Poor idle and I've done everything! VR6

[dr_mat 0]

Similarly I find a bloody good long thrash will burn off all the nasties and the car will run much better, idle much more smoothly than with all the coking that builds up over short runs.

[John Blount 11]

I've tried it from stone cold this morning and there is a distinct difference, it's still "hunts" a bit and if you drive off straight away I think it would stall but there is a difference.

 

I will be trying some replacement bits such as MAF, ISV etc on Monday that are known to work so we will see what happens.

[Dox 22]

I've tried it from stone cold this morning and there is a distinct difference, it's still "hunts" a bit and if you drive off straight away I think it would stall but there is a difference.

 

I will be trying some replacement bits such as MAF, ISV etc on Monday that are known to work so we will see what happens.

 

Have you had the car scanned?

[John Blount 11]

Yeah, says the ISV is at fault but it's brand new because of the same fault with the old one.

[dr_mat 0]

That is pointing to the isv cabling or driver circuit in the ECU then, unfortunately.

 

However you would need to clear the error first if you haven't already done so..

[seanl82 23]

Just to close my issues here, I got a good second hand one (I'll get a new one when I don't have holiday spending money to think about in a week!), and its now spot on and tested on a couple of good runs. Not had chance to check on VCDS, although idle is rock solid and where it should be so don't envisage any problems. Many thanks to CazzaVR for great service on the replacement.

[John Blount 11]

Just to close my issues here, I got a good second hand one (I'll get a new one when I don't have holiday spending money to think about in a week!), and its now spot on and tested on a couple of good runs. Not had chance to check on VCDS, although idle is rock solid and where it should be so don't envisage any problems. Many thanks to CazzaVR for great service on the replacement.

 

Sorry Sean, good second hand one of what??

[seanl82 23]

ISV mate. The 2 I had were both duff, and the cheap new one I got was also faulty. I was lucky to have a fellow owner quite local, so borrowed his to ensure it was actually the ISV at fault, then bought a good used one which has cured my problem.

[John Blount 11]

I'm still having bother, I've changed my ISV (which was a brand new Bosch one)for one that is known to work and it's still the same!

 

Tried a replacement MAF and a replacement throttle body position sensor still no joy!

 

Did find though when the blue temp sensor was changed or another used one it made it worse, I did buy a new one but it was an aftermarket one so I've ordered a proper VW one from a dealer. Could it be that simple!! Let's hope so.

[seanl82 23]

Fingers crossed for you mate.

[jekel 10]

I'm still having bother, I've changed my ISV (which was a brand new Bosch one)for one that is known to work and it's still the same!

 

Tried a replacement MAF and a replacement throttle body position sensor still no joy!

 

Did find though when the blue temp sensor was changed or another used one it made it worse, I did buy a new one but it was an aftermarket one so I've ordered a proper VW one from a dealer. Could it be that simple!! Let's hope so.

 

Lost track a bit now of who's got what problem but my new VW lambda arrived now fitted and everything 100%, mpg also jumped from 19 to 30, don't think prob the same, but was dying at idle and generally not running 100%, old (only 2 years old at most) one was reading dead when got out. It was a Bosch one when looked, was from Europarts listed for VR6 Corrado 94, but totally different to one from VW, part numbers and the shape/design of exhaust end bit.

[seanl82 23]

Lost track a bit now of who's got what problem but my new VW lambda arrived now fitted and everything 100%, mpg also jumped from 19 to 30, don't think prob the same, but was dying at idle and generally not running 100%, old (only 2 years old at most) one was reading dead when got out. It was a Bosch one when looked, was from Europarts listed for VR6 Corrado 94, but totally different to one from VW, part numbers and the shape/design of exhaust end bit.

 

 

How much did that set you back if you don't mind me asking?

[John Blount 11]

Replaced the blue temp sensor for a genuine VW one and it's still exactly the same, poor idle and an error code blaming the ISV even though it's got a brand new Bosch one on and I've tried another known working one, still showing a fault!

 

Think it's time to change the ECU and see if that sorts it.

[jekel 10]

How much did that set you back if you don't mind me asking?

 

£108 from memory. MPG settled down to bout 28 now but I'm happy with that, Ive got a heavy right foot and it was doing 19 before and that's on a new engine, so it'll pay for itself pretty quick.

 

This might be of interest I had a new FPR from a 1.8 turbo had lying around, 4 bar, exactly same from outside and same fit as the one that came on car, 4 bar Bosch both of them, but the hole in middle much smaller on the turbo one, i put it in couple of weeks ago, just checking was'nt an fpr problem, car ran ok, but when put new lambda in and engine back to 100% definitely felt like not opening up fully, put Corrado fpr back in and perfect loads more power when opened up.

Mention this as on ebay etc. they list same fpr for 1.8 turbo, VR6 and basically anything that uses 4 bar, but looks like another one of those parts that should be VR6 or Corrado VR6 specific.

[seanl82 23]

Thats quite reasonable actually, I was expecting something like 2 or 3 times that!

 

Thanks bud. :thumbleft:

[dr_mat 0]

Replaced the blue temp sensor for a genuine VW one and it's still exactly the same, poor idle and an error code blaming the ISV even though it's got a brand new Bosch one on and I've tried another known working one, still showing a fault!

 

Think it's time to change the ECU and see if that sorts it.

 

If yours is a late VR6 the ECU is coded to the keys. (Code ending "CP"). Get the ECU checked and refurbished instead (unless you wanna swap the locks, or have it coded to your keys).

[John Blount 11]

If yours is a late VR6 the ECU is coded to the keys. (Code ending "CP"). Get the ECU checked and refurbished instead (unless you wanna swap the locks, or have it coded to your keys).

 

Yes my car is a late 95, where would be best to get the ECU refurbished that is reliable?

[dr_mat 0]

I knew you were going to ask that.. I'm not sure, have a dig on the forums. I just know it's not as simple as you might have hoped. :(

 

You could do worse than calling Stealth and asking.

[Jon_vr6 1]

Wouldnt it be easier getting a good used ECU then getting stealth to delete the key coding off it

[dr_mat 0]

Either way it needs coding, yes.

[John Blount 11]

Just an update really, still the same issues so I've hit a wall!! I've called Vince at Stealth and booked it in with him to have a look at on the 6th April to see if he can sort it.

 

Tell ya what though I'll be proper annoyed with myself if it's something simple.... Then again thinking about it I suppose I'd prefer that so let's hope I've missed something.

[Cressa 44]

It will be good for you to get it sorted, and for the rest of us to know what the problem was. Good luck

[John Blount 11]

Update so far. Vince at Stealth has had the car for 3 days and it's had him thinking a bit! Feel really quite guilty that it's causing this many problems.

 

Apparently the ECU has 4 modes of which modes 1 and 2 are mainly used along with 3 now and again, apparently mode 4 is almost like an emergency running mode of which mine is operating in all the time! The error code saying that the ISV is at fault is a bit of a false lead and must be treated with caution of which once you have discounted this like I have by replacing it with a new one and testing its operation in VCDS it still shows as a fault but why?

 

The fault relating to the ISV is quite vague and doesn't nesersarly mean it's the ISV that's at fault but that there is an issue somewhere that's causing a poor idle etc so this may be worth noting for all of you that have a similar problem and changing the ISV didn't sort it.

 

The blue ECU temp sensor was tested and was Ok but a new one was installed just to discount it but it made no difference. A replacement ECU was also tried but again no difference!!

 

Well it seems there is light at the end of the tunnel as Vince is quite confident he may well have found the issue.. OIL PUMP.

 

When cold the oil is thicker than when warm and this is creating poor compression until it warms up after a couple of minutes that's presumably why it runs Ok a few minutes in. Vince is getting me a new oil pump and gaskets etc and we will see. He's also replacing the front wheel bearings as there grumbling a bit so it's going to be an expensive week next week.

 

Just want to say though Vince at Stealth has been fantastic and to all of you that have wondered is it worth traveling to get to him I can honestly say it is as I've been to a couple of so called experts local to me and it turns out I know more than they do and that's saying something that is.

[John Blount 11]

Collected the car from Stealth this morning and from cold it started and ran perfectly :dance: who would have thought the oil pump would have caused this kind of issue!

 

Vince has fitted new front wheel bearings and re-aligned the tracking and camber and with the four new tyres I have just fitted plus the new coil overs the handling is just as good as the modern stuff, well impressed for a car that's 22 years old.

 

I drove it the 40 odd miles home and really enjoyed the drive, glad it's all sorted now though as to this point it's taken weeks and weeks to solve the issue. Just a body work and re-spray to do in June and its all sorted.

[Cressa 44]

Glad it's sorted and hopefully this may be useful for others in the future

 

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