Ron's Blackberry VR6 - A11 VRX - Getting her back on the road

[sexybourbon 0]

Looking good there mate keep on it your nearly done

[Kevin Bacon 5]

Looks like someone has used the end of a Tin can, formed it into shape and then stuck it in the hole with filler and painted over it up to the sill line with a rattle can.

 

If the previous owner who did this is on here (most of its owners were club members)

 

.......Thanks for that!

 

 

Jesus! Bodgery taken to a whole new level!

[Hofmiester 10]

Yeah, they didn't even clean up the rust hole, literally just epoxied the can lid into the hole, filled and painted. Can't be that old as when I bought it it was smooth but rust bubbled up within a month or so.

 

This then gave me the kick to take all the arch liners off and have a good look underneath and at the petrol cap. All good there and it looks like the wing with the rust is a replacement as it has no factory sealant on the back, unlike the other side.

 

Body shop looks excellent, lots of classic cars etc (recommended by another member off here) so confident they'll sort it.

 

Ron

Edited August 27, 2013 by Hofmiester

[clumpy1 11]

this has made an intresting read in my lunch break at work, looking forward to seeing finished car

This is a very tidy car I seen it at Stanford Ron got his mitt's on it at the right time otherwise it may have fallen by the wayside now with what he has done it's looking like it's on it's way back to the top. Ron mine has only got 252bhp but it is more than capable stick with stage one you know it make's sense. :lcop::)

[Hofmiester 10]

Haha cheers James! Yeah the old girl was just on the cusp of falling through the cracks. Basically it had an owner from 2004 to 2011 that spent a fortune but then it was run on a budget until I bought it.

 

Lets see what stage 1 is like first, power delivery will be different to yours as will have less torque and the power is all up top.

 

At least I have the option to ramp up the boost later but saying that, I'm a big OEM+ fan and so the st1 V9 charger may only deliver 50-60bhp more, but is supposed to drive like stock and without modifying the engine.

[clumpy1 11]

Haha cheers James! Yeah the old girl was just on the cusp of falling through the cracks. Basically it had an owner from 2004 to 2011 that spent a fortune but then it was run on a budget until I bought it.

 

Lets see what stage 1 is like first, power delivery will be different to yours as will have less torque and the power is all up top.

 

At least I have the option to ramp up the boost later but saying that, I'm a big OEM+ fan and so the st1 V9 charger may only deliver 50-60bhp more, but is supposed to drive like stock and without modifying the engine.

Mine is pretty much the same mate the longer you hold onto a gear the more manic it get's. Roll on next year's show season

[Hofmiester 10]

It Lives!

 

Running bloody sweet.... I was expecting more teething issues with it being partially DIY kit. Michael at MB motorsport in Gateshead had been a legend. He ended up making a load of bits, adapting bits and it all looks super neat.

 

 

 

 

I also read on the Vortex about all the idling issues and stalling when coming up to the lights. Coffee grinding noises at idles etc which had me a little concerned.

 

So far all seems good, all you can get is a whistling/wine sound which is cool. Idle is rock steady (Vince at Stealth provided the map) and its not stalled at the lights yet ;)

 

Power delivery is not as crazy as i was maybe thinking it would be. Basically just like a standard car but when you get to 4k rpm it starts to feel like there is more poke coming in.....by 5k it is going really well and the whistle really pipes up.....by 6.5k it is really in yer face.

 

Coming from turbos, it's totally different. Feels like a big NA car with head work, cams etc

Edited August 29, 2013 by Hofmiester

[clumpy1 11]

YYYYesssss I knew from what we spoke about at national day this would be a no issue build Ron (sound's alot like mine) roll on next year and i response to your never stalling at light's mate you done it the proper way not the cheapskate way :salute: like some other's like to do.

Nice one pal :thumbleft:

[Hofmiester 10]

Cheers matey, really appreciate it.

 

We've relocated the MAF and filter to the passenger side and that was a good move. If I hadn't read Rams and Craig's threads, I would have missed that trick.

 

Vid at idle

 

[clumpy1 11]

"Nowt wrong wi that lad" quality mate as i said before i wasn't expecting the usual "can someone please help with this" :awesome: plus ram's/craig they never done it the cheapskate way either which is why they both have car's that work correctly :salute:

[Hofmiester 10]

Catch can arrived this morning, also expecting a delivery of some new rims. Going for RH cups for a bit of a change, still love the Monty IIs though.

 

Will hopefully look a bit like this but a touch lower and no nasty body kit

 

[ATTACH=CONFIG]75509[/ATTACH]

[n3p 3]

Congrats, although I give it 2 months before you decide to go stage 2 :D

[Hofmiester 10]

Congrats, although I give it 2 months before you decide to go stage 2 :D

 

Me too mate, needs more boost already :) I'm just so pleased that it worked at the moment. I took a real gamble buying a random charger without any of the other bits.....crazy fool

 

RH cups arrived today, will be refurbed next week. Just wondering what colour. Silver or maybe Anthracite? would Anthracite work on a Blackberry?

[clumpy1 11]

Me too mate, needs more boost already :) I'm just so pleased that it worked at the moment. I took a real gamble buying a random charger without any of the other bits.....crazy fool

 

RH cups arrived today, will be refurbed next week. Just wondering what colour. Silver or maybe Anthracite? would Anthracite work on a Blackberry?

What size are the rh's Ron? Anthracite with some glitter in it :norty: You no crazy fool mate that is obvious :D

[Hofmiester 10]

Well so much for no problems, finally T'd in my boost gauge. Something is not quite right.

 

My vac at idle is only 16 and I think it should be about 22, plus boost peaks at 3 psi which maybe explains the performance. Anyone know what the correct vac reading should be?

 

Also, I'm running the DV off the brake booster line. One of the two nipples on the one way valve. The gauge is T'd into my DV line. Anyone know if that is an ok setup?

 

Cheers

 

Ron

[GrahamU 5]

Last night I got the carbon canister relocated, MAF wiring extended (properly soldered, no crappy bullet clips

 

 

Soldering isn't the best way to connect wires, the solder changes a multicore wire into a single core. At the point where the soldered wires end becomes a weak point which isn't good in a high vibration, high temperature area.

 

Crimps are always better if done properly using good quality crimps and a decent crimp tool

 

(I don't mean this to sound like a lecture, just advice)

[seanl82 23]

A crimp is just like a single core wire though really. Also as its been crimped each end it will have three weak points as opposed to the one on a solder joint. Soldering, then using a strongback is the safest option. In all honesty, either is sufficient in most cases and pretty unlikely even with engine vibration to work loose or break due to fatigue. Only if its on a flexible joint like inside a door boot that will have regular movement would it be likely to be an issue.

[GrahamU 5]

I used to think that but like I said, It wasn't a lecture just advice

 

However, I do work for a company who's primary business is building wire harnesses for all levels of motorsport including F1 and are now also moving into aero so I do have good knowledge on the subject. ;)

[seanl82 23]

I'm just offering up what I know mate, not trying to argue. :thumbleft:

 

I'm a weapons technician, and I have rebuilt circuits for marine and aerospace usage. In aerospace it wouldn't be contemplated. A new harness would be used. All components are bent over and glued down, and all solder joints are triple checked. We even have dispensation to use 60:40 lead content solder as nowadays its not available to the public due to toxic fumes. Everything must be of the highest standard BAR NONE due to gravitation forces that are put through them.

 

I'm not just regurgitating information I've read or heard, I've actually worked on these systems. :geek:

[Hofmiester 10]

Well I used to be an electrician/electronics engineering apprentice. Working in a busy factory, and this is the way I was taught.

 

It looks tidy, works fine!

[Hofmiester 10]

So having looked over everything I thought that 90 degree twist on the belt was more than it should be, and in cranked it up ;)

 

Wow, that made a difference, the car is savagely fast, especially at this level

[seanl82 23]

Good news! You should JUST be able to get it to 90 degrees with thumb and fore finger for correct tension. This sounds like a really good and simple sutup for stage 1. Did you have an engine health check before deciding to do it, or has the lump had any work in the past? Just asking as I'm curious for mine now!

[Hofmiester 10]

I always thought the correct tension was 45 degree of twist? Don't want to crank it too much as bugger the bearings. Seems to be running really well though, and currently will just twist to 90 degs at a push. Going to T the boost gauge and DV off the throttle body as I binned the carbon canister.

Edited September 3, 2013 by Hofmiester

[Hofmiester 10]

By the way, does your charger almost touch the bonnet? It is very close on mine!

[Hofmiester 10]

Did you have an engine health check before deciding to do it, or has the lump had any work in the past? Just asking as I'm curious for mine now!

 

My car had a partial engine rebuild in at 127k (now on 141k) bottom end is all good and the car doesn't use any oil. Head was replaced for a new one (badly pitted) and the chains and guides were done at the same time at Stealth. So engine should be all good, certainly runs very well.