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3 litre vr6 ??

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Has anyone got advice on boring a 2.9 to a 3.0 ? And how it will fare compared to a normal block ?

 

Id like to know what power can be had out of one over the standard block and if it would be worth it ! I know there was a guy on here who had a grey one i think who was hunting big power nasp for a while but searching on google doesent bring much up

 

Costs and power gains would be helpful along with any other parts id need , obvs pistons and rods and bolt kits adn such parts

 

This might be a bit of a pipe dream at the moment but it could also be running a supercharger along side that and the schrick depending on how the future holds out

 

Also if i was to go 3.0 would it be best to change the cams for something that would give a little more low down instead of the 268's

 

Go!

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Like iv said i could be running a charger already depending on what the future holds

 

As for the block the reason i want to know about 3.0 blocks is because if you have read my build at all iv just rebuilt the top end with various aftermarket parts , cams , schrick , big port throttles and the likes and a freshly built head ! Now after driving it and loving it im still getting the smokey after run i was before i put the new head on wich leads me to believe it could be bore related ( not had a pressure test done yet) but still if it is bores then finding a new block would be hard and i wouldnt want to use an old one with miles on it so my thinking is a 3.0 block that could be used to charge later on in its life

Iv already got good power na running a shorter box its to do with mainteinance aswell for the future

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Its was john munyard running the grey one chasing big na power. Can't remember what his user name was but someone will know.

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Search for VR6 BRM (Brian Rickets Motorsport or Berrington rd Motor services as they became known), or Scotts VR6.

 

Both offered big bore conversions when they were current models, from memory 100cc added 6bhp and 10 flbs or so.

 

I have Wiseco 3l pistons, but I believe they are available from JE and Wossner too

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im still getting the smokey after run i was before i put the new head on wich leads me to believe it could be bore related

 

Normally smoking on over run (throttle closed and high vacuum) is valve guide or there seals (oil is sucked past the guides and there seals), what make seals did you fit?

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Like iv said i could be running a charger already depending on what the future holds

 

As for the block the reason i want to know about 3.0 blocks is because if you have read my build at all iv just rebuilt the top end with various aftermarket parts , cams , schrick , big port throttles and the likes and a freshly built head ! Now after driving it and loving it im still getting the smokey after run i was before i put the new head on wich leads me to believe it could be bore related ( not had a pressure test done yet) but still if it is bores then finding a new block would be hard and i wouldnt want to use an old one with miles on it so my thinking is a 3.0 block that could be used to charge later on in its life

Iv already got good power na running a shorter box its to do with mainteinance aswell for the future

 

I stand corrected then - lol: - sorry I don't follow many of the build threads as I don't get the time. I would have personally done the block at the same time as the head having saved up. N/A is an expensive way to get extra performance out of a standard VR. Even VW only managed a few extra HP and some torque with the VSR variable intake. Best of luck with it.

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I've read a little about boring out and seems it is quite expensive for not a lot of gains. As said above, overrun suggests top end rather than bottom end. I didn't notice any smoke when I was following you a while ago, is it blue or black smoke?

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Thats the guy i remember now i think iv met him a few tomes actually

 

Not sure on the make of seals though that was put in the head as i bought it rebuilt from tomi on here , it produced good power so iv no reason to believe the work wasnt carried out and it was all new inside you could see the valves was brand new too

 

I think i might wait until i get back from hols and just ring stealth up again and ask there advice

 

 

Jamie the schrick and cams are great and the sound is brilliant it does pull really well too

If your gonna do them things though id spend an extra 500 quid and get stealth to do you a 3.68 final drive as that alone really makes the car sweet

Dont think id ever want a standard vr again it would feel lile a right pig

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I'm pretty sure you've already told me but refresh my memory about the advantages of a 3.68?

 

Also are you planning on keeping the 268s with a supercharger? Might be wrong but I'm sure I've read somewhere they don't work well with chargers...?

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Basically jamie its a shorter drive in the box so it pick up quicker its hard to explain but mine would spin up 1st and a bit of second in the dry where as a normal vr wouldnt , not sure yet about all the other bits tbh iv not even starded collecting any bits ! It will be a slow one anyway unless i win the lottery !!

 

Cheers chris will bear that in mind if i do go 3.0

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Basically jamie its a shorter drive in the box so it pick up quicker its hard to explain but mine would spin up 1st and a bit of second in the dry where as a normal vr wouldnt , not sure yet about all the other bits tbh iv not even starded collecting any bits ! It will be a slow one anyway unless i win the lottery !!

 

Cheers chris will bear that in mind if i do go 3.0

 

So it's for doing wheelspins to attract girls?

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First gear is to shock and woo you

 

Second gear is to make you feel dissapointed

 

Third gear is so you can watch as i dissapear

 

Neutral is where i impress the girls haha

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+1 on the 3.68 final drive. Add a turbo to it and it's brutal. You can really feel the difference, between a standard geared VRT and a 3.68'd VRT.

 

Wouldn't worry about a 3.0 bore personally. You need 83.5mm pistons to get close enough to a true 3.0 but the gains are negligible, and the cylinder walls become a bit on the thin side. Better to play with longer stroke cranks, from the R32 maybe, but you'd need custom pistons to push the crowns below the deck again. Expensive!

 

I think the most I've heard about a n'asp VR6 making was around 250hp, and that was with an ABT crank to push the capacity out to 3.2, big valve head, cams etc etc. It would be way cheaper to drop an R32 in, but a 3.2 12V would have way more under bonnet kudos.

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First gear is to shock and woo you

 

Second gear is to make you feel dissapointed

 

Third gear is so you can watch as i dissapear

 

Neutral is where i impress the girls haha

 

Is this you pal?

 

B31A89DA-3BB0-4BA1-814A-5D16D9AB72D3.jpg

 

Kev I know you're not a fan of chargers these days but if you were, what are your thoughts on 268 cams with a charger?

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Cheers kev it wasnt really the chasing of big na power that was making me think of a cr6 just the fact that its had a new head and id put it still smoking down to bores maybe hence why i said about boring the block

Tbh id not taken in to account the walls being thinner and with the car most likely end up seeing boost im not sure id want to run boost with a machined block

 

I might just stick the charger on ther in the future and enjoy it and if the block does decide to go i will rebuild then !

 

To many expensive decisions :(

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