Gearbox failure?

[Storm Warning 0]

I've had a noisey 1st gear whine for sometime (probably 20,000 miles) and 2nd gear had a slight hint too (after that, road noise to great to hear so don't know) Yesterday, something let go and during idle there is a knocking sound, engaging 1st makes that noise very loud, pressing clutch or engaging reverse it stops alltogether. I managed to get home (40miles) without issue in higher gears, though it sound like a distant box of gravel.

 

I'm fairly sure this is the box and not the clutch (thats only 50k old). How much do you think the swap should cost Labour wise? looking of options of a buying a used box (£40-£150) or a recon box (£500) anyone got a box to sell?

 

Thanks

[davidwort 0]

If you can engage and drive in other gears then it's not going to be the clutch, as for the labour cost for swapping I'd guess you're not going to get much change out of £150-£200, if labour is around the £50/hr mark.

A recon box with a warranty, particularly if all the 1st and second gear parts have been replaced would be nice, not sure how thorough it would have been rebuilt for £500 quid though, individual parts for these boxes are pretty expensive.

If you're lucky you might find a good mk3 vr box on reasonable miles.

[Storm Warning 0]

Thanks, I was thinking about gearboxman, I understand he had a good rep in VW circles. He sells recon boxes for £495. Trouble is with 2nd hand boxes, particular as breakers, some seem to be quite expensive and hard to get any assurance of mileage. Might make some more calls.

[fla 9]

the VR boxes are usually quite strong and the weak links are more related to the forks, selector tower, but the gears and bearings per se are failry robust. If you had the time, it would be worth taking the gearbox off and inspecting it thoroughly. If you look on CorradoVR6 Turbo's thread (James) he has stripped down his box which has roughly 150k miles and wear is next to minimal.

[davidwort 0]

the VR boxes are usually quite strong and the weak links are more related to the forks,

 

that reminds me, I think it was on toads Vr box that the tips of the selector forks partially broke off, I guess it's hard driving/changes from standing starts that does that???

[Storm Warning 0]

Thanks for feedback, will go and check out that thread now. I might have a slightly bigger window to do the work now so at least it can be looked at before committing to a recon box. It does sound like there is 1st gear teeth missing though.

[Wullie 1]

You may find this an interesting bit of reading. http://www.corrado-club.ca/forum/viewtopic.php?t=9062

[4eyes2wheels 0]

My VR made a noise in first gear which was caused by this

 

[ATTACH=CONFIG]53693[/ATTACH]

 

Reverse idler gear selector spring was broken and allowing the gear to 'rattle' against the main shaft gear.

 

The gear box was removed by DG and they did chains, clutch etc etc whilst the bloke next door rebuit the gearbox. Good value for the labour getting two big jobs done at the same time. But I understand it's a good 2 to 3 hours in and out to get to it.

[Storm Warning 0]

Were there any other symptons? Mine was making a whining noise for a long tim before. Now, its quiet in reverse or clutch pressed. Very noisy in 1st, getting quieter in higher gears.

 

I guess I need to get it out and look.

Edited February 28, 2012 by Storm Warning

[4eyes2wheels 0]

It was hard to notice from inside the car but my parents told me a couple of times that there was a "rattling" noisy when I pulled away. Then Dave at DG Autotech said he heard a nasty noisy and that was it really.

[Storm Warning 0]

Car went away this morning, a while into its drive it become undriveable so it was towed. The box is being removed at the moment but I'm at a loss as to what to do. The local places for gearbox repairs made lots of noises and sucking through teeth by the sounds of it. So anything from 400-600+vat to be reconditionioned and doesn't include new drive gears if damaged. The pover the phone diagnostics believe its hard to see that it hasn't damaged teeth and was probably started with a bearing failure. So, this bill will go up. The other option is a place in wolverhampton who advertise on eBay. Refurb box for about 500. new bearings, seals, and 2nd/3rd syncros changed. Gears checked they are undamaged. 6month warranty. This way at least I know the cost, but no absolute assurance its not got imperfect gears. That said I could pay over £1000 and still have it fail one day out of warranty.

 

Anybody any veiws? or know Dunstall Park Garage in Wolverhampton? Off to place a wanted ad!

[Dox 23]

I've got a couple of VAG V5 gearboxes, one a 10V, the other a 20V. MK4 derived cars have DMF which offer some protection to the gearboxes. Both from my own cars that I've personally driven, no issues at all, both have done 140Kish miles. I have starters and lever and cable assys too if needed.

 

£100 for the 10V (head gasket failure), £150 for the 20V (stretched chains)

[Storm Warning 0]

What's the deal with fitting these boxes to a VR? and what are the differences- final drive/ratios anything else.

[Dox 23]

What's the deal with fitting these boxes to a VR? and what are the differences- final drive/ratios anything else.

 

 

I've no idea TBH, there's a lad on CGTi that wants the 20V box for his car, I've provisionally accepted his offer tonight, he's removing his VR gearbox and selling it to fund the V5 box which he says its close ratio

[Storm Warning 0]

Could you point me in the direction of this guy who might have a vr box ? :-)

[Dox 23]

Could you point me in the direction of this guy who might have a vr box ? :-)

 

I've PMd him a link to this thread

[Dox 23]

He's not a member here, he's asked me to pass on his number, check your PMs

[davidwort 0]

mk4's run big rolling circumference wheels/tyres, I'd make sure you know the ratios and FD first (that's why a mk4 box would appear 'close ratio', actually just short ratio.)

do they also come with larger driveshaft flanges on them?

if you get the gearbox codes, ETKA should have all the ratios to work out how they would compare to a VR6 box.

 

(2001 model year) these boxes use the 108mm flanges, the others use 100mm

ECW, DZL, EBS, EBN, ENJ, FBX, EHB, EGY, EVS

Edited March 2, 2012 by davidwort

[Storm Warning 0]

I've picked up a reconditioned box, its had new syncro rings, seals and bearings. All gears said to be in good condition.

 

Seems the noise covered up a number of other issues, front wheel bearings and a CV joint. Those combined with returning to summer tyres (conti sport 3s) should make it feel very different on its return, not to mentioned lighter... or is that just my wallet.

[captainredeye 0]

My VR made a noise in first gear which was caused by this

 

[ATTACH=CONFIG]53693[/ATTACH]

 

Reverse idler gear selector spring was broken and allowing the gear to 'rattle' against the main shaft gear.

 

The gear box was removed by DG and they did chains, clutch etc etc whilst the bloke next door rebuit the gearbox. Good value for the labour getting two big jobs done at the same time. But I understand it's a good 2 to 3 hours in and out to get to it.

 

Have a rattle in 1st gear can this spring be replaced with out removing the gear box?