1993 VR6 Radiator Info And Replacement proceedure.

[harrisvr6 0]

Are these bolts accessed from the top of that line of body (sort of where the headlights sit) or the bottom (where the bumper sits)?

The page before looks like it could be below, this looks like above. If below I might be ok.

Basically I cant get the headlights out due to the bolts you access through the top of the front body panel. These are rusted out and stripped. If these are attached to that front part of the body I'm assuming I should wangle out with the body section.

[harrisvr6 0]

See image attached.

[1xshaunx1 27]

Have you got the bumper off yet?

[harrisvr6 0]

I've taken the lower lip and indicators etc off. The fogs are corroded in so I was hoping to unclip those as the bumper pulls out, a little further up the cable. I've not touched the 4 main screws underneath holding the bumper on yet, although the bolts look pretty good. I don't want to commit that far unless I know for sure I'm going to be able to do the next step and get the rad changed. I don't have a drive, its just at the side if the road so I cant really leave it jacked up and in bits if I cant finish it off.

 

Do you think I can get the front body panel off with the rear headlight screw still in place?

[a_riot 0]

I've taken the lower lip and indicators etc off. The fogs are corroded in so I was hoping to unclip those as the bumper pulls out, a little further up the cable. I've not touched the 4 main screws underneath holding the bumper on yet, although the bolts look pretty good. I don't want to commit that far unless I know for sure I'm going to be able to do the next step and get the rad changed. I don't have a drive, its just at the side if the road so I cant really leave it jacked up and in bits if I cant finish it off.

 

Do you think I can get the front body panel off with the rear headlight screw still in place?

 

You can unplug the fogs and route their cables through the bumper holes so that they can come out with the bumper without getting caught on anything. I removed my headlights just so I didn't damage them, but you could leave them in as well. That rear screw is just a small Philips head screw, so if its as damaged as you say, it might just disintegrate upon removal. Can't really say without seeing it, but its just a small plastic speed nut that its screwed into so you can simply break them if needed, although its best not to obviously. I'm actually looking for the part number for those and can't find it so I don't know if they are still available.

 

You'll need to undo two small Philips screws on each side holding the wheel liner as well, since the front edge of the wheel liner sits in front of the rear of the bumper cover. You'll see where they are at the front inner section of the wheel liner. The bumper should slide out easily once the 4 main bolts are removed as well as the 5 screws holding the spoiler to the reinforcement plate and cross member from below. As long as nothing hangs things up, the bumper should slide out and can be put aside. Don't forget about the weather temp sensor as well, if you still have one in the grill area.

 

The radiator support has sheet metal screws that bolt it to the body, 14 of them I think. Keep track of which hole you get which screw, as they are not all the same, at least mine weren't. The worst one is the inside one by the AC line by the battery, the rest are accessible. I left my hood release attached since I didn't want to try adjusting it again, and lifted the radiator support onto the engine out of the way making sure not to crimp the bowden cable.

 

I'd recommend changing the oil cooler seals which it appears you have obtained, the oil filter housing seal (spectacles seal) and checking the oil cooler hoses. You might change the oil cooler as well, as they can leak oil on occasion, usually a few days after its all back together :), and its no fun to change with everything assembled, in fact I wouldn't recommend it. Its easy with the fan shroud and radiator out of the way though.

 

Think about changing any oil filter housing sensors too as they are easy at that point, and cheap. Also check out the grounding bar right below the alternator that's bolted to the intake manifold and make sure its still intact and wiring is good.

 

Get new radiator rubber support bushes, as they are usually broken and are cheap. The plastic guide rings between the fans and the fan belt may also be broken. I didn't bother replacing the upper rad elbow or its o-ring as its easy to do and mine still looked good. If you feel brave and want to mess with the water pipe, now would be the time, as well as changing the thermostat. I put on new oil cooler hoses, and the nipple didn't break off the pipe when I removed it, so I left the water pipe alone.

 

I had to replace my radiator after only a year thanks to the tech who installed it. He dropped a piece of metal into the bottom corner of the fan shroud, so when he screwed the shroud into the rad, one corner wouldn't screw down all the way and it warped the radiator causing an early failure when it started leaking at the plastic end cap. They do bend rather easily so don't put any force on the new radiator and try and force it into position. I treated my new rad with kid gloves and got it nice and square so it should last for another couple of decades. I got a German made unit from AKG.

[harrisvr6 0]

Done it today, to be honest it wasn't half as bad as I was expecting, I was bricking it! I want to thank you all for the help, it truly helped. There was a few issues but I expected this.

 

There is a plastic air director on the drives side that directs air into the rad, well it has this rubber trim bit which sits against the grill I think. It disintergrated when I took that bit off, I hope its not essential. The other side didn't have it at all, but I think it might be like that.

 

The oil cooler was ok to do. I would say shimmy the hose clips up the hose while it is still attached to the engine though. I was quite carefull as I didn't want to damage the crackpipe and thermostat. The square profiled o ring looked compressed and had a sort if lip onit where it had compressed over time, I guess this was where it was leaking from.

 

The radiator looked horrendous, I'm glad its changed, there wasnt hardly any fins remaining. And the new one has twice as many. The fans housing will probably need replacing soon as its starting to rust, there was a few bolts missing here attaching it to the radiator also . All went back ok though.

 

When I put the main front back on one of the bolts was threaded, I was carefull to lay them out so the right one went in the right hole. Can I swap this with a nut and bolt? I think it was one of two on the side under the lights.

 

 

Unavoidable problem now though, because I had removed the battery for space, and I have lost my alarm fob, I cant unset the alarm because it defaulted to on when I reconnected the battery, haha.

I had lost the fob and had the alarm set to off and was using the key for the doors and the immobiliser to drive it. I do need to get that fixed though so i will probably get someone else to look at the end of the month. I had been postponing this...

 

Also I think I mixed a few of the wires up so will need to have a refiddle at that when I have sorted the alarm out.

[1xshaunx1 27]

Seems a bit much before you start I agree. But soon starts falling apart once you get stuck in as you said. Sense of accomplishment with the radiator replaced and a kick in the crotch from the alarm. I feel your pain. My suspension swap has ground to halt this weekend due to non original items found half way through, there’s always something to slow you down. But you win, new alarms aren’t cheap.

I Had a Clifford fitted before Christmas.

Having or fitting a new alarm can also open up a new can of worms as you delve into territory some one with total incompetence may have been there before. When mine was in I was talking to the owner about older cars and he said the worse he’d come across was a R S Turbo, the owner of the car booked it in to have an alarm fitted because it didn’t have one. When they opened it up to start they found 4 old alarms still wired in and chopped here and there.

I’d get a good professional, respected auto electrical or stereo/alarm firm to sort it, last thing you need in Corrado ownership is electrical problems.

Good luck matey

[harrisvr6 0]

Cheers man.

I was thinking of getting trimwizard to fit one as he seems to have a lot of good reviews on here.

Just out of curiosity, what sort of ball park am I looking at for a new alarm? I dont really need anything fancy, a fob to lock the doors & make windows go up, and a new immobilizer inside to drive away.

 

It probably is already a bit of a state to sort out as the breakdown bloke bypassed the alarm to get me home when I lost the fob. I think he ran a wire from the ignition to the starter motor.

[1xshaunx1 27]

How long is a piece of string. Should imagine you are looking at £100-£200 for the alarm, £200 being a base Clifford or similar and £100-£200+ for fitting depending on issues.

where are you based

[Dox 23]

Who pays attention to alarms? No one. The only people they inconvenience are the owners.

[1xshaunx1 27]

Yes but it’s nice to press a button and not have to mess with a key. You can also hook the alarm up to a tracker and if it goes off they ring you and you go check or if it’s moving and shouldn’t be the police go and check. Good and not so good points with everything you buy. I think it’s also worth noting when considering an alarm, it should be in keeping the value of the car. There’s no point spending £1k alarming a car worth £2k.

Thieving older cars for parts is on the up easier than ringing cars. I sleep better knowing I have some security on mine.

Horses for course I suppose.

[seanl82 23]

A toad ai606 can be had for 250 fitted, and they have excellent reviews. My carhad remnants from 3 old alarms actually. The working was dangerous and if even a single one of those were fitted by a pro, they should be ashamed! I replaced the entire looks in the end for one that had only had a single alarm fitted previously due to the state of it. Twisted wire, phase tape and scotch locks are not sufficient imo. A roper soldered joint which necessitates cutting the loom in order to fit heat shrink is the only way to ensure a safe and secure joint.

[Cressa 44]

I'll second all of that. Toad ai606 is definitely a great Alarm that you wouldn't be disappointed with

 

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[Jim Bowen 1]

I've removed my alarm and fob locking, just fitted a Clifford sticker in its place :lol: