causes this!

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