What coolant and bleeding tips please

[Roger Chatfield 0]

Evening all.

 

I've that the cooling system to pieces due to a cracked crack pipe, also got a new rad fitted.

So tomorrow is coolant day, what coolant I need? I've read somewhere that G2 is the correct stuff.

Also, any tips on bleeding the system.

 

Rog.

[Jon_vr6 1]

G13 plus i think is the newest one mate as for bleeding ive always updone the header tank cap and taken the top rad hose off and then filled with coolant via the top rad rubber hose until you start to see coolant in the header tank. Once you see coolant in there then put the top rad hose back on the radiator and put the clip on, then top up the rest from header tank. This stops any air locks happening.

 

Then all i do is start the engine with the header tank cap off up to about 70deg then put the cap on and run upto fans coming, turn off the car let it cool and then top up the header to middle of min and max.

 

Always check for leaks as your going along as well

Edited August 20, 2014 by Jon_vr6

[delfinis38 1]

G13 plus i think is the newest one mate as for bleeding ive always updone the header tank cap and taken the top rad hose off and then filled with coolant via the top hose until you start to see coolant in the header tank. Once you see coolant in there then put the top rad hose back on the radiator and put the clip on, then top up the rest from header tank. This stops any air locks happening.

 

Then all i do is start the engine with the header tank cap off up to about 70deg then put the cap on and run upto fans coming, turn off the car let it cool and then top up the header to middle of min and max.

 

Always check for leaks as your going along as well

 

Agree... G13 from stealers you need two bottles.

[Jamie 1]

G13 plus i think is the newest one mate as for bleeding ive always updone the header tank cap and taken the top rad hose off and then filled with coolant via the top rad rubber hose until you start to see coolant in the header tank. Once you see coolant in there then put the top rad hose back on the radiator and put the clip on, then top up the rest from header tank. This stops any air locks happening.

 

Then all i do is start the engine with the header tank cap off up to about 70deg then put the cap on and run upto fans coming, turn off the car let it cool and then top up the header to middle of min and max.

 

Always check for leaks as your going along as well

 

Exactly this :)

[Roger Chatfield 0]

What's the total capacity fellas?

 

I assume you mix the G13 with water and not chuck it in neat.

 

Rog.

[Jim 2]

The instructions on mix ratio's are on the bottle!

[Harrier 1]

I always use distilled water too Rog. Not essential but i live in a hard water area & it's better than the chalky/limey tap water.

[seanl82 23]

Around 8 litres Rog, although you'll never get it all out unless changing matrix and everything else. As said, two 1.5 litre bottles and top up with water. Water in Guzz is **** hot so tap water should be fine.

[delfinis38 1]

The instructions on mix ratio's are on the bottle!

 

not the G13 concentrate stuff from the stealers.....

 

I marked up an old container and worked the mix out before filling.

[g0ldf1ng3r 15]

I always use distilled water too Rog. Not essential but i live in a hard water area & it's better than the chalky/limey tap water.

 

good advice, especially with a new rad fitted & its pennies really

[Jim 2]

not the G13 concentrate stuff from the stealers.....

 

I marked up an old container and worked the mix out before filling.

 

Really? It always used to be on there.. the label on the rear opens up and has a load of information on it, including what percentage ratio of coolant to water to use depending on the climate / conditions you live it. I'm really surprised they've dumped that.

[Supercharged 2]

I'm sure it's on there too but they have recently changed it again - there is now a new G13 (as opposed to old G13)

 

G013A8JM1

[Roger Chatfield 0]

They still have the ratio's on the back, just need to peel back the rear label, it even has pictures for thickies like me....lol

 

Stormy is all full of coolant now, one little weep of coolant on the top rad elbow so just waiting for a new o ring from heritage before I give it a full test.

 

Btw, how expensive is G13, £11 a tub... Ouch..

 

Thanks for all the tips guys.

 

Rog.

[Roger Chatfield 0]

Top rad pipe seal turned up today so took it for a little test drive.

 

80mph cruise, oil 110-114, the highest it got was 114, water temp was 80-85

Town driving and B road bashing, oil 110-112, water 80-90

Idle, oil 110, water 88-90, fan cuts in at 90.

 

Seems to be a hell of a lot better, what do the collective think??

 

Rog.

[Jon_vr6 1]

Coolants about right but oil is a bit hot what temps were you getting before

[robrado974 1]

The oil temps were a lot higher before Jon . Me and Robbier R32 went for a drive last week , bit of a bashing on the A38 , the highest I got was 102 on the oil reading .

[fla 9]

Seems ok. What oil are you using?

I saw this thread a bit late but I would have suggested doing a system flush by opening the drain and putting a hosepipe in the header tank. Once the water runs clear, close the drain and refill. Then add the vw coolant cleaner (orange liquid) run the car for about 10 miles, drain refill with water, drain and then refill with 60/40 deionised water to coolant.

[Roger Chatfield 0]

I have mate, think I mentioned it in my cracked crack pipe thread, basically I've flushed the whole system, cleaned and flushed the OE oil cooler, fitted a new rad (old one was gunked up) and deleted my mocal oil cooler and it's now running a good 10-20 degrees cooler.

 

Rog.

[Thursdave 10]

G13 is the newest VWAG coolant. It's pretty much the same as G12, G12+ and G12++, but formulated to be nice to the newer aluminium blocks that are coming through the range now.

 

Rule of thumb: if it's diluteable/concentrated, there WILL be a dilution ratio somewhere on there. On G13 coolant, you have to peel one of the front stickers away - there's a second layer of sticker behind it with additional instructions in myriad languages and dilution ratios.

 

On the screenwash, it's the same.

 

Future reference: 1.5L of G13 coolant = G 013 A8J M1 part number. Available at any VWAG dealer (Audi, Seat, Skoda, VW or VW Vans), or TPS centre.

 

Sadly 1.5L is the only one you'll probably buy - you can get it in 60L drums (or 208L Barrels) but despite asking VW wont/don't make a 5L can.

 

(Source: I'm parts manager for a SEAT Garage ;) )

[Roger Chatfield 0]

 

(Source: I'm parts manager for a SEAT Garage ;) )

 

Are you now... that's interesting to know, so out of interest what sort of price can you G13 for?? I paid £11 at VW for 1.5 ltr.

 

Rog.

[Thursdave 10]

There's not that much profit in G13, to be honest. I'll have a look when I'm back in work on Tuesday.

 

£11 sounds right for retail prices.

[Thursdave 10]

Managed to have a look. I could sell 1.5 litres of G13 for £8.50 including vat, but its quite heavy so postage would be a fair bit.

 

I took some photos so you lot can see where the dilution ratios are. :)

 

Lovely G13.

And the back.

Oh, what's this?

Hazard warnings! In all the languages.

But whats under that 2?

Confirmed compatibility with G12++ and G12+.

 

 

And the dilution ratios.

 

Dave.

[Hassan. 10]

Afternoon guys,

 

Im looking to flush my coolant system out and Iv spoken to VW regarding this coolant flush they have, but the guys there seem to know nothing about it???

 

I was wondering if anybody had a picture or part number for it that will help me describe it any better?

 

Thanks

[Jim Bowen 1]

just waiting for a new o ring from heritage.

 

I have a box of these or very similar to these and i've used them on crack pipe and rad elbow with no problems.

 

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/419pc-O-RING-ORING-RUBBER-SEAL-PLUMBING-SET-KIT-/160551853082?pt=UK_DIY_Materials_Plumbing_MJ&hash=item2561a2dc1a

[Roger Chatfield 0]

Jim, personally I'd use the o rings you have, the 'proper' ring from Heritage wasn't quite thick enough and ended up leaking so I got a seal from our seal kit at work (same as your)

I think the problem I had is the fact that I have a pattern part rad so maybe the top opening is very slightly bigger, the seal from work was ideal.

 

That kit you linked to is a bargain, certainly a lot cheaper than one OE seal from heritage.

 

Rog.