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borachris

My final attempt to make a working car! 3.2 24v Rado

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So after a couple of failed projects, a mk2 golf then a 16v corrado, mainly due to working long hours and having a wife and 3 kids that constantly demand attention, I just didn't have time to do what I wanted, I very nearly chucked in the towel and gave up with modding cars!

 

Until I bought this

 

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It had been stood for almost a year due to a bit of a running problem that the previous owner hadn't been able to sort out, he was losing the use of his garage and had to get rid of it quick as he already had a G60 Corrado he was in the process of fixing up. Went to have a look at it with a mate who knew more about VR's than me and apart from a lumpy idle all seemed ok!

 

I was unsure about the colour as its had a respray in a purple/blue at some point but its pretty solid so decided to just get it!

 

Drove it home on the spacesaver and got a bit carried away hitting speeds you probably shouldn't do with a 4inch wide front tyre!

 

Changed the blue temp sensor which improved the idle a little.

 

Pic from a local meet(not sure who took it)

 

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Another one with the old rado, courtesy of Kurt

 

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His, hers and his shot haha

 

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The ride on the 17" TT alloys was pretty dire to say the least, felt every bump and the car just felt like it was dragging a trailer around with it, not to mention the constant rubbing, I don't like to have a car I can't push a bit when the opportunity arises but this was terrible on corners so the 17's had to go!

 

Got some monty 2's for a good price with tyres which I sold to my mates dad for his Golf, and got some cheap part worn hankooks off ebay, with 5mm+ tread, which are actually pretty good tbh

 

I quite like them and it handles so much better than it did!

 

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I've got some 25mm spacers for the rear and 15's for the front, not fitted them yet as the rear beam needs moving, it sits a good 10mm over to the passenger side at the moment!

 

After not doing much to it for a few months and just enjoying driving it, I had a bit of a major coolant loss, top rad neck decided to snap!

 

Luckily I had a spare from a VR rad I had that was intended for the mk2 project, unluckily the old one wasn't so keen to be removed, the captive nuts had come uncaptive as the plastic surrounding them had cracked,

I didn't know how good the spare rad was so didn't want to risk fitting it for it to **** out coolant everywhere, so instead I just cut the bolts in the hope I could knock the nuts out and rig something up to hold

it all together!

 

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The heat from the cutting must have freed them off because when I put a socket on to turn and snap the heads off the bolts just came out lol

 

I greased up the spare bolts and just fitted them carefully into the semi captive nuts, they held up better than I was expecting!

Edited by borachris

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Fast forward a couple of months and disaster struck, After driving for less than 5 mins I noticed a dent in the bonnet, an outward dent! The temp gauge had dropped to zero and smoke started to appear from the bay, pulled over and popped the bonnet, no coolant and oil coming from between the head and block on the drivers side, I just got back in and drove it home firing on a couple of cylinders less than it should :(

 

Its been sat there for a couple of months until last weekend when I finally got my finger out and started stripping bits out ready to put a 3.2 24v lump in!

 

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Then this weekend I took the head off, next week i'll be taking the block and box out, along with the main engine bay loom for a few modifications ;)

 

Random pics of the not so healthy looking 12v

 

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Chassis legs don't look to bad, drivers side is filthy because the ccv was venting straight into the bay via a little breather filter

 

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However the front is another story, rad support is pretty shot, looks like its been parked in the sea at some point!

 

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Not too sure what to do with that, either a second hand replacement or get something made to hold the rad in place

 

Rad and slimline fans as the standard ones are too big to fit with the 24valve lump

 

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Gruven rad neck to avoid any future brittle plastic issues!

 

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42 Draft crackle black crack pipe

 

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And a dubpower R32 conversion manifold and decat

 

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Another part left from the mk2 project, not sure if i'm going to use this or one of the coolers off one of the 6 cylinders, need to have a think about it

 

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Thats it for now, will have some more parts arriving soon and the engine should be here within the next 2 weeks!!

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Those new wheels are so much better than the junk you had to start with! The original wheels are just soo heavy! I ended up giving mine away years ago to get rid of them!

 

I like the way this is going!

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Tbh I don't actually mind the TT's, just not on a Corrado lol

 

Its on FK damping adjustable coilovers at the minute but I've got a set of Koni adjustables that will be going for a refurb soon, then i'll be raising it up maybe 10-15mm to get a bit of suspension travel back as it must be sat on the bumpstops now, if its got bump stops fitted lol

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Good work mate , i do like the look of it on the dirst wheels but agree if the rides bad then you did right ditching them

Keep us posted mate goid look with the conversion , let me know when your bushes arrive

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Yeah I couldn't enjoy driving it with the 17's, I'll be looking for something different eventually but handling and power come before looks for me i'm afraid ;)

 

Will do and cheers!

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Fast forward a couple of months and disaster struck, After driving for less than 5 mins I noticed a dent in the bonnet, an outward dent!

 

 

Maybe a dumb question but what caused the dent?

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Maybe a dumb question but what caused the dent?

 

As you look at t from the front, the right hand side corner of the intake manifold!

 

I can only assume it was caused by a combination of really rough running when it started firing on less cylinders than it should and worn engine mounts :/

 

Cracked the paint :(

 

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Well today was the day the engine arrived, the guys from SRS automotive in Barnsley did a great job of removing everything without any damage, they did go a bit overboard and sent the ENTIRE car loom but I won't complain lol

 

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Can't wait for the weekend!

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Exciting times! What're you doing about the loom & immob defeat etc then?

 

Sure is mate :)

 

Taking the easy way out and getting Mark at SWICT to do the looms, immo defeat and remap!

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Montreal IIs for the win mate, I did the same. Ditched the 17" TT comps for Monty IIs which are actually very light and well made (BBS) I think they really suit the raddo.

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Good stuff! There won't be any 12V Corrados left soon :D

 

So Mr Bacon, I take it that you're not a fan of 12v Corrados:?

 

I know a lot of people always seem to have problems with the original 12v, but I can say that I've never had any issues with mine. It's quiet, reliable and pulls strongly. And the sound it makes...not heard many V6's that sound better.

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The 12V is a good DIY engine, easy to work on. I'd be a little afraid of tinkering with an R32 unit myself. Good on you guys who will take that on!

 

Fitting my own SC is about as far as I can go.

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Montreal IIs for the win mate, I did the same. Ditched the 17" TT comps for Monty IIs which are actually very light and well made (BBS) I think they really suit the raddo.

 

Yeah I love the look of the monty 2's, they look bigger than they are if you ask me!

 

Good stuff! There won't be any 12V Corrados left soon :D

 

I don't know about that, not everyone is daft enough to spend more than the car is worth to swap the engine lol

 

So Mr Bacon, I take it that you're not a fan of 12v Corrados:?

 

I know a lot of people always seem to have problems with the original 12v, but I can say that I've never had any issues with mine. It's quiet, reliable and pulls strongly. And the sound it makes...not heard many V6's that sound better.

 

I loved mine until it gave up, in fairness it had done 180k plus and didn't have much in the way of history so who's knows what the poor thing had been through! I gave the 12v to my mate who is letting me use his drive/garage, he has plans to rebuild it although has nothing to put it in at the minute lmao

 

The 12V is a good DIY engine, easy to work on. I'd be a little afraid of tinkering with an R32 unit myself. Good on you guys who will take that on!

 

Fitting my own SC is about as far as I can go.

 

Yeah I agree but at the end of the day an engine is just an engine really, basics are just the same only the 24v has a 'few' more sensors and trickery :p

 

Well done with the SC, I know a lot of people that wouldn't have been confident enough to tackle something like that themselves! I have a desire for FI next year......

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Few more pics and a bit of progress, My mate Ian has kindly let me use his drive and garage as a base, he's also been around to give me a hand with the conversion, big thanks to him :cheers:

 

Me and another mate towed the Rado to Ian's and abandoned it as I had to go to work, Ian stuck it up on ramps to make access a bit easier

 

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We removed the old 12v bottom end and dumped it out of the way in the garage

 

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Sachs VR6 clutch kit

 

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New thermostat housing parts

 

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Fitted the flywheel and clutch kit with new bolts then fitted the VR box onto the 24v engine, we had a good laugh whilst doing it!

 

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We then removed the VR box and fitted the release bearing as well, Ian decided changing gear would be awkward without it, maybe we should concentrate a little bit instead of having so much fun :bonk:

 

Gloved up the CV's to keep the muck out!

 

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Whilst I was laid upside down inside the drivers footwell unbolting the servo and clutch mc Ian fitted the 4mo aux bracket with the 24v alternator and rado PS pump with 4mo pulley

 

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I ended up just pulling the whole fusebox out as its such a tangled mess I couldn't see what needed to come out with the engine side loom

 

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All of the looms ready to be boxed up with the ECU and sent off to Mark at SWICT to work his magic

 

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They were posted out on Wednesday and Mark is hopeful he will have time to sort them out and back to me by the end of next week!!

 

Have another little update to come in a bit just off to have some dinner!

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Bought a few new parts to hopefully tighten up the gear change a little, Polo shifter housing parts.

 

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And a 2nd hand mk4 golf shifter tower

 

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Disassembled the mk4 tower, nothing complicated and all came apart easily

 

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All of the mk4 bits reassembled into the polo housing

 

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I've already fitted the 02J selector to the VR gearbox and swapped the ends on the cables from the ball type to the pins to match the selector, should be ready to go once its all fitted!

 

Also I bought some poly mounts from Jay Renshaw, so i've took the old mounts apart, had to get a replacement for the rear one as the bolt snapped in the top, cheers to fuzz for sorting me out along with a front mount bracket to replace another broken bit off mine lol

 

Rear mount before

 

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Now due to the dubpower manifold a couple of people have suggested cutting down the mount to give more clearance in the tunnel for the manifold, so i've cut 15mm off the top half of the mount

 

Before cutting

 

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My very precision bit of wood for marking the poly, wood is 70mm, mount was 85mm

 

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Pikey method for cutting poly but I had 3 options, steak knife, hacksaw or grinder, as you can see the hacksaw won!

 

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After

 

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As i've cut the upper poly the centre of the mount ideally needed shortening, drilling and re-tapping, with limited tools at home I decided on another solution. Due to an issue with the PO that Jay had to rectify for me, I ended up with a spare upper poly piece, so I simply cut a piece that was 15mm longer than the lower piece Jay supplied and used that, this means that i didn't need to shorten the centre and the bolt still has the same depth of thread to tighten into. I can't see an issue with doing it this way but if anyone thinks it'll cause me a problem please let me know why :)

 

Mount with original size poly then with the new longer piece and finally reassembled

 

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Trial fitted the poly front mount too, going to attack the front crossmember with the grinder and wire brush then paint it, more for protection than looks ;)

 

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Thats all for now!

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Hey mate, by cutting the rear poly bush down, is that essentially lowering the engine position in the bay? I ask as I want to make a little more clearance between the charger I've just installed and the bonnet. Would this do the job?

 

Cheers

 

Ron

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Hey mate, by cutting the rear poly bush down, is that essentially lowering the engine position in the bay? I ask as I want to make a little more clearance between the charger I've just installed and the bonnet. Would this do the job?

 

Cheers

 

Ron

 

Hi Ron,

 

Yes mate, obviously a 15 mm drop at the rear mount is going to decrease the closer you get to the front mount, so taking 15mm off the rear might only get you an extra 5mm at the charger, if that makes sense?

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Oh and my insurance renewal was due recently, phoned around and got a few quotes, then phoned my current insurer Brentacre, they managed to get me a quote that was only about £160 more than last year, thats with a cap of 280bhp so takes into account the remap from SWICT too!

 

This made me smile but I should probably ring them and get them to amend the CC slightly lol

 

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