clutch advice

[sexybourbon 0]

Basically either im gettin a lazy foot or my clutch is starting to go

 

It only slips if im slow of the clutch and under normal load it does grip but its the second or third time its slipped now and the biting point is high up at the top so im assuming its about dead ! Cars or 115,000 miles

 

What clutch is best to stick in , its slightly modified with shrick and im planning cams and a remap so its not going to be mega power , is it worth putting in a fast road clutch or just a standard one , wich one ?

 

Cheers in advance

[n3p 3]

Standard mate

[kerrly 0]

My bro killed the clutch in his modified VR6 the other day as a result of the crank seal dying so when you get your clutch replaced it is VERY worthwhile having the seal replaced at the same time.

 

He went for a Sachs clutch and so far it is a significant improvement, oh an his VR runs over 220hp...

[mic_VR 3]

Standard will be fine mate. Get the car into 5th doing about 35 and floor it, you'll soon see if it's slipping.

[mic_VR 3]

Ooh and check the clutch release bearing whilst you're at it.

[kerrly 0]

Ooh and check the clutch release bearing whilst you're at it.

 

Definitely this. Only a fool would not replace the release bearing.

 

If you're feeling flush and can afford to have the car off the road a few days get a machine shop to lighten an balance the flywheel!!!

[sexybourbon 0]

Ooops forgot all about this sorry guys , thanks for the advice , hopefully the car will be cammed and mapped next year and with the mannifold i was hoping for around 220

 

Car does get "used" so didnt know if it was worth upgrading to something what could take a bit more stick

 

Ill make sure to replace the full lot , im hoping it will hold out until i can afford to drop a 3.68 final drive in there at the same time

[vw rule 19]

Hello there,

 

you normally always get all 3 items when you purchase a new clutch kit.

Basically one of each as below.

 

1) release bearing.

2) clutch pressure plate.

3) clutch assembly.

 

A good and quick way to test your clutches condition, is to have your car stationary i.e parked up on your drive.

Simply have the handbrake on and start the engine up, then press the clutch in & select 4th or 5th gear,

then raise the clutch pedal until you feel the biting ponit, once the pedal is right up the car's engine should stall if clutch is still ok,

or engine won't stall and you'll be able to rev the engine with it still in gear, which means the clutch is on the way out.

 

Once your gearbox is out this will be the perfect time to replace / check the following.

 

1) flywheel contact surface.

2) ring gear.

3) starter motor.

4) diff oil seals.

5) input shaft oil seal.

6) rear main oil seal.

7) if VR6 check timing chains,

and chain housing covers.

8) if 4 cyl eng, check small core plug on back of block, you only see this once gearbox is dropped out.

9) sump gasket for oil weeping.

 

 

Hope this helps.

 

Si

[MarkFoster 0]

I had an LUK clutch fitted to my standard(ish) Rado and I've been quite impressed with it's smoothness and bite; no sign of judder which I understand can be a problem with many replacement clutches...

[Kevin Bacon 5]

Clutches are hit and miss on the VR6. Sometimes they judder (irrespective of brand / source) and sometimes they don't.

 

During my battle of the clutch many moons ago, I had a new VW flywheel fitted as well as a new VW clutch and it still bl00dy juddered. It seems that what ever secret blend of herbs and spices VW sprinkled onto their factory fitted clutches, just cannot be found anywhere else!

 

One thing's for sure, at 115,000 it's well and truly past it. It may not be slipping all the time, but past half worn, the pedal gets very heavy and the bite point gets higher and higher. Wearing clutches and suspension is like getting fat. You don't notice it happening until one day, someone calls you a fat git :)

 

FWIW, Valeo clutches seem to give the fewest juddering issues.

[davidwort 0]

I'd imagine the cleanliness of the factory assembly lines has something to do with this, it's bloody annoying though when everything seems fine and spotless and yet you get judder and when you throw one together it runs fine :)

Still, I'd rather suffer a bit of judder now and then than have a dual-mass flywheel in there!

[Kevin Bacon 5]

Even more annoyingly, the clutch is dead smooth for a few weeks, and then it starts juddering :lol:

 

DMFs have to be the biggest con ever. LUK have cornered the market, so no matter what make of car or how small it is, you always have to pay LUK shed loads of money for a DMF. Car manufacturers must have been hoodwinked by LUK somehow as the old fashioned SMF + sprung clutch disc worked perfectly fine for many years.

[seanl82 23]

DMFs. :censored::bad-words::mad2:

[sexybourbon 0]

Thanks fellas ill jepp all this in mind when making a purchase , and glad you have told me about the judder !! Mine seems ok although there is sometimes a light squeely sound when i set off in first

 

Kev i agree with you about fat thing lol , i do know its on its way but to be honest i must have just got used to it and automatically adapted to how high it bites !

Well test it properly at weekend and see if its dead

[Roger Blassberg 0]

Also check the release arm as well as the bearing itself. It could be cracked and/or distorted.

 

Best wishes from sunny Azerbaijan

 

RB

[MarkFoster 0]

.....Best wishes from sunny Azerbaijan

 

Show off...!

[Kevin Bacon 5]

Thanks fellas ill jepp all this in mind when making a purchase , and glad you have told me about the judder !! Mine seems ok although there is sometimes a light squeely sound when i set off in first

 

Kev i agree with you about fat thing lol , i do know its on its way but to be honest i must have just got used to it and automatically adapted to how high it bites !

Well test it properly at weekend and see if its dead

 

A new clutch is a revelation after getting used to a heavy knackered one! Like losing 2 stone over night :lol:

 

Suspension is the same. Dampers start wearing out and you adapt to it automatically. Re-suspensioned Corrados feel awesome. Like going from rough to buff over night :lol:

 

Good point about the release bearing actuator arm, they can start to bend as the clutch gets heavier.