Dox 23 Posted March 4, 2014 Could the debris have come from the oil cooler? Is it steel (try to pick it up with a magnet) / cast iron, alloy or white metal (big ends / mains) - Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Roger Chatfield 0 Posted March 4, 2014 It sticks to a magnet and is like tin foil, really thin. Rog. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Kevin Bacon 5 Posted March 7, 2014 The old tensioner remnants just hang around in the sump unfortunately. Bottom tensioner is plastic and never fails as it doesn't have anything like the same load on it as the upper one. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Roger Chatfield 0 Posted March 7, 2014 Sorry guys, I got that wrong, I thought the debris was ferrous as it was sticking to my screwdriver but it was just the coating of oil that was allowing it to stick, I rechecked it and in fact it's non ferrous, it's the same material as the big end shell lining.. At least I have finally found out what was wrong, new shells and we should be good to go. Rog. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
mic_VR 3 Posted March 7, 2014 That'll be that then. You going to try replacing in situ? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Kevin Bacon 5 Posted March 7, 2014 Hopefully the bearing didn't wear down to the steel but the shredded shards have come from metal on metal contact, i.e. no oil. Does the crank journal look blue? Hopefully you caught it just in time. A plastigauge will confirm if the bearing tolerances are still within spec. They can all be done in situ but you'll have to rotate the crank a few times to get at them all, so I would remove the plugs to make life a bit easier. Good luck! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Roger Blassberg 0 Posted March 7, 2014 A problem will arise if the main bearings are damaged or if the crankshaft itself has been scored; then you'll have to get the crankshaft out. I am being pessimistic I know, but how are you going to be sure that you have cleared all the swarf out of the lubrication system without jetting all the galleries and drillings? I'll bet that you oil filter bowl is a glittery sight!! RB Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Roger Chatfield 0 Posted March 7, 2014 (edited) So far I've only done no 6, the crank looks totally undamaged so I'm hoping for the best, this wasn't the classic knock knock sound you usually get with big ends more of a rattle hence why I didn't go for the big ends straight away, hopefully I've caught it nice and early but I guess only time will tell. All the metal I've removed from the sump, oil strainer and filter bowl has been non ferrous so I guess I've not started to grind any steel yet. I assume the debris has all come from the big ends so would have just fallen in the sump, then picked up by the pump and stopped from going ant further by the filter, I can see no other debris anywhere else on the engine and the external oil cooler was clear, in fact the valve gear actually looks really clean, not what you would expect on a 138,000 mile engine so I think I'll be alright. (fingers crossed) Just ordered the shells from VW, £86.52 with a bit of CCGB discount... quite pleased with that price. Rog. Edited March 7, 2014 by Roger Chatfield Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Kevin Bacon 5 Posted March 7, 2014 I think your noise was subtle because only 1 or 2 bearings are dead. If all 6 bearings were shot you'd definitely hear it :D If all looks OK, I would just throw it back together and cross your fingers! As Roger says, if the motor has to come out, that would be a good time to check the mains and all the oil galleries etc. Anyway, onwards and upwards. I'm surprised how cheap the bearings were! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Roger Chatfield 0 Posted March 7, 2014 Kev, if only one or two are dead would you advise changing them all anyway or just leave the good ones in place. Rog. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Sean_Jaymo 0 Posted March 7, 2014 I think the phrase is, in for a penny, in for a pound! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Kevin Bacon 5 Posted March 7, 2014 Absolutely! Bung them all in :) Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Roger Chatfield 0 Posted March 7, 2014 (edited) Just waiting for the shells to arrive so thought I'd have a little poke round. This is the no6 big end (crank), looks ok to me, there is some light scratching but not deep, I can't feel it with my finger nail. And this is the cap from no6 main bearing, a little bit of wear but not bad for a 139,000 mile engine, I'm happy with it, who do you guys think? Rog. Edited March 7, 2014 by Roger Chatfield Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Kevin Bacon 5 Posted March 7, 2014 Yeah they look OK. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Roger Chatfield 0 Posted March 7, 2014 Just checked the Bentley manual for the torque settings... it says only use new big end bolts... another 50 sheets, local stealer loves me today. Rog. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
robrado974 1 Posted March 7, 2014 If you come to mine right now and fit the head unit , I'm going to tell your mrs ! Lol Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
robrado974 1 Posted March 7, 2014 If you come to mine right now and fit the head unit , I'm going to tell your mrs ! Lol . You know how much she loves you spending on the C . Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Roger Chatfield 0 Posted March 7, 2014 On my way, put the kettle on...lol Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Kevin Bacon 5 Posted March 7, 2014 Just checked the Bentley manual for the torque settings... it says only use new big end bolts... another 50 sheets, local stealer loves me today. 5 brown sheets isn't so bad. Cheaper than ARPs after all then. It's really not a good idea reusing stretch bolts. You can get away with it on some suspension bolts, but with a crank spinning round at 7000rpm, not worth the risk for the sake of 50 quid imo! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Roger Chatfield 0 Posted March 16, 2014 Update... Well after a few drama's I managed to change the big end shells and the hydraulic lifters (tappets). Fill it full of oil and took it for a drive. Chuffed to bits with it, no more rattle and oil pressure is good, I also changed the oil temp sender and the 'seen' oil temp is now lower, max I've seen at idle is 112, far better than the 124 I has before. Only bad thing is my ticking noise when cold, I thought the lifters would cure that but it's still the same, I guess I might have a bit of piston slap. Rog. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
robrado974 1 Posted March 16, 2014 Well done Rog , does the ticking not go away when warm ? Rob Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
clumpy1 11 Posted March 16, 2014 Is your timing Spot on? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Roger Chatfield 0 Posted March 16, 2014 As far as I know the timing is bang on, I made myself a cam locking tool and the bottom end was at TDC. Rob, the ticking disappears after about 10 mins, once warm it purrs like a pussy cat. Rog. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
robrado974 1 Posted March 16, 2014 I think it's just the oil reaching the cam mate , hydraulic tappets . Mines only done 50 k , but sometimes sounds tappety when you start it , the same as yours , but then is very quiet . Other times I can start it and it's quiet from start up . Rob Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Supercharged 2 Posted March 16, 2014 Might be worth trying a different oil next time like Silkolene - noise might go away... Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
